Lime repointing on the old walls of Ashmore

Joints raked by hand and pointed back in a lime mortar matched to the wall, on the cottages, outbuildings and lane walls around the village.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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An old wall in Ashmore needs repointing when the lime joints have gone soft and sandy, flints or bricks are loosening, or water stands in the recesses after rain. The job is raking out by hand and refilling in a natural hydraulic lime, and timing matters as much as the mix: lime that meets a hard frost before it has taken up never hardens. A bulging flint wall wants taking down and rebuilding instead.

The walls up here that want pointing are mostly old ones: a cottage, an outbuilding, a barn or a wall running along a lane, seldom anything modern.

The faults on Ashmore walls are consistent. Joints washed back on the elevation that faces the weather. Brick and flint faces flaking after a cold snap, almost always where the wall was repointed in cement in the last fifty years. A stack with the mortar gone out of the top courses. We look at the whole building, not just the patch you noticed, scratch a few joints to find where crumbling, friable material stops and sound mortar starts, tap for the hollow note that means the pointing has parted from the wall, and photograph every face. You get a written itemised quote, and if a wall wants leaving alone for now the quote says so. The site visit and the quote are free.

The work

Old walls, lime, and what each one needs

Repointing a brick wall by hand, mortar being struck into a raked-out joint (illustrative photo for repointing in Ashmore)
Struck by handOne joint at a time, filled and struck so the face sheds water. Illustrative photo.

Lime pointing on solid walls. An old wall in Ashmore has no cavity. It keeps the weather out by being thick and dries through its own surface, so the pointing has to stay more open and absorbent than the material around it: a breathable wall.

Joints come out by hand, never with a disc cutter or angle grinder, to roughly twice their width and back to sound mortar rather than a set depth. Back in goes an NHL, a natural hydraulic lime, with a well graded sharp sand matched to what came out, finished flush or slightly recessed rather than the weather struck or bucket handle profiles you see on later work. Joints are damped down before filling, brushed back once the mix has taken up, then kept covered for days, not hours.

Undoing a cement repoint. This is the repair Ashmore walls need most, because it is the most damaging thing done to them. A hard sand and cement joint over soft handmade brick or flint stops the wall breathing, so water leaves through the face instead and the first sharp frost lifts it off in flakes. Spalling like that usually arrives with penetrating damp on the inside face after a wet spell, and the two have the same cause. You can spot it from the lane: joints standing slightly proud of a wall whose faces have gone hollow. Taking that out without widening the joint is patient work, and blown bricks are cut out and turned, or replaced with reclaimed stock against a sample held on the wall.

Flint panels and brick dressings. Where a wall is flint with brick quoins, arches and cills, the two want handling differently in one elevation. Flint is bedded rather than coursed, so raking to a fixed depth takes the bedding out from under the stones and loosens more than it fixes. We judge that face by face, re-bed loose flints, put the galleting back where the original had it, and cut out brickwork only where the face has gone. The mix for a flint panel carries a coarser aggregate, because the joints are wider and a fine mortar shrinks back and cracks as it cures.

Stacks and the courses above the roof. An Ashmore stack stands in clear air with weather on all four sides and nothing warming it from inside, so it carries the tiredest mortar on the building. Repointing above the flashing, cutting out perished brick and renewing the flaunching around the pots is normally the whole job. A tower will sometimes reach a low outbuilding stack, anything on a main ridge is work at height off a scaffold, and that is why access is priced on its own line.

Lane walls and copings. Lane walls in Ashmore have been clipped, rooted and rained on for a very long time and nearly all fail from the top down. Once a coping loses its bedding the water goes into the core of the wall and the frost does the rest. Repointing the coping and the exposed top courses early is quick work next to rebuilding a bowed length later.

How it runs

Lime repointing, first visit to final brush down

Raked-out joints on a red brick pier being filled with fresh mortar (one of our own jobs, shown for repointing in Ashmore)
Raked back firstDepth before filling. A disc widens the joint and takes the arris off. Photo from one of our own jobs.

A wall built with lime has to be repointed with lime, and the match is the job. Thomas studies every elevation, takes a pinch of the old mortar so the sand and colour can be matched, and prices it himself. His written quote sets out access, raking out, the mortar mix, the area of every elevation, replacement bricks, and waste. One elevation is raked, pointed and brushed back before the next is opened.

We rake out by hand, with no grinder, so the edges of old bricks survive. New lime sits under hessian, shaded from sun, wind and frost while it cures, and we never point into a wall that is about to freeze. At 19.7 miles out the work is booked in whole days. The site is swept daily and the spoil goes with us. If spalled bricks or a crack turn up, work stops until you have seen a photo and a price.

Repointing like for like is repair, with no application and nothing for building control. Appearance is the question. Ashmore is in the Ashmore Conservation Area, so a change of mortar colour or joint profile on a visible wall is a change the council may take an interest in. On a listed building, listed building consent from Dorset Council is needed even for repointing.

Cost

What sets the cost of repointing an old wall

Brick corner with a moulded plinth course, mortar matched to the original work (illustrative photo for repointing in Ashmore)
Matched, not guessedColour, sand and joint profile picked up from what is already there. Illustrative photo.

We never price repointing by the square metre; the state of the joints decides the hours. Joint depth. Joints have to be raked back to sound mortar. Shallow failure is quick, but joints washed out deep on a weather side take far longer.

By hand. Raking out lime by hand is slow. An angle grinder saves time but opens the joint up and knocks the arris off, and on old soft brick that damage shows for good.

The mix. Too strong a mix holds water against soft brick, and the face comes off in the first hard frost. A lime mix matched for sand and colour costs more in time than an off-the-shelf mortar.

Spalled faces. Bricks with blown faces are cut out and replaced with reclaimed matches, counted one by one.

Getting to it. A thatched cottage with a stack on the ridge, a flint and brick wall along a lane and an outbuilding up a farm track each need different access. Under the work at height rules the scaffold has to be a line of its own rather than tucked into a rate.

Put these points to anyone else: the depth of raking and the tool used, the mix and how it was matched, the number of replacement bricks, and whether scaffold is included.

If water is getting in

Rain getting through open joints

Stone gable with the joints repointed in a lime mortar (illustrative photo for repointing in Ashmore)
Stone wants limeOn rubble stone the mortar is most of the surface, and it has to breathe. Illustrative photo.

If a damp patch shows on an inside wall after driven rain, the pointing outside that wall is the first suspect, and on a chimney the water finds the flashings too. Ring us instead of using the enquiry form.

We find the entry point, sheet the worst of it, and price the elevation once it is dry enough to judge. In Ashmore it is often the stack or the most exposed gable. If frost is forecast we will not put lime into an open joint; we sheet it and come back when it is safe to point. Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm, are our scheduled hours. Should nobody answer, we return the call as soon as we are able.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Lime has a season, and up here it is a short one

Ashmore sits higher than any village in Dorset, on the top of the chalk where the Chase runs out, and that changes the calendar of a lime job more than the specification. Lime does not go off the way cement does.

It takes up slowly and hardens over months by taking carbon dioxide out of the air, and while green it is vulnerable to frost, which expands the water in the joint and turns the mortar to powder, and to a drying wind, which pulls the water out before the mix has set. Both arrive earlier and stay longer at this height, and the wind up here has nothing in its way.

So the pointing season on the top of the Chase is shorter than most people expect. We work lime in Ashmore from spring through to early autumn, stop when frosty nights are forecast, and sheet finished elevations and hang damp hessian for days so they cure slowly instead of flashing off in the wind. If somebody offers to point an old wall up here in December, ask what they will do about frost protection, and read the published guidance on lime and cement mortars before accepting an answer that amounts to putting cement in the mix to make it go off quicker. That is the shortcut behind most of the damage on these walls.

Who you are dealing with

Who repoints your wall

Repointing in Ashmore, and in the villages along the top of Cranborne Chase towards Tollard Royal and Fontmell Magna, is 19.7 miles from our base in Boscombe. Ashmore and Fontmell Magna come under Dorset Council, and Tollard Royal, over the county line, under Wiltshire Council.

We are Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, a company registered in England and Wales under number 15471719, and the person who samples your mortar and prices the wall is the owner, Thomas Hannen. Checkatrade shows a 10 out of 10 left by a verified customer. The visit is free, and the written quote, itemised by line, is free as well. Before you book a visit in Ashmore, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Ashmore?

Most repairs in Ashmore need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Ashmore, from council and national records.
Question In Ashmore
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Ashmore. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area Yes: Ashmore Conservation Area. Check whether your street is inside the boundary before changing anything visible.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Ashmore. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape Inside the Cranborne Chase & West Wiltshire Downs National Landscape (formerly AONB), so anything visible from outside gets more attention.

Questions

Questions about repointing in Ashmore

Is there a cut off date in the autumn for lime work at this height?

Between about April and September, earlier if the elevation is exposed. Lime hardens slowly and stays vulnerable to frost for weeks after it goes in, and this is the highest village in Dorset, so the first frosts arrive sooner. We will survey and quote in winter and book for spring.

Our wall was pointed in cement. Does all of it have to come out?

Usually yes on the elevations causing the damage, and properly rather than in patches: leaving a band of cement in a lime repointed wall moves the problem to that band. Where a hard repoint is sound, sheltered and doing no visible harm we say so and leave it.

Will the conservation area dictate what colour our joints end up?

No, it controls how the work looks. It does not stop it happening. Putting the same mortar back in the same profile is maintenance. Changing the colour or striking the joints differently on an elevation visible from a lane is a change of appearance, and on a listed building the mortar needs consent first.

How do you match a mortar on a wall this old?

We take a sample of sound original mortar from somewhere sheltered, look at the sand for colour and grain, and make up a trial panel on a discreet part of the wall. It is left a few days before you judge it, because lime lightens as it dries, and it is judged on how it will read with a few years of weathering on it.

Free quote

Get the mortar looked at while the season is open

Thomas comes out, samples the original mortar, photographs every face and sends an itemised written price. Free.