Driveways and Patios in Bournemouth
Block paving, resin bound, tarmac and gravel driveways, with the patio at the back if you want it, laid across Bournemouth from our base in Boscombe. Dug out, based and drained properly.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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Driveways & patios in Bournemouth
Block Paving, Resin, Tarmac and Gravel Driveways in Bournemouth
Bournemouth Roofing & Building lays block paving, resin bound, tarmac and gravel driveways, and the patio to go with them, across Bournemouth. Every drive is dug out to firm ground, built on a compacted sub-base and drained so the rain stays on your plot. Thomas Hannen visits, measures up and gives you a free written itemised quote.
The drive has sunk in the wheel tracks and holds a puddle by the gate. The concrete down the side of the house has cracked along every bay. The forecourt in front of a converted house has potholed where cars turn. Or the front garden is about to become parking, and you want it built so BCP Council will drop the kerb. In every one of those, the answer starts underneath: the dig, the base and where the water goes.
The bit you see is the last thing we lay
A driveway that sinks, ruts or ponds has almost never failed at the surface. It has failed underneath it.
So that is where the work goes. We dig out to a firm formation, put a geotextile membrane down, build and compact a proper sub-base for the loading it will take, set the falls so water runs where it is supposed to, and hold the edges with restraints on a concrete haunch that will not move. Only then does the surface go on. It is the least interesting part of the quote and the part that decides whether the drive still looks right in ten years.
- Excavation, muck-away and disposal included and itemised
- Falls and drainage designed in, not left to chance
- Kerb position checked against BCP's dropped kerb rules at the survey
Already know the surface you want? Each one has its own page:
What we lay
Driveway and Patio Services in Bournemouth
Five surfaces cover nearly every drive and patio in Bournemouth: block paving, resin bound, tarmac, gravel and slab paving. Each goes on the same foundation of excavation, membrane, compacted sub-base and edge restraints, and each suits a different house, budget and amount of upkeep. New drives, replacements, resurfacing and repairs are all covered.
Block paving
Blocks are laid on a screeded sharp sand bed over the sub-base, cut in at the edges, then compacted and jointed with kiln dried sand so they lock together. Any colour, size or laying pattern, with a contrast border or curve where the shape of the drive calls for it. Herringbone is the pattern to pick where cars turn, because it spreads the load.
Permeable blocks on an open graded stone base let rain go straight down through the joints. The build, the patterns and the permeable option are covered in full on block paving in Bournemouth.
Resin driveways
Resin bound is stone and resin mixed together and trowelled out over a sound base, giving a smooth finish with no joints that water drains through. Resin bonded, where loose stone is scattered onto a resin coat, is a different product, and it is not permeable.
Resin needs dry weather and a base that will not move. It can go over a sound tarmac or concrete drive, and resin driveways explains when an overlay works and when the old drive has to come out.
Tarmac driveways
Tarmac, or asphalt, goes down hot over a compacted base and is rolled while it is still workable. Quick to lay, strong under heavy use and good value over a long drive, a parking area or a commercial yard. A block or kerb edge holds it and gives it a tidy line.
Standard tarmac is sealed, so the water needs a route off it. Porous asphalt is the permeable version. New drives, overlays and repairs are set out on tarmac driveways.
Gravel driveways
Gravel is the simplest permeable drive: a dug and compacted base, a membrane to stop weeds coming up, then a gravel grid or a firm edge so the stones do not migrate and rut. It is usually the least costly surface to lay, and the crunch underfoot tells you when someone is at the door.
In Bournemouth, BCP Council wants a retaining strip of at least 1 metre across the full width of a gravel drive's entrance, in block paving, concrete, tarmac or a gravel grid, so stones stay off the pavement. Any gravel quote should include it.
Forecourts and shared parking
Many of Bournemouth's large Victorian and Edwardian houses are now flats, with a forecourt where several cars turn on the same few metres. That grinds a hollow, water stands in it, the base softens and the potholes follow.
A forecourt needs a heavier build than a private drive: a deeper dig, a geotextile membrane, a thicker sub-base across the whole area, and a surface that copes with wheels turning on it. Heavy duty block in herringbone and hot laid tarmac both do. Resin does not like tight turning, and we will tell you so before you buy it.
Patios with the drive
Porcelain, natural stone or concrete slabs on a full mortar bed, set well below the damp proof course with the fall running away from the house. Steps, edging and level changes as the garden needs.
In a short back garden the patio can end up too close to the damp proof course, with the fall running back to the door. The fix is to drop the level or step down, and run a channel drain at the threshold. Slabs, falls and jointing are covered on patios.
Honest comparison
Which Driveway Surface Lasts Longest, and Which Suits You?
A driveway lasts as long as the base under it, whichever surface goes on top. On a properly dug and compacted sub-base, block paving and tarmac both give long service and repair in place, resin lasts when the resin is UV-stable and the base never moves, concrete lasts but cracks without movement joints, and gravel just needs raking and topping up.
Block paving
Look. The most choice. Colours, sizes, laying patterns, borders and curves, and it suits traditional and modern houses alike.
Durability. Very good, and it flexes with small ground movement instead of cracking. Individual blocks can be lifted and swapped if one sinks or gets oil-stained.
Maintenance. The most of the paved surfaces. Jointing sand needs topping up, and joints will grow weeds and moss if the surface is left dirty.
Drainage. Permeable block systems are the easiest way to build a paved drive that drains through the surface into the ground.
Resin bound
Look. Clean and modern. A continuous surface with no joints and no pattern lines, in whatever aggregate colour you pick.
Durability. Good on a sound base, and it does not rut like tarmac in hot weather. Pick a UV-stable resin, or the colour darkens in the sun. It is only ever as strong as what it is laid on.
Maintenance. The lowest day to day. Nothing for weeds to root into. Repairs are a patch, not a swap, and a patch can show.
Drainage. Resin bound can be laid as a permeable surface, so water passes through it and into the build-up below.
Tarmac
Look. Plain black, and it works best when it is edged with block or kerb. Not a decorative finish, but a very tidy one.
Durability. Tough and well suited to larger areas and heavier use. It can soften in real heat and it will scuff where a car turns on the spot.
Maintenance. Low. No joints to weed. It can be resurfaced later without a full rebuild if the base is still sound.
Drainage. Standard tarmac is sealed, so run-off has to go to a soakaway or a soft area within your own boundary. Porous asphalt is the permeable option.
Gravel
Look. Loose stone in a range of colours. Soft and traditional, and it suits period houses and long drives.
Durability. Fine for cars on a proper base with a grid. Without one it ruts, spreads and ends up on the pavement.
Maintenance. Rake it level, top it up now and then, and keep leaves off it. Harder going for buggies, wheelchairs and heels.
Drainage. Permeable by nature. In BCP, the entrance needs a 1 metre retaining strip so stones stay off the road.
Concrete
Look. Plain brushed concrete, or pattern imprinted to look like stone or setts. Uniform, and very hard.
Durability. Strong, but it cracks if it is laid without movement joints or over a poor base, and a crack cannot be hidden.
Maintenance. Low day to day. Oil stains show, and an imprinted finish needs resealing to keep its colour.
Drainage. Sealed. BCP Council says a concrete drive needs a drain on your property so no water reaches the highway.
Slab paving
Look. The widest range of finishes. Porcelain gives a crisp, uniform look, natural stone gives variation and character.
Durability. Porcelain is dense, frost-resistant and resists staining. Natural stone is hard-wearing but more porous, so it weathers and can mark.
Maintenance. Sweeping and an occasional wash. Porcelain stays looking new with very little effort. Pointing needs to be kept sound on any slab patio.
Drainage. Slabs are laid to a fall away from the house, with the surface water taken to a border, a gully or a channel drain.
| Surface | Block paving | Resin bound | Tarmac | Gravel | Concrete | Patio paving |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Look | Widest choice of colour, size, pattern and border | Continuous, no joints, no pattern lines | Plain black, best when edged in block or kerb | Loose stone, soft and traditional | Plain or pattern imprinted, uniform | Porcelain for a crisp look, stone for character |
| Joints | Sand-filled joints throughout | None | None | None, loose surface | Movement joints only | Pointed or jointed to suit the material |
| Upkeep | The most. Top up the jointing sand and keep it swept | The least. Nothing for weeds to root into | Low. No joints to weed | Rake and top up | Low. Reseal an imprinted finish | Sweep and wash. Keep the pointing sound |
| Repairs | Lift and replace individual blocks | Patched, and a patch can show | Resurface if the base is still sound | Rake, regrade and top up | Cut out and patch, and the patch shows | Lift and relay individual slabs |
| Permeable option | Yes, permeable block systems | Yes, laid as a permeable build-up | Standard tarmac is sealed. Porous asphalt is available | Yes, by nature | No, needs a drain on the property | Usually laid to a fall instead |
| How it fails | Sinks in the wheel tracks if the base is thin, weeds in open joints | Cracks over a moving base, a cheap resin darkens | Softens in real heat, scuffs where a car turns on the spot | Ruts and spreads without a grid or edge | Cracks across the bays, oil stains | Natural stone weathers and can mark |
| Best suited to | Drives where repairability and pattern matter | A crisp modern look with minimal upkeep | Long drives, parking areas and commercial yards | Long drives and period houses on a budget | Hard-wearing utility areas | Sitting areas, steps and level changes in a garden |
What we can put on the page is the reasoning. What decides the cost of a driveway in Bournemouth is set out next, so you can read two quotes against each other and see exactly where they differ. For one surface in depth, go to block paving, resin driveways or tarmac driveways.
What it costs
How much does a driveway cost in Bournemouth?
A driveway in Bournemouth costs what the ground, the drainage and the access make it, and most of that money goes below the surface. Excavation, spoil disposal, sub-base depth, edge restraints and drainage are the bulk of the job, so a price per square metre tells you very little. The cheapest quote is usually the one that digs out least.
No figure goes on this page before we have seen the ground. What we can do is set out every variable behind the number, so you can compare two quotes on something more useful than the total at the bottom.
What moves the number
- What has to come out first. Breaking out an old concrete slab is a different job from lifting block paving, which is different again from digging up a lawn. How deep you have to go to reach a firm formation is the variable nobody quotes on the phone and everybody meets on site.
- Disposal. Spoil is heavy and it goes by volume, not by area. Whether a grab lorry can stand outside, how far the barrow run is, and how much comes out are all real money. Anyone carting it away should be a registered waste carrier, and the public register on GOV.UK lets you check that in about a minute.
- Sub-base depth. A drive that takes a small car and a forecourt that takes five, or a van or a caravan, want different build-ups over different ground. This is the line that separates a drive still flat in ten years from one that ruts in two.
- Drainage. A permeable build-up, a soakaway, a channel drain across the threshold or a connection to a surface water outfall are all different costs. Which one you need is set by the ground, the levels and where the water is allowed to go.
- Levels and edges. A sloping plot, a threshold that has to meet the front door and the back of the pavement, steps, and a boundary that is not square all add setting-out time and material. Edge restraints hold the whole surface together and are never optional.
- The surface itself. Gravel, tarmac, concrete, block, resin and slab paving all differ per square metre, and within each the material choice moves the price again. It is the last decision on the quote and rarely the biggest one.
- Access during the works. A drive a machine can reach costs less than one where everything goes by barrow through a side gate. If the patio is on the list as well, doing both while the machinery, muck-away and deliveries are already covered is the largest saving available on this page.
- Anything outside your boundary. A dropped kerb is a separate application to BCP Council, with its own fees and its own timescale, and it is not part of the driveway price.
Cheap driveways, and where the saving really comes from
A lower price can be an honest one. Gravel costs less to lay than resin. Tarmac is good value over a big area. A sound existing base can sometimes be kept and overlaid. Doing the patio in the same visit shares the dig and the lorry. A lower price that comes from a shallower dig, no membrane or no drainage is no saving at all, because it shows up as ruts, sunken blocks and ponding within a few winters.
What we will ask you
Rough dimensions, and what is there now. Whether it ponds anywhere after heavy rain. What the drive has to carry, and whether anything heavier than a car parks on it. Whether the ground falls towards the house or towards the road. Whether a machine and a lorry can get to it. Whether you already have a dropped kerb. And whether the back garden is on the list too, because that answer changes the price of both.
Why two driveway quotes differ
Because you cannot see the difference once the surface is on. One quote digs out to a firm formation, the other digs just deep enough to fit the new surface over the old one. One lays a membrane and compacts the sub-base in layers, the other tips it in and runs a plate over the top. One prices the drainage properly, the other lets the water find its own way. All four of those look identical on the day the job is finished.
So ask each quote what depth they are digging to, what the sub-base is and how it is compacted, what happens to the surface water, whether edge restraints are included, and whether excavation and disposal are itemised or buried in the rate. Those five questions will explain the gap between the two prices.
Planning & drainage
Do you need planning permission for a driveway in Bournemouth?
A front driveway on a house in Bournemouth needs no planning permission if it is permeable, or if its rainwater runs to a lawn, border or soakaway inside your boundary. Cover more than five square metres of front garden with a sealed surface that drains onto the road, and you need permission. Flats, maisonettes and listed buildings do not get this allowance.
Some people search for it as the new rule for driveways, but it has been in force since 1 October 2008, when permitted development changed to stop front gardens draining into the street. The Planning Portal guidance on paving your front garden and the government's guidance on permeable front gardens both set it out. Back gardens and patios are not caught by it.
What counts as permeable
Permeable means rain soaks down through the surface and the layers under it: gravel, permeable block paving on open graded stone, porous asphalt, and resin bound on a permeable build-up. Resin bonded, standard tarmac and plain concrete are sealed. The permeability is in the build-up, not just the top layer, so a permeable block laid on a dense, sealed base does not drain.
A sealed surface still works if the water is caught: falls to a channel drain or gully, then to a soakaway or a planted border inside your boundary. Where the water goes after it leaves the drive is a building regulations question, and Approved Document H sets the order to try: an infiltration system first, then a watercourse, then a sewer. That is sustainable drainage, or SuDS, at the scale of one front garden.
Flats, converted houses and shared forecourts
The permitted development allowance for hard surfacing belongs to houses. A flat or maisonette has none, so resurfacing a converted villa's forecourt can need planning permission whatever its size, and BCP says a dropped kerb for a flat usually needs it too. The freeholder or management company has to agree first. If the cost comes back through the service charge, the landlord must consult leaseholders under section 20 of the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985, and a written itemised quote is the document that process needs. The work can be phased so half the forecourt stays in use. Landlords and agents have their own page.
Conservation areas and the cliff top
Bournemouth's conservation areas include Meyrick Park and Talbot Woods, Portchester Road, Dean Park, East Cliff, The Saints and Westbourne, and the council's list of conservation areas shows the boundaries. BCP's Meyrick Park and Talbot Woods appraisal names open hard-standing with no front wall or greenery as harmful, and the Portchester Road appraisal says plain tarmac makes garden, pavement and road read as one surface. In those streets, keep the low front wall and some planting, keep the opening modest, choose block or bound gravel over plain tarmac, and ask the council before a wall comes down.
On the clifftop roads of East Cliff, West Cliff and Southbourne, BCP's 2024 Strategic Flood Risk Assessment warns that soakaways can undermine cliff and chine stability, and says infiltration near the cliffs should not be used without a competent geotechnical engineer. There the drive drains through a sealed channel to a proper outfall, and we will not sink a deep soakaway by the cliff edge on a guess.
The one local thing
BCP dropped kerb rules and your driveway
BCP Council, the highway authority for Bournemouth, will only drop a kerb where the parking space is big enough and the pavement outside is clear. Check both before you pay for a new front drive. A drive the council will not give a crossing to is only a patio, however well it is built.
BCP's own dropped kerb guidance sets the rules, and they shape the design from the first measurement:
- Space. At least 5.5 by 2.6 metres if the car faces the road, or 2.8 by 6.5 metres if it sits side-on. A crossing the council judges excessive for the house, or harmful to the street scene or on-street parking, can be refused or scaled back.
- Obstacles. No crossing within 1 metre of a street light, road sign or tree (further for roots), or within 10 metres of a junction, pedestrian crossing or other road safety measure. BCP will not remove a healthy street tree for access.
- Levels. BCP can reject a crossing if the drive cannot be made level with the back of the pavement, or if the road camber or kerb height could damage a car. So the drive's levels are set to meet the back of the pavement, and they are taken at the survey.
- Drainage. A drive in concrete, sealed tarmac, brick paving or any other non-porous surface needs a drain on your property, so no water spills onto the highway. That is one more reason to build permeable in Bournemouth.
- Loose surfaces. A gravel drive needs a retaining strip of at least 1 metre across the full width of the entrance, in a gravel grid, block paving, concrete or tarmac.
- Deeds and consent. Check your deeds allow parking at the front, or get your landlord's written consent if you rent. BCP quotes for and builds the crossing itself, or you use a contractor licensed to work on the highway under Section 171.
The crossing is a separate job from the drive and sits outside our price. Apply early, or at least have it assessed, because the drive's levels at the pavement edge have to meet it. The Planning Portal guidance on dropped kerbs explains why the highway authority decides it. We check the kerb outside at the survey and set the entrance to suit.
How it works
How does a driveway installation run, start to finish?
A driveway runs from survey and levels to a written quote, then the dig and the base, then the surface and a swept site. The sequence, the working duration and where the spoil is going are all agreed before anyone turns up.
Survey and levels
We measure up, take levels against the house and the back of the pavement, look at where water goes now, check the kerb outside for lamp posts, signs and trees, and talk through surfaces, colours and access.
Written quote
Itemised: excavation and disposal, sub-base, drainage, edgings and the surface itself, with a start date and a working duration.
Dig out and base
Old surface out and away, geotextile membrane down, sub-base laid and compacted in layers, edge restraints set, falls checked.
Surface and finish
The finish laid, jointed or sealed as the material requires, drainage tested, and the site swept and cleared before we leave.
Anything the dig uncovers, such as an old soakaway, a buried pipe or a pocket of soft ground, is photographed and priced before the work goes further. Nothing extra goes on the bill without you seeing it first, and the pavement outside is kept safe and clear throughout.
Patios
Should the patio be done at the same time as the driveway?
Doing the patio at the same time as the driveway usually costs less and means one lot of disruption. The excavation, the muck-away and the deliveries are already covered, and the levels and drainage get planned as one scheme across the front and back.
One dig, one skip, one set of machinery
Patios are laid on a full mortar bed with the falls running away from the house, jointed to suit the material, and finished with the steps, edging and level changes the garden needs. Porcelain, natural stone or concrete paving, whichever suits the house and how much upkeep you want to do. It also lets you tie the two areas together, carrying a border or a colour from the drive through to the patio. If the back garden is the whole job, go straight to patio laying, where the slabs, the falls and the jointing are covered properly.
The bigger gardens tend to be out of town, in places like Ferndown and Verwood, and that is where a drive and a patio done as one job saves the most.
Reviews
What customers said
Two driveway and patio customers wrote these after the job was finished. One had a resin driveway, patio and decking laid in BH13 on a site that was far from straightforward. The other had a new patio. The Checkatrade review is verified by Checkatrade.
Bournemouth Roofing and Building completed a beautiful resin driveway, patio, and decking area for us. The job was quite complex and far from straightforward, but they handled everything with professionalism and skill…
Really happy with our new patio from Bournemouth Roofing & Building. It looks beautiful and we couldn't be more pleased with how it's turned out. Tom and Lloyd were both lovely, really knowledgeable and kept us updated throughout, which was reassuring…
Questions
Driveway questions, answered
Six questions people search before choosing a driveway surface or a firm, answered straight. Planning and the dropped kerb have their own sections above.
What is the new rule for driveways in the UK?
The rule is not new. In England, since 1 October 2008, paving more than five square metres of a house's front garden with a sealed surface that drains onto the road needs planning permission.
A permeable surface, or a sealed one that drains to your own lawn, border or soakaway, does not. Flats and maisonettes sit outside the allowance altogether, and in Bournemouth a sealed drive also needs a drain on your property before BCP will drop the kerb.
Is it cheaper to tarmac or concrete a driveway?
Over a large, simple area, tarmac is usually the quicker and cheaper of the two, because it goes down hot and is rolled in one visit with no formwork and no curing time. Concrete needs shuttering, movement joints and several days before you can drive on it.
On a small drive the gap narrows, and both need the same dig and sub-base, which is most of the cost. Both are sealed surfaces, so in Bournemouth either one needs a drain on your property. Tarmac is also easier to patch without the repair standing out.
What are the disadvantages of block paving?
The joints. Kiln dried sand washes and brushes out, and an open joint lets blocks rock and gives weed seed somewhere to root, so the sand needs topping up after every deep clean.
Block paving also sinks where the sub-base was too thin or the edge restraints move, most visibly in the wheel tracks. A small dip over sound ground is a lift and relay. A whole area going down together means the base has failed, and relaying the blocks alone only buys time. The upside is that a stained or broken block can be cut out and replaced on its own.
How long does a resin driveway last, and can you pressure wash it?
A resin drive lasts as long as its base and its resin. Laid on a sound, well drained base with a UV-stable resin, it keeps its colour and holds together for many years. On a poor base it cracks along whatever moves underneath, and a resin that is not UV-stable darkens in the sun.
The other downsides: it cannot be laid in wet or cold weather, and a patch repair shows. You can pressure wash it, gently. Use a wide fan nozzle at moderate pressure, keep the lance well back, and never aim it at an edge.
How long does a driveway take?
Most domestic driveways are a matter of days, not weeks, but the honest answer is that it depends on the size, what is coming out first, and what we find underneath.
Digging out and carting away the old surface, then getting a proper sub-base in and compacted, usually takes as long as laying the new surface does. Ground conditions, drainage work and the weather all move the timescale, so we give you a start date and a working duration with the quote in place of a guess on the phone.
How do I find a good driveway company in Bournemouth?
Check the firm exists: a limited company has a number you can look up on Companies House, and ours is company number 15471719. Read reviews on more than one site, and look for driveway reviews in particular.
Then get a written, itemised quote from each firm and ask the same five questions: how deep they dig, what sub-base goes in and how it is compacted, where the surface water goes, whether edge restraints are included, and whether excavation and disposal are priced separately. A firm that cannot answer those clearly is guessing.
Where we work
Driveways Across Bournemouth, Poole and Dorset
Bournemouth Roofing & Building lays driveways and patios from 80a Wolverton Road in Boscombe, across Bournemouth and out to Poole, Christchurch, Wimborne, Ferndown, Ringwood and Verwood. The job is specified and priced the same way wherever it is. Bournemouth, Poole and Christchurch share BCP Council for planning and dropped kerbs; outside that area we point you to the right council at the survey.
Within Bournemouth there are driveway pages for Boscombe, Southbourne, Westbourne, Moordown and Kinson. The company is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, company number 15471719, owned by Thomas Hannen, with a verified 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade.
Driveways and patios by location
Driveways in every town and village we cover
Every town and village below has its own driveway page, written from the ground, the housing stock and the planning position of that place, using Environment Agency, British Geological Survey, Valuation Office Agency and Census records. Bournemouth itself is this page; its districts are listed first.
Within 8 miles
8 to 14 miles
- Stone (also Sturminster Marshall)
- Furzehill
- Ashley Heath
- Beacon Hill
- Swanage
- Holt (also Chalbury Common, Gaunt's Common and more)
- Holton Heath
- Thorney Hill
- Three Legged Cross
- Lytchett Matravers
- Langton Matravers (also Worth Matravers, Harman's Cross)
- Barton on Sea
- Corfe Castle (also Studland)
- Sandford
- Ridge (also Stoborough)
- Ringwood
- New Milton
- Wareham
- Bashley
- Burley (also Burley Street)
- Verwood
- Hangersley (also Hightown)
- Ashley
- Milford on Sea
- Everton (also Hordle)
- Spetisbury (also Charlton Marshall)
- Alderholt
- Cranborne (also Whitmore)
14 to 20 miles
- Tarrant Monkton (also Pimperne)
- Hyde (also Frogham, North Gorley and more)
- Winterborne Kingston
- Lymington
- Brockenhurst
- Boldre (also Sandy Down, Tiptoe and more)
- Sandleheath
- Bere Regis
- Fordingbridge
- Blandford Forum
- Walhampton and Portmore (also Pilley)
- Wool
- Bryanston
- Rockbourne (also Martin)
- Lyndhurst
- Sixpenny Handley
- West Lulworth (also Burngate)
- Breamore (also Woodgreen)
- Minstead
- Winterborne Stickland
- Winfrith Newburgh (also Briantspuddle)
- Milborne St Andrew (also Winterborne Whitechurch)
- Stourpaine (also Durweston, Ash)
- Tolpuddle
- East Boldre
- Cadnam and Bartley
- Lover
- Redlynch
- Downton
- Ashmore
- Woodlands
- Crossways
- Iwerne Minster (also Shroton)
- Owermoigne
Free quote
Get a price for your drive
Thomas Hannen comes out, measures up, checks where the water needs to go and the kerb outside, and puts a free itemised quote in writing in front of you. No obligation.