Lime repointing in Cranborne

Hand tools, a mix worked back from a sample of your own mortar, and the existing joints photographed before anything is opened up.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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On an old Cranborne wall the mortar is meant to be the part that wears out, so once the lime has gone sandy or weathered back behind the brick, it is due. Repointing renews it: raked out by hand, then a lime mix matched to the original, kept softer and more open than the brick around it. Bricks that have lost their faces are cut out and replaced as a separate repair.

Where it starts

The state most Cranborne walls are in by now

Repointing a brick wall by hand, mortar being struck into a raked-out joint (illustrative photo for repointing in Cranborne)
Struck by handOne joint at a time, filled and struck so the face sheds water. Illustrative photo.

Cranborne walls need repointing through age or through a bad earlier repair. Age shows as a joint washed out behind the face of the brick, sand collecting at the foot of the wall, mortar friable enough to crumble under a key. A bad repair shows as an elevation pointed in a hard sand and cement mix at some point in the last few decades, the brick faces beside it now flaking while the joints look untouched.

Both are mortar work and neither means the wall is in trouble. What they mean is that the mix matters more than the schedule. We look at every elevation of a Cranborne house, test joints with a key, tap the courses for the hollow note that says the pointing has parted from the brick, take a sample of the soundest original mortar we can find, and photograph what is there before anything is touched. That comes back as a written itemised quote, elevation by elevation, free.

The work

Lime, hand tools and patience

Raked-out joints on a red brick pier being filled with fresh mortar (one of our own jobs, shown for repointing in Cranborne)
Raked back firstDepth before filling. A disc widens the joint and takes the arris off. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Raking out is done by hand. Joints come back to twice their width, deeper where the mortar behind is soft. On old brickwork an angle grinder is not a shortcut but damage: it widens the joint, wanders off the line and takes the arris off the brick, and once an arris has gone no pointing puts it back. Perpends are worked with a plugging chisel. Everything is brushed out and damped down before a trowel goes near it.

Choosing the mix. A natural hydraulic lime is graded by how much set it has, and the right grade on a sheltered elevation is not the right one on a wall taking driven rain off open country. Lime putty gauged with a well graded sand is softer still, and right on the most porous handmade brick. The rule that never changes is that the mortar must be weaker and more permeable than the brick, so that when the wall takes water the joint gives up rather than the brick face.

Cement pointing, taken off. Where a solid Cranborne wall has been pointed in sand and cement, the joint has stopped a breathable wall breathing. The moisture that used to leave through the mortar leaves through the brick instead, and the first hard frost lifts the face away. Removing a hard mix without chipping the edges is slow, quiet work with hand tools, and it reverses the damage rather than covering it.

The joint profile. Old brickwork in Cranborne is generally struck flush or very slightly recessed, following the face of the brick. A weather struck or heavily recessed joint on a period frontage reads wrong, and a ribbon of mortar standing proud of the brick, which happens when a wall is pointed over rather than raked out, is the worst thing done to a building like this. If a wall has had that treatment we take it off; working over it only hides the damage.

Spalled faces. Where a brick face has blown we cut it out whole and turn it if the back is sound, or replace it against a sample from the wall. Filling the hollow with mortar makes a patch that never matches and drops out within a few winters.

Chimneys and flaunching. A Cranborne stack takes weather on four sides with nothing warming it from inside, so its joints wash out first and the penetrating damp that follows shows as a stain on a ceiling. Pointing a stack, cutting out frost damaged bricks and renewing the flaunching round the pots want the same platform and one visit.

How it runs

Raking out and repointing in lime, from start to finish

Brick corner with a moulded plinth course, mortar matched to the original work (illustrative photo for repointing in Cranborne)
Matched, not guessedColour, sand and joint profile picked up from what is already there. Illustrative photo.

Thomas looks closely at every elevation, scratches out a few joints to see how soft they are, and sets the price himself. Raking out is done by hand on every elevation.

The written quote itemises access, raking out, the lime mix, the area of each elevation, brick replacement and disposal.

Old Cranborne walls are mostly lime pointed, often around flint as well as brick. We rake by hand to an even depth, brush and dampen the joints, and point back in lime matched to the original for colour and grit. You approve a sample panel first. Lime must not dry too fast, so fresh work is hung with damp hessian in sun or wind and sheeted against frost. The scaffold is tidied each evening, paths and windows are kept clean, and old mortar goes with us. A cracked brick or loose flint found in an opened joint is photographed and priced for you first.

Like for like repointing is repair, with no planning application. On a listed building the mortar is protected fabric, and a new mix, colour or joint profile needs listed building consent before a joint is opened. Cranborne is in the Cranborne Conservation Area, so check any change of appearance with Dorset Council. Nearby, we also point in Alderholt and Verwood.

Cost

How deep the joints go decides the price

Stone gable with the joints repointed in a lime mortar (illustrative photo for repointing in Cranborne)
Stone wants limeOn rubble stone the mortar is most of the surface, and it has to breathe. Illustrative photo.

The area of wall says little on its own. The joints and the brick decide the hours. Getting to the wall. A Cranborne cottage whose wall is the edge of the lane, with nowhere to put a scaffold foot, a farmhouse gable out on open downland, and a chimney on a steep pitch all need different platforms.

How long it stays up counts as much as its size, and the work at height rules set what it must be, so it is shown separately.

How far back the joints have gone. On soft brick and around flint, raking is done by hand, and that is slow. Lime that has turned to powder deep in the wall takes much longer than a tired surface, and faces that have spalled have to be cut out and replaced.

The mortar. Pointing an old soft brick in hard cement is a common mistake. The cement traps water in the brick, frost gets in, and the face flakes off. Lime is gentler, slower to lay and slower to cure, and it suits most walls built before the First World War. Matching sand and colour takes a sample panel.

The season. Lime work stops when frost is forecast, so an autumn booking can stretch.

Ask any other firm how deep they will rake and whether by hand, whether the mix is lime and matched to yours, and whether scaffold is included.

If water is getting in

Driven rain coming through open joints

Damp on an inside wall after rain is worth noting down: where it is, and which way the wall faces. Washed out joints let wind driven rain straight through, and on a chimney the water works round the flashings. On a Cranborne house the wall facing open country usually goes first.

We sheet the worst or point it temporarily on the first visit, and price the whole elevation once it has dried enough to judge. On a listed building, emergency work is sheeting only, because temporary mortar would have to come off without a mark. We repoint Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. With water getting in, call instead of using the form, and if we miss you we call back.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Record the joint before you destroy the evidence

In a village with listed buildings in the parish, and inside the Cranborne Conservation Area, the mortar on your wall is not only a technical choice. It shows anyone looking what the building was. Once a joint is raked out that record is gone, and if the work turns out to have needed consent there is nothing left to show what the original was like. That is why we check the address with Dorset Council first.

So the sequence matters. Before a chisel goes into a wall here, photograph the existing joints close up in daylight, keep a lump of sound original mortar from somewhere sheltered, and note the profile the joints are struck to. Those three things take twenty minutes and they become the evidence for the specification, the basis for matching the sand, and the answer if a conservation officer asks what was there before. It is also what makes a trial panel meaningful: the panel is judged against the sample, not a colour chart. We do all of it as a matter of course and leave you the photographs.

Who you are dealing with

A lime pointing firm you can look up first

We come out 13.9 miles from Boscombe to Cranborne, and we repoint across the village, Wimborne St Giles, Alderholt, Verwood and the villages up on the Chase, all in BH21 and under Dorset Council. Our registered company is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, in England and Wales, number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Cranborne, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Thomas Hannen owns the business, and he is who comes to scratch the joints and put a price on your wall. We have a verified 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade from a customer. The visit costs nothing, and you get the quote written down and itemised, also at no cost.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Cranborne?

Most repairs in Cranborne need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Cranborne, from council and national records.
Question In Cranborne
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Cranborne. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area Yes: Cranborne Conservation Area. Check whether your street is inside the boundary before changing anything visible.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Cranborne. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape Inside the Cranborne Chase & West Wiltshire Downs National Landscape (formerly AONB), so anything visible from outside gets more attention.

Questions

Questions about repointing in Cranborne

Our wall was pointed in cement years ago. Can that be undone?

Yes, and on a solid wall it is usually worth doing. The cement comes out with hand tools instead of a disc, which is slow because the point is to leave the brick edges intact, and a lime mix matched to the original goes back. Where the faces have spalled behind that hard joint, those bricks are cut out and replaced at the same time.

How is the grade of lime chosen for a particular wall?

By working back from how porous and how soft the brick is, and how much weather that elevation takes. A very porous handmade brick on a sheltered face wants something at the soft end, because the joint has to stay weaker than the brick beside it. The same brick on a gable taking driven rain off open country needs more set in the mix. We match to a sample of your existing mortar, not one grade for the whole building.

How long does lime pointing take to harden, and what happens meanwhile?

It is firm within days and goes on gaining strength for months. For the first week or two it wants keeping damp, shaded and off a frost, which means hessian over the work and a light misting rather than leaving it to the weather. That protection is part of the job and part of the price, and it is why lime work is booked into a settled stretch.

Can lime mortar be worked here in the middle of summer?

It can, with care. The risk in hot weather is the opposite of the winter one: the mix dries before it has set, and mortar that has flashed off is weak and dusty. That means damping the joints down properly first, working in the shade where possible, and keeping the finished work covered and misted. On a still, warm, overcast week it is close to ideal.

Is a trial panel worth the delay?

On a building of this age, yes. A panel of a square metre or so on a discreet elevation shows the colour, the texture and the profile together, which no description does. Fresh mortar reads lighter than aged mortar, so the panel is assessed on how it will look weathered in.

Free quote

Get the wall recorded and sampled first

Thomas comes out, tests and photographs the joints, takes a mortar sample and puts the specification and the price in writing, at no cost to you.