Repointing in Sandleheath, old walls and soft mortar
We read the wall before we pick the mix, then rake by hand and point back in something the brick can live with.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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Your joints are due when they have weathered back behind the brick, powder under a key, or damp shows inside after rain. About a fifth of the housing around Sandleheath was built before 1919, and few of those walls are listed, so nothing in the planning system stops them being pointed in hard cement: the right job is hand raking and a soft lime, and it is down to whoever pays to specify it. Spalled bricks need cutting out and rebuilding.
So the useful thing we can do on a first visit in Sandleheath is tell you what you have got. An old solid wall and a later cavity wall look similar from twenty feet away and want opposite mortars, and the difference between them is not the date on the deeds, it is what the wall is made of and how it handles water.
The faults on Sandleheath walls are ordinary enough. Joints on a gable crumbling away until you can put a key in past the knuckle. Brick faces flaking off in plates below a sill. Penetrating damp showing on an inside wall after a wet south westerly. Grit collecting in a gutter under a stack. Every one of those is mortar, not structure. The site visit covers each elevation, joints get scraped at two heights and tapped along a course for the hollow note that says the pointing has parted from the brick, and it all gets photographed. The survey and the written itemised quote are free.
The work
Reading a wall first, then deciding the mortar

Telling an old wall from a later one. The bond, the brick, the joint width and the window reveal give it away, and none of them needs a ladder. The bond: an older solid wall usually shows headers as well as stretchers in the pattern, a cavity wall shows stretchers only.
The brick: handmade brick is uneven in size and colour with a soft arris, later brick is regular and hard. The joint width: old joints are wide and often flush or recessed, later ones are narrow and weather struck or bucket handle. And the reveal: on a solid wall the window sits close to the outside face. We check each of them and tell you which you have before we say a word about mix.
Solid walls, in lime. Where a Sandleheath wall turns out to be solid there is no cavity behind the brick, and the only way it sheds water is by soaking it up and letting it evaporate back out through the joint. It has to stay breathable, so the mortar must be softer and more open than the brick. Joints come out by hand to roughly twice their width, no angle grinder, and go back in an NHL lime or lime putty mix gauged to the original sand for colour and grain. They are damped down before filling and brushed back once the mix has taken up, and the profile goes back to what the wall already carries.
Hard pointing on a soft wall, and taking it off. This is the commonest fault on the older walls here. A cement joint on a period brick stops the wall drying through the mortar, so the water goes out through the brick faces instead and frost takes them off. The tell is joints standing proud and hard with hollowed bricks between them, and there is good published work behind it in the research on lime and cement in traditional mortars. It comes out joint by joint with hand tools, because the cement is often stronger than the brick it is bonded to, and it shows as its own line on the quote because it is slower than pointing a wall nobody has touched.
Post-war cavity brickwork. Close to four homes in ten in Sandleheath went up between 1945 and 1982, and that is a single outer skin of fired brick in a cement and sand mortar. It fails at the arris rather than washing out: the joint pits, water starts to stand in it, and a hard frost lifts the face off the brick. Matching means matching the sand and the gauge as well as the colour, and a trial panel goes up somewhere discreet for you to look at in daylight, judged on how it will read weathered rather than fresh.
Blown faces. Where a brick face has gone we cut the brick out whole and turn or replace it against a sample held on the wall, rather than filling the hollow with mortar. On a Sandleheath wall frost damage collects in the same places every time: under sills, beside downpipes, at the corners of a bay and in the courses just above the damp proof course where a drive or a border has been laid up against the house.
Stacks, low walls and outbuildings. A Sandleheath chimney weathers on four sides with nothing warming it from inside, so its joints go friable long before the house walls, and sand in the gutter is usually the first sign. Freestanding walls take weather on two faces and along the top, and the coping is nearly always what has failed. Both are quick work caught early. The stack is work at height and wants a scaffold, not a tower, which is why it is worth doing everything up there in one visit.
How it runs
Raking out and repointing a Sandleheath wall in lime

Thomas scrapes a few joints on each elevation to see how deep they have gone and what the old mortar is. On the older cottages in Sandleheath it is usually lime, sometimes patched with cement. The written quote lists access, raking out, the mortar mix, the area of each elevation, brick replacement and disposal separately.
Joints are raked out by hand, not with a grinder, because a disc widens the joint and chips the edge of a soft brick. A tower does most walls; a stack or a two storey gable gets a scaffold. Lime is not laid in frost, and fresh pointing is covered from sun and rain while it cures. Dust sheets go down and the ground is swept each day. Any brick that breaks up when its joints come out is shown to you and priced before it is replaced.
Repointing like for like is repair, so there is no planning application. Sandleheath has no conservation area of its own and only two listed entries. Where a building is listed, works that affect its character need consent and the mortar is part of that fabric, so listed building consent from New Forest District Council comes first. We check the address before pricing.
Cost
Why lime repointing on an old wall is priced as it is

We never price by the square metre, because the joints decide it, not the size of the wall. The mix. On pre-1900 soft brick the mortar has to be weaker than the brick, which means lime. Cement pointing traps water in the brick, and the face blows off in a hard frost. Lime is slower to mix, lay and cure, and it cannot go on in cold weather, so it takes longer.
Depth. How far the joints have washed out, and how many faces have already spalled, sets the hours. Raking out by hand to a proper depth is slow.
Old cement to remove. Where a cottage was repointed in cement years ago, that has to come out carefully without damaging the brick edges. It is often the slowest part of the job.
Access. A low wall along the road needs no platform. A gable on a post-war semi can come off a tower. A stack needs a scaffold, and the work at height rules make that its own line.
When comparing quotes, ask how deep the joints will be raked and by what method, what mix is going in, and whether the scaffold is included.
If water is getting in
Rain getting through open joints on a solid wall

Phone instead of using the form if damp is showing on the inside of a wall after rain, or a chimney breast is staining the ceiling. On an old solid wall there is no cavity to stop it: once joints wash out, rain goes straight through, and hard cement pointing added later can hold water in the brick until it shows indoors.
Pull furniture away so the wall can dry. On the first visit we cover the worst face or put temporary pointing into the open joints if more rain is due, then come back to price it when the wall is dry enough to judge. South west gables are the first to look at. Booked jobs run Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. If we miss you, we call back as soon as possible.
Worth knowing
Nothing here will stop you putting the wrong mortar on
In a village full of listed buildings there is a brake on the system. Somebody at the council asks what mix is going on, a sample panel gets looked at, and a bad specification gets caught before it is mixed.
Sandleheath has two listed entries and no conservation area, so for practically every house here that conversation never happens. The walls are no different: a fifth of them predate 1919, and most of those were built before 1900. They are the same soft handmade brick, laid in the same lime, as the protected buildings a few miles away. The only thing missing is anyone official to say so.
Which puts the check on you, so here is what to do with it. Scrape a joint with a key. If the mortar powders and the brick beside it is harder than the joint, that is a lime wall behaving properly and it wants lime back. If the joint is hard and grey and the bricks either side of it are hollowed or crumbling, somebody has already pointed it in cement and the wall is losing its faces instead of its joints. Then ask whoever is quoting you what mix they are using, what they have matched it to, and whether the joints are coming out by hand or with a disc. Anybody quoting a rate per square metre without having answered those has not looked at your wall. We put the specification in the written quote so you have it before you commit, not after.
Who you are dealing with
Who repoints walls around Sandleheath
We repoint in Sandleheath, Fordingbridge, Alderholt, Damerham and the lanes along this side of the Avon valley, broadly SP6. New Forest District Council is the authority. Sandleheath is 14 miles from Wolverton Road, Boscombe, where we are based.
The firm is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, number 15471719. Thomas Hannen owns it, and he scrapes the joints and prices each elevation in person. One verified customer on Checkatrade scored us 10 out of 10. There is no charge for the survey or for the written quote with each item listed. Before you book a visit in Sandleheath, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Sandleheath?
Most repairs in Sandleheath need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Sandleheath |
|---|---|
| Who decides | New Forest District Council is the planning authority for Sandleheath. The National Park boundary runs close by, and the Park's property map shows which side an address falls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Sandleheath, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, Sandleheath has listed buildings. If yours is one, or stands in the grounds of one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Sandleheath. |
Questions
Questions about repointing in Sandleheath
How can we tell whether our wall is solid brick or has a cavity?
Look at the bond and the window reveal. A solid wall usually shows short header bricks mixed into the pattern and the window sits close to the outer face. A cavity wall shows long stretcher bricks only and the window is set further back. It is not infallible, so we check it against the brick itself and the joint width on the visit.
Our house is not listed. Does the mortar still matter?
Just as much. Listing changes who has to be asked, not how a wall works. A solid wall built before the cavity sheds water through its joints whether or not anybody has put it on a list, and pointing it in cement will spall the brick faces exactly the same way.
What does scraping a joint with a key actually tell you?
How far gone the mortar is and, just as usefully, which is harder, the joint or the brick. Powdery mortar next to sound brick is a wall due for repointing in something soft. A hard grey joint next to a crumbling brick face is a wall that has been pointed in cement and is now losing the brick instead.
Can hard cement pointing be removed without damaging the bricks?
Yes, if it is done by hand and slowly. The risk is real, which is why it is hand tools instead of a disc cutter: a disc widens the joint and takes the arris off the brick either side. Where the cement has bonded harder than the brick we say so on the visit rather than promise a clean result everywhere.
How long should repointing last before it needs doing again?
Longer than most people fear, provided the mix suits the wall. What shortens it is the wrong mortar, joints raked too shallow, or work rushed in bad weather. The quote says what is being used and to what depth, which is the part of a repointing job that decides how long it lasts and the part most quotes leave out.
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Repointing near Sandleheath
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Repointing guides
Lime or cement mortar: which do you need? Reading a repointing quote: rake out Listed building consent for repointing and re-renderingEverything we do in Verwood Repointing, all areas Every area we cover
Free quote
Find out what your wall is made of before anyone quotes it
Thomas comes out, scrapes a few joints, photographs each elevation and puts the mix and the price in writing, itemised, at no cost to you.
