Driveways in Sopley

Drives, front paths, steps and terraces across Sopley and BH23. We dig a trial hole and take levels before anybody talks about a surface.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

Last updated

Too little stone underneath and nothing holding the edge is what usually lies behind a failing drive, in Sopley as anywhere else. The tarmac itself is rarely the problem. The fix is a proper dig and a compacted sub-base, not another layer over the top.

Around Sopley a drive goes soft and rutted, a path or step lifts, or a back terrace sits too close to the damp proof course. A drive has gone soft and rutted where the car sits, the edges have crumbled into the lawn and puddles hang about for days after rain. A front path or a step has lifted enough to catch a foot, usually at the threshold where it matters most. Or a back garden needs a proper terrace instead of the slabs somebody laid over the old ones years ago, which now sit far too close to the damp proof course.

We come and look, dig a trial hole where the wheels actually stand so we can see what is underneath, and take levels off the door and the road. Then you get an itemised written quote with the excavation, the muck away, the sub-base, the edgings, the drainage and the surface each on their own line.

The work

Worn drives, front paths and paired drives on the boundary

Grey block paved driveway with a curved charcoal border, cleanly laid and jointed (one of our own jobs, shown for driveways in Sopley)
Laid on a real baseWhat is under it decides more than what goes on top. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Worn out tarmac drives. Whatever the age of the house, a drive that was never rebuilt from the base up shows the same signs. What you see now is crazing across the middle, rutting in the wheel tracks, an edge that has lost its kerb with grass creeping in, and ponding where the fall has flattened out.

Laying new tarmac over that buys a couple of winters at most. We excavate to a firm formation, put a geotextile membrane down where the ground is soft, build a compacted sub-base to a depth that suits the traffic, then surface it in tarmac, block paving or resin. The edge gets a haunched restraint on both sides so it cannot spread again.

Front paths, steps and the bit by the door. Concrete flags on sand are the standard path here and they lift as soon as the ground under them moves. A relay with the base corrected costs far less than a new path and it usually sorts the trip at the same time. Where the step at the front door has settled, the riser heights need evening up, because packing one step does not work, and the top surface wants a fall away from the threshold so water is not sitting against the door in a downpour.

Paired drives and the line between two houses. Where two houses sit side by side with their drives laid as one and no edge between them, so one neighbour's settlement becomes both neighbours' puddle. We take levels across the whole width before pricing, set a proper edge restraint on the boundary, and make sure water crosses onto a border or a channel drain, never onto next door. Where both households want the work, doing the two halves in one visit saves a second mobilisation.

Paving that has crept up the wall. Where a terrace has been relaid over the old one more than once, the finished level ends up above the damp proof course and the wall starts showing it. The right job is to break out, reset the level with a gravel margin along the house, and lay on a full mortar bed with the jointing chosen for the width of the joint. Natural stone, porcelain and concrete slab all behave once the falls take water away from the building. The most exposed elevation here faces south west, and that is the corner where splash back shows first. For the back garden, see patios in Sopley.

Much of the ground in this parish is river terrace sand and gravel, which drains well until the winter water table rises near the Avon. That makes a soakaway something to test when the ground is wettest and to keep well away from foundations, and where infiltration will not work we design a positive outfall instead. Approved Document H covers what is acceptable, and a permeable surface often removes the argument altogether.

How it runs

Building a new drive, from the dig to the last joint

Thomas comes to see the frontage, checks the levels and where the water goes now, and looks for drains, manholes and service covers. Some Sopley frontages are generous, others are narrow or shared, and some older cottages have almost no frontage, so the first question is what will actually fit.

The quote itemises excavation, muck away, the sub base, edgings, the surface, drainage and any kerb work. Clearing up at the end is part of it. Where there is no side access the digger and the grab lorry usually work from the road, so we plan deliveries and keep the path clear for your neighbours. The site is left safe each evening, spoil goes off in the lorry, and nothing is dumped. If we dig into an old soakaway, a broken drain or soft ground, you see a photograph and a price first.

New hard surfacing at the front over five square metres needs planning permission if it drains onto the road, while a permeable build-up or a fall onto your own ground keeps it permitted development, as Planning Portal sets out that test. New Forest District Council handles planning, but check the National Park Authority's property map before anyone prices a boundary wall, and bear in mind that parts of Sopley are in the Sopley Conservation Area. A new opening also needs dropped kerb consent.

Cost

Sand, gravel and drainage come first on a drive

Porcelain paving with a gravel border, raised planters and a young tree in a rear garden (one of our own jobs, shown for driveways in Sopley)
Porcelain, laid to fallEven joints, level edges, and rain going where it should. Photo from one of our own jobs.

What the ground is. Sopley sits on sand and gravel laid down on the Avon's river terrace. It drains well for most of the year, but the dig still has to go below the topsoil to firm ground, and how deep that is decides most of the variation between jobs.

Where the water goes. Near the river the water table sits high in winter, so a soakaway, a permeable surface or a channel drain to a proper outlet has to be designed rather than guessed. Sending water towards the house on this ground brings damp to the walls. Approved Document H sets how surface water should be dealt with.

Getting to the frontage. A house with a side gate and room for a skip is one job. A frontage where the grab lorry has to stop on the road and every load is barrowed is slower. A shared track to an older house is another again.

The surface. Block paving, resin bound, gravel in a grid and tarmac each take different labour and a different sub base. Edgings and steps are priced separately.

Ask any quote how deep the dig is, what sub base is going in and how thick, how the water is being handled, and who removes the spoil.

If it is urgent

A sunken drive, a lifted block or water at the door

Resin bound driveway laid up to the house with planted beds and a level threshold at the doors (illustrative photo for driveways in Sopley)
Resin, laid to fallFree draining, no loose stone, level at the threshold. Illustrative photo.

A lifted slab or block is a trip hazard, and a sunken area by the front door or a gully that has stopped draining sends water back towards the house. Put something over a trip hazard so it is visible, then give us a ring rather than filling in the form.

We make the surface safe on the first visit, lift and re-bed the worst blocks where that works, or cut in a temporary channel to take water away from the wall. The permanent repair is priced after that. Normal bookings run Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. For anything that will not wait, phone us, and should we miss you we call back.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

No two drives here start from the same base

Black tarmac driveway edged with buff block paving (one of our own jobs, shown for driveways in Sopley)
Edged and restrainedWithout an edge restraint a drive spreads and the edges go first. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Sopley is a small village with a conservation area over its historic core, and its houses were not built to one pattern. That matters more than it sounds. A drive beside an old cottage, one in front of a later house and a long track to a house set back from the road each started from a different base.

If two neighbours are both talking about their driveways, the causes can still differ. One drive may have thin stone and no membrane, the next an edge that was never haunched, or a fall that was fine until the surface settled.

The useful thing to take from it is that a neighbour's price is a poor guide to yours, even on an identical plot. What decides the cost is how deep we have to dig before we reach something worth building on, and how much spoil that puts in a lorry. One house may need a modest dig, and the one next door may hit soft ground that needs a geotextile membrane and another hundred millimetres of stone.

That is also why we dig a trial hole on the site visit instead of quoting from a photograph. If you and a neighbour are both thinking about it, say so when you ring: sharing the excavator, the muck away and the delivery of stone across two drives in one go takes real money off both.

Who you are dealing with

Who you are dealing with on a Sopley drive

Our base is in Boscombe, 3.7 miles from Sopley, and we cover the village and BH23 out through Winkton, Burton, Ripley and Bransgore. New Forest District Council deals with planning in Sopley itself, while Winkton and Burton fall under BCP Council. Registered in England and Wales, Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd carries company number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Sopley, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

It is owned by Thomas Hannen, who measures the frontage and prices the drive himself. On Checkatrade, a verified customer marked us 10 out of 10. The site visit is free of charge, as is the written quote listing every item.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Sopley?

Most repairs in Sopley need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Sopley, from council and national records.
Question In Sopley
Who decides New Forest District Council is the planning authority for Sopley. The National Park boundary runs close by, and the Park's property map shows which side an address falls.
Conservation area Yes: Sopley Conservation Area covers part of the village, so check whether your street is inside it. Winkton Conservation Area lies next door, in the BCP Council area.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Sopley. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Sopley.

Questions

Questions about driveways in Sopley

Does conservation area status reach as far as the front path?

Yes, conservation area status reaches the appearance of whatever can be seen from the street, and in the Sopley conservation area the front surface is part of that. Replacing like for like is maintenance and needs nothing from anybody. Swapping a gravel or brick frontage for a different material is a change, and on a row where the frontages read as one run it is the change most likely to be questioned. New Forest will confirm the position in writing.

There is no side access. How does the muck come out?

Out through the front and straight into a grab lorry, never heaped on the pavement. Where a house has no side access, the back garden is reached down a shared alley or not at all, and that single fact decides whether the job runs on a micro digger, a barrow line or hand dig. We settle it on the visit, because it moves the labour far more than the choice of paving does.

Our drive runs alongside next door's. Do we need the same work?

Two drives that look alike can sit on quite different bases, so a trial hole on each tells you more than how the surfaces look side by side. What fails first is the edging and the joint against the threshold, not the middle of the surface. That is why the edges and the drainage get priced apart from a full relay.

Rain runs off the drive towards the house. Is that serious?

It is more than a nuisance. Water arriving at the same spot beside a foundation keeps that corner wet, and near the Avon the ground there is already wet enough in winter, so it is a damp matter and can soften the ground under the wall. We regrade so the fall carries water to a channel at the low end and out to a drain, and keep any infiltration well clear of the building. Most Sopley plots have room for that.

Is there a wrong month to lay block paving?

Frost is the one to plan around. Bedding sand and jointing material do not behave in a hard frost, and a surface jointed in freezing weather can lose its lock and need doing again. Rain matters less than people expect, since the dig and the sub-base carry on regardless. Sopley is close enough to the yard that a jointing day can be pushed back two days and picked up again rather than forced through.

Free quote

Get a price for a drive or patio in Sopley

Tell us the address and what the drive or the paving is doing now. We will come and look, then put an itemised price in writing. Both cost nothing.