Repointing in Sandleheath, old walls and soft mortar
We read the wall before we pick the mix, then rake by hand and point back in something the brick can live with.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
About a fifth of the housing around Sandleheath was built before 1919, and almost none of it is listed. That combination is why there is so much cement pointing on soft old brick here: nothing in the planning system is going to stop it, so the decision about the mix falls entirely to whoever is paying for the job.
So the useful thing we can do on a first visit is tell you what you have got. An old solid wall and a later cavity wall look similar from twenty feet away and want opposite mortars, and the difference between them is not the date on the deeds, it is what the wall is made of and how it handles water.
The calls themselves are ordinary enough. Joints on a gable crumbling away until you can put a key in past the knuckle. Brick faces flaking off in plates below a sill. Penetrating damp showing on an inside wall after a wet south westerly. Grit collecting in a gutter under a stack. Every one of those is mortar rather than structure. The site visit covers each elevation, joints get scraped at two heights and tapped along a course for the hollow note that says the pointing has parted from the brick, and it all gets photographed. The survey and the written itemised quote are free.
The work
Reading a wall first, then deciding the mortar

Telling an old wall from a later one. Four things give it away and none of them needs a ladder. The bond: an older solid wall usually shows headers as well as stretchers in the pattern, a cavity wall shows stretchers only. The brick: handmade brick is uneven in size and colour with a soft arris, later brick is regular and hard. The joint width: old joints are wide and often flush or recessed, later ones are narrow and weather struck or bucket handle. And the reveal: on a solid wall the window sits close to the outside face. We check all four and tell you which you have before we say a word about mix.
Solid walls, in lime. Where the wall turns out to be solid there is no cavity behind the brick, and the only way it sheds water is by soaking it up and letting it evaporate back out through the joint. It has to stay breathable, so the mortar must be softer and more open than the brick. Joints come out by hand to roughly twice their width, no angle grinder, and go back in an NHL lime or lime putty mix gauged to the original sand for colour and grain. They are damped down before filling and brushed back once the mix has taken up, and the profile goes back to what the wall already carries.
Hard pointing on a soft wall, and taking it off. This is the biggest single job type here. A cement joint on a period brick stops the wall drying through the mortar, so the water goes out through the brick faces instead and frost takes them off. The tell is joints standing proud and hard with hollowed bricks between them, and there is good published work behind it in the research on lime and cement in traditional mortars. It comes out joint by joint with hand tools, because the cement is often stronger than the brick it is bonded to, and it shows as its own line on the quote because it is slower than pointing a wall nobody has touched.
Post-war cavity brickwork. Close to four homes in ten here went up between 1945 and 1982, and that is a single outer skin of fired brick in a cement and sand mortar. It fails at the arris rather than washing out: the joint pits, water starts to stand in it, and a hard frost lifts the face off the brick. Matching means matching the sand and the gauge as well as the colour, and a trial panel goes up somewhere discreet for you to look at in daylight, judged on how it will read weathered rather than fresh.
Blown faces. Where a brick face has gone we cut the brick out whole and turn or replace it against a sample held on the wall, rather than filling the hollow with mortar. Frost damage collects in the same places every time: under sills, beside downpipes, at the corners of a bay and in the courses just above the damp proof course where a drive or a border has been laid up against the house.
Stacks, low walls and outbuildings. A chimney weathers on four sides with nothing warming it from inside, so its joints go friable long before the house walls, and sand in the gutter is usually the first sign. Freestanding walls take weather on two faces and along the top, and the coping is nearly always what has failed. Both are quick work caught early. The stack is work at height and wants a scaffold rather than a tower, which is why it is worth doing everything up there in one visit.
How it runs
From your call to a written price

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting. The quote is itemised: access, raking out, the mortar mix, the area of each elevation, brick replacement and disposal on separate lines, so you can compare it against anyone else's.
Nothing is left open overnight, the site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. Anything nobody could have foreseen gets a photograph and a price before we carry on.
Repointing like for like is repair rather than development, so there is no planning application and nothing for building control to sign off. Sandleheath has no conservation area of its own and only two listed entries, so for almost every property here there is no consent step at all. Where a building is listed, works that affect the character of a listed building need consent and the mortar counts as part of that fabric, so listed building consent from New Forest District Council comes before a joint is opened. We check the address either way before we price the work.
Cost
What decides the price of a repointing job

No rate per square metre, because the square metres tell you almost nothing until somebody has looked at the joints.
Getting to it. A pre-war cottage on the lane, a fifties semi with a gable you can reach off a tower and a low wall along the road are three different set ups. How long the platform stands matters as much as how big it is, and the work at height rules are why access is a priced line rather than one absorbed into a rate.
The joints decide it, not the wall. Raking out by hand is slow, and on soft brick it is the only safe way. How deep the joints come back, and whether the faces have already spalled, sets the hours far more than the area does.
Matching is the part that shows. Too strong a mix is the classic mistake: cement holds water against a soft brick and the face blows off in the first hard frost. Lime is slower to work and to cure, and it is the right answer on most pre-1919 walls.
Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs, so ask each one how deep the joints are raked and whether the scaffold is in the price.
If water is getting in
Open joints, and water coming through the wall

Ring rather than use the form. A wall with the joints washed out lets driven rain straight through to the inside face, and on a chimney it finds the flashings too. We come and look, sheet or temporarily point the worst of it, and price the full elevation once it has dried enough to see what is sound. Around Sandleheath it is generally a south west gable, or a solid wall where hard pointing has trapped the water and it has finally come through on the inside face. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.
Worth knowing
Nothing here will stop you putting the wrong mortar on
In a village full of listed buildings there is a brake on the system. Somebody at the council asks what mix is going on, a sample panel gets looked at, and a bad specification gets caught before it is mixed. Sandleheath has two listed entries and no conservation area, so for practically every house here that conversation never happens. The walls are no different: a fifth of them predate 1919 and the largest single slice of the stock was built before 1900. They are the same soft handmade brick, laid in the same lime, as the protected buildings a few miles away. The only thing missing is anyone official to say so.
Which puts the check on you, so here is what to do with it. Scrape a joint with a key. If the mortar powders and the brick beside it is harder than the joint, that is a lime wall behaving properly and it wants lime back. If the joint is hard and grey and the bricks either side of it are hollowed or crumbling, somebody has already pointed it in cement and the wall is losing its faces instead of its joints. Then ask whoever is quoting you three questions: what mix are you using, what have you matched it to, and are the joints coming out by hand or with a disc. Anybody quoting a rate per square metre without having answered those has not looked at your wall. We put the specification in the written quote so you have it before you commit, not after.
Who you are dealing with
A local firm you can check
We cover Sandleheath, Fordingbridge, Alderholt, Damerham and the lanes along this side of the Avon valley, broadly SP6, under New Forest District Council. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.
Questions
Sandleheath questions we get asked
How can we tell whether our wall is solid brick or has a cavity?
Look at the bond and the window reveal. A solid wall usually shows short header bricks mixed into the pattern and the window sits close to the outer face. A cavity wall shows long stretcher bricks only and the window is set further back. It is not infallible, so we check it against the brick itself and the joint width on the visit.
Our house is not listed. Does the mortar still matter?
Just as much. Listing changes who has to be asked, not how a wall works. A solid wall built before the cavity sheds water through its joints whether or not anybody has put it on a list, and pointing it in cement will spall the brick faces exactly the same way.
What does scraping a joint with a key actually tell you?
How far gone the mortar is and, just as usefully, which is harder, the joint or the brick. Powdery mortar next to sound brick is a wall due for repointing in something soft. A hard grey joint next to a crumbling brick face is a wall that has been pointed in cement and is now losing the brick instead.
Can hard cement pointing be removed without damaging the bricks?
Yes, if it is done by hand and slowly. The risk is real, which is why it is hand tools rather than a disc cutter: a disc widens the joint and takes the arris off the brick either side. Where the cement has bonded harder than the brick we say so on the visit rather than promise a clean result everywhere.
How long should repointing last before it needs doing again?
Longer than most people fear, provided the mix suits the wall. What shortens it is the wrong mortar, joints raked too shallow, or work rushed in bad weather. The quote says what is being used and to what depth, which is the part of a repointing job that decides how long it lasts and the part most quotes leave out.
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Find out what your wall is made of before anyone quotes it
Thomas comes out, scrapes a few joints, photographs each elevation and puts the mix and the price in writing, itemised, at no cost to you.
