Lime repointing in Sixpenny Handley
Hand raking, a mix specified elevation by elevation, and flint rebedded and galleted the way the wall was built.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
Last updated
Your joints are due when they have gone sandy, weathered back behind the brick or flint, or damp shows inside after rain. Late Victorian brick and older flint and lime stand on the same street in Sixpenny Handley, and they do not take the same mortar, so the job starts with working out which you have, then raking out by hand and pointing to suit. A bulging flint wall needs rebuilding first.
The failures in Sixpenny Handley are fairly consistent. Joints on the weather side that have weathered back far enough to take a finger. Flints working out of a wall along one of the lanes, usually starting under a coping that has slipped. Brick faces flaking off below a cill after a hard winter up on the downs. Or a stack dropping grit into the gutter and looking a shade out of square from the road.
All of those are mortar, not structure, and all of them want looking at close up, not from a verge. We get to your wall in Sixpenny Handley, scrape joints on more than one elevation because they are rarely in the same state, and take a sample of sound original so the replacement can be matched to it. What comes back is a written itemised quote, face by face, with the elevations we would leave alone for now marked as such. The site visit and the quote are both free.
The work
Mortar on the older walls of the Chase

Late Victorian brick is solid wall. A good deal of the Sixpenny Handley village centre is solid wall brick with no cavity behind it, bedded in a soft mortar that usually had lime in it as well as anything else.
Sixpenny Handley walls like that shed water by letting it evaporate back out of the joint, so the joint has to stay softer and more open than the brick. We rake out by hand with a chisel and a hacksaw blade to a depth of about twice the joint width, take the perpends as well as the beds, damp the joints down before filling and brush them back once the mix has taken up. The profile goes back to whatever the wall carries, usually flush or slightly recessed instead of the weather struck or bucket handle finish you find on later work.
Getting cement out of a soft wall. Plenty of that Sixpenny Handley brickwork has been repointed in sand and cement since. Once the joints are sealed the moisture leaves through the brick face instead, and one hard frost up here takes the faces off while the pointing still looks perfect. Cutting that out without damaging what is left is slow hand work, and it is the only repair that actually fixes the cause rather than the symptom.
Flint with brick quoins and lacing courses. The older walling in Sixpenny Handley is flint rubble through the body with brick at the corners, around the openings and in courses running through to level it up. Flint has almost no bond of its own, so the lime is doing all the work, and once the head of the wall lets water in the flints loosen from the top down. We take out what has worked free, rebed it in a fat lime, gallet the joints with small chips the way the wall was built and put the coping back so the top sheds water instead of holding it.
Faces that have spalled. Once the face is off a Sixpenny Handley brick, each frost takes another layer. We cut the unit out whole and bed a matched replacement in rather than filling the hollow with mortar, which never matches and drops out in a couple of winters. It goes worst under cills, beside downpipes and in the bottom few courses where a path has been laid up against the wall.
Stacks and flaunching. A Sixpenny Handley stack has weather on four sides and a cold flue up the middle, so it goes friable long before the walls do, and open joints up there put water into a roof space rather than onto a wall. Repointing above the roof line, cutting out perished brick and renewing the cracked flaunching around the pots is a single visit if it is planned as one, and three visits if it is not.
How it runs
Repointing a cottage or flint wall, one stage at a time

You call, and Thomas Hannen travels out from Boscombe to Sixpenny Handley to see the wall himself. He scratches at the old joints to find how soft they are, looks for spalled brick faces and loose flints, and works out what the original mortar was. On an old wall that is usually lime, and the new work needs to match it in strength and colour.
You get a written, itemised quote: access, raking out, the mix, the area of each elevation, any brick replacement, and waste. One company sees it from start to finish. On a Sixpenny Handley cottage, joints are raked out by hand where the brick is soft, because a disc cuts the edges and widens the joint. Nothing is left raked and open overnight in wet weather, fresh work is covered to cure, and the site is swept daily. If a panel is in poorer shape once it is opened, Thomas photographs it and prices it before we go on.
A matching repoint is a repair, which means no planning application and nothing for building control. The village has no conservation area, but the Cranborne Chase National Landscape puts design under scrutiny for anything seen from the road, and a grey cement joint on an old wall changes its look. On a listed wall, the mortar colour and joint profile both need listed building consent from Dorset Council.
Cost
Why the joints, not the wall size, set the repointing price

Repointing in Sixpenny Handley has no rate per square metre. You cannot know what a wall will take until someone has looked closely at the joints.
Setting up. A pair of Sixpenny Handley cottages sharing one chimney, an outbuilding behind a house, and a flint wall on a roadside bank all need different access. A chimney or gable needs a scaffold, and a low garden wall needs nothing. The work at height rules are why access has its own line.
The depth of the rake. Joints need raking back to sound mortar, usually around twice as deep as the joint is wide. Where old repairs were done in hard cement, it has to be cut out carefully without damaging the brick.
Lime and matching. A lime mortar is slower to mix, lay and cure than cement, and it needs protecting from frost and hot sun while it sets. On most walls built before the First World War it is the right mix. Matching the colour of the sand takes trial panels.
Spalled bricks. Each brick with its face gone is cut out and replaced with a matching one, and they are counted one by one.
When you compare quotes, ask how deep the joints will be raked and whether by hand, what mix is going in and how it was matched, and whether the scaffold is included.
If water is getting in
Damp inside because the pointing has washed out

If damp is showing on the inside of an outside wall after rain, the joints may have opened up enough to let driven rain through. On a chimney it can also be getting past the flashings. You do not need to do anything yourself beyond keeping furniture away from the wet patch.
On the first visit we look at the wall, sheet it or put a temporary point into the worst joints if the weather is bad, and price the repointing once the wall has dried enough to show what is sound. Flints dropping out of a boundary wall after a wet spell are worth a call too. Scheduled jobs run Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. Phone about this instead of using the form, and if we miss you we call back.
Worth knowing
The fire left brick beside flint on one street
Much of the middle of Sixpenny Handley was rebuilt after the fire of the 1890s, and the practical result is that Handley has two quite different kinds of wall standing side by side, sometimes in the same building.
What went up after the fire is late Victorian brick in a soft, lime gauged mortar. What survived is older and softer again: flint through the body with brick at the corners, laid in a fat lime that has no strength to spare. From a car they read as one street. They do not take the same mix.
That matters because a mortar has to be weaker than what it sits between, and weaker is not one number. Point the older flint work in a mix that suits Victorian brick and you have put something too hard into a wall whose only strength is its mortar. Point the Victorian brick in a mix soft enough for flint and it erodes back inside a few winters and you pay for the elevation twice. So the first thing we settle here is which wall is in front of us, at each elevation rather than at each address, because a rebuilt frontage sitting on an older rear wall is common. Ask anyone quoting you to write down which mix is going on which face. If the answer is one mix for the whole building, nobody has looked properly.
Who you are dealing with
Who repoints walls in and around Sixpenny Handley
From our base in Boscombe we travel 17.1 miles to Sixpenny Handley, and cover Pentridge, Woodyates, Tollard Royal and Cranborne too. Dorset Council is the planning authority. You deal with Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, company number 15471719, registered in England and Wales. Before you book a visit in Sixpenny Handley, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
The business belongs to Thomas Hannen, who prices every repointing job himself, so the person scratching at your joints is the one who writes the quote. We hold a verified 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The site visit and the written, itemised quote cost you nothing.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Sixpenny Handley?
Most repairs in Sixpenny Handley need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Sixpenny Handley |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Sixpenny Handley. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Sixpenny Handley, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Sixpenny Handley. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | Inside the Cranborne Chase & West Wiltshire Downs National Landscape (formerly AONB), so anything visible from outside gets more attention. |
Questions
Questions about repointing in Sixpenny Handley
How do we tell which of the two walls we have?
Mostly by looking at what is under the render or the paint, and by what the mortar is made of. Flint rubble with brick corners is the older build. An even brick elevation with regular coursing is generally post fire. Plenty of buildings are both, front and back. We settle it at the survey by scraping a joint on each elevation, because that is the only way to be sure.
Can one mortar mix do the whole house?
Only if the whole house is one kind of wall, and here that is often not the case. The mix has to be weaker than the material either side of it, and flint and Victorian brick do not want the same thing. Where a building is mixed we specify a mix per elevation and put both on the quote so you can see what is going where.
Does the frost up here really take more off a wall?
It takes more off a wall that is holding water, which is what an open or a sealed joint both do in different ways. Height and exposure mean colder nights and more of them, so a face that has been letting water stand in the joints all autumn loses more surface over a winter than the same wall in a sheltered valley would. The fix is not a harder mortar, it is a joint that sheds.
How deep should the joints be raked out?
As a rule of thumb about twice the width of the joint, so a ten millimetre joint comes back around twenty. But the real answer is until you reach sound material, and on old work that varies across one elevation. Raking too shallow leaves the new mortar with nothing to grip and it falls out. Ask whoever is quoting what depth they are working to and whether it is by hand.
Will a lime joint look pale beside the rest of the wall?
It will for a while, and then it will not. Fresh mortar always reads lighter than aged mortar, which is why a sample panel is judged on how it will weather rather than on how it looks the week it goes in. Matching the sand is what gets it right in the long run, since that is where most of the colour comes from.
Nearby, and next door
Repointing near Sixpenny Handley
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Lime or cement mortar: which do you need? Reading a repointing quote: rake out Listed building consent for repointing and re-renderingEverything we do in Verwood Repointing, all areas Every area we cover
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Thomas comes up, scrapes a joint on every elevation and puts the price in writing, itemised, at no cost to you.
