Insulation in Ashmore

Loft depth put back, breathable materials on old fabric, floors and draughts dealt with, and straight advice on what a solid wall will take, across Ashmore and SP5.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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In an old Ashmore cottage the loft and the draughts are where the money goes, and the walls are where people get into trouble. A solid wall built to breathe will hold damp behind the wrong lining, so we insulate what can safely be insulated first and tell you honestly where to stop.

Up here on the chalk the wind finds everything. On a house like this the questions about insulation are usually about a room over an unheated space that never gets comfortable, oil going through faster every winter, or whether wall insulation is a good idea in a house of this age. The wall question is a fair one, and the answer depends entirely on how the wall was built.

So we come and look before anybody talks about materials. Up into the roof space, a proper measure of what depth is there, a look at how the ceilings are built, a check on the floors and the draughts, and photographs of all of it.

Then a written itemised quote with each part on its own line, so you can do the loft this year and think about the rest. The survey and the quote are free, and if the sensible answer is to spend the money on draughtproofing rather than anything grand, that is what we will put in writing.

The work

Breathable build-ups, on walls that have to dry

Celotex rigid insulation boards fitted between roof rafters (one of our own jobs, shown for insulation in Ashmore)
Boards between raftersCut tight, with the ventilation gap kept clear behind. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Old roofs, and holding the depth at the eaves. Roofs cut on site have joists that are rarely regular and often shallow, and plenty of them have no membrane under the tiles at all.

That makes for a well ventilated roof space and a draughty one, and loose laid wool at the edges gets scoured by wind coming in over the wall plate. We work mineral wool, ordinary eco roll, between the joists and cross lay over the top to reach around 270mm, the depth that takes a ceiling to the 0.16 U-value Approved Document L asks for at ceiling level when a pitched roof is renovated. Just as important, we hold the wool out at the eaves so the depth is real all the way to the wall, and keep a clear air path above it so the timbers stay dry. Where a ceiling is lath and plaster we lay from boards, because those ceilings will take insulation but they will not take a boot.

Breathable build-ups, on walls that have to dry. A solid stone, brick or flint wall sheds moisture by letting it move through and evaporate. Wrap the inside in foil faced PIR and you push that damp back into the wall and into the timber ends buried in it. On buildings like these we favour breathable build-ups: sheep wool or wood fibre quilt in a floor or a roof slope, wood fibre board and a lime finish where an internal lining is wanted, and no vapour tight layer on anything that has to dry inwards. The newer houses at the edge of the village do have a cavity wall, and that gets a borescope check first. A room in the roof here rarely has the rafter depth for a modern build-up, so the honest options are rigid board as thick as the rafters allow, a multi-layer foil quilt such as TLX where even that will not fit, or a partial improvement with the rest of the budget in the flat ceilings. What we will not do is pack a slope solid with no ventilation gap and leave the rafter feet to rot quietly for ten years.

Suspended timber ground floors can be insulated between the joists from below where there is crawl space, with the air bricks left completely clear. Sealing the gaps around floorboards, doors, hatches and an open flue often does more for how a room feels than any amount of extra depth in the loft, and with oil heating common out in Ashmore, off the gas main, a draught costs more than it does in town. Then an insulated and sealed hatch, lagging on any pipe run through a cold roof space, covers over downlighters, and vent trays where the eaves need holding open.

How it runs

Insulating an older house in Ashmore, in the right order

Mineral wool insulation being pushed into place between timber studs on an internal wall (illustrative photo for insulation in Ashmore)
Insulating a wallMineral wool cut to a friction fit, so there is no gap at the edge. Illustrative photo.

On an older solid-walled house the order matters: loft first, then draughts, and walls only once the wall is understood, because the wrong material on a wall that needs to breathe causes damp. Thomas looks at the loft, the walls and the ventilation himself and prices it. His quote shows the survey, clearing out what is there, the new material and how deep it goes, ventilation, and taking away the waste. The old comes out, the new goes down.

Lofts on older houses can be low and awkward, with the hatch on a narrow landing. We sheet the landing and stairs, bag old material as it comes out, and leave each room clean. Materials arrive in one delivery where the lane allows. If we find damp timber, wiring buried in old insulation or no eaves ventilation at all, it is photographed and priced for you before anything is added.

Insulating a loft calls for no planning application and no building control notice, which Planning Portal guidance on insulation sets out. Anything that alters the outside, external wall insulation above all, is a planning question first: Ashmore has twenty six listed entries and the village is inside the Ashmore Conservation Area. We say plainly when a job needs an application. At present, insulation fitted in a home is zero rated for VAT.

Cost

What sets the price of insulating an older home

Loft room dry-lined and taped between and under the rafters, with a rooflight above (illustrative photo for insulation in Ashmore)
A loft, lined and tapedInsulated between and under the rafters, then boarded and taped. Illustrative photo.

Insulating an older home in Ashmore has no rate per square metre, because the area is the easy part. Getting into the roof. A cottage with the hatch on a narrow landing, a farmhouse with roof voids that do not connect, and a newer house with a drop down ladder are different jobs before any material is opened.

What is up there. Damp or dirty old material is lifted out and bagged, and stored boxes moved and put back, before anything new goes down.

A wall that has to dry. Solid stone, flint or brick walls need breathable insulation such as wood fibre or mineral wool with a vapour open finish, not foam board. That costs more than cavity fill, because there is no cavity to fill.

The standard. Approved Document L sets what the work must reach, and on a listed house what can be done is agreed with the council first.

Exposure. An open, high site loses heat to the wind, so draughts at the eaves, the hatch and the floor are worth sealing, while the ventilation the roof needs is kept open.

Ask any quote what depth goes down, what material is used on a wall that has to dry, and whether the eaves are held open.

If it is urgent

Condensation, mould or a room that stays cold

A dripping loft, mould that comes back as fast as you wash it off, or a room that never gets warm is worth a phone call rather than the form. A leak is more urgent, but wet timbers and mould get worse the longer they sit.

The first visit works out whether it is missing insulation, poor ventilation or both, and whether the wrong material has gone onto a solid wall. Meanwhile, open a window after cooking and bathing and keep furniture a little off cold walls. Ashmore is nearly twenty miles out, so we are straight about the day. Scheduled work is Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm, and if the phone is not answered, we call you back at the earliest opportunity.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

The conservation area decides what you can do to the outside

Loft conversion insulated with foil-faced boards and mineral wool around a Velux window (one of our own jobs, shown for insulation in Ashmore)
Around a rooflightThe awkward edges are where the heat actually goes. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Ashmore has its own conservation area and a lot of listed buildings in a small village, which is unusual even on this part of the chalk. For insulation that matters in one direction more than any other: work you cannot see is generally straightforward, and work that changes the face of a building generally is not. Loft insulation, floor insulation and draughtproofing sit in the first group.

External wall insulation sits firmly in the second, and on a listed cottage internal linings can also affect historic fabric, so consent can be needed for work that is entirely indoors. Dorset Council explains what needs listed building consent and it is worth a look before you order anything.

The practical route in a village like this is the one that respects how the buildings were made. Get the roof space to full depth, insulate the ground floor if there is a void under it, seal the draughts, lag everything in a cold space, and make the windows and doors work properly.

That takes most of the sting out of a cold cottage without touching the outside of it or trapping moisture in a wall that was never designed to be sealed. If a wall lining still looks worth doing after that, it should be a breathable one, detailed around the joist ends and window reveals, and checked against the listing first. We would rather have that conversation on the doorstep than halfway through the job.

Who you are dealing with

Who insulates your house

We insulate homes in Ashmore, Sixpenny Handley, Tollard Royal, Iwerne Minster and the Cranborne Chase villages, 19.7 miles from our base in Boscombe. For planning and building control, the authority is Dorset Council. Behind the work is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, company number 15471719, registered in England and Wales. Before you book a visit in Ashmore, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Before any price is written, Thomas Hannen, the owner, looks at your loft and walls himself. Checkatrade lists a verified customer's 10 out of 10 for us. The site visit and the written, itemised quote are free.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Ashmore?

Most repairs in Ashmore need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Ashmore, from council and national records.
Question In Ashmore
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Ashmore. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area Yes: Ashmore Conservation Area. Check whether your street is inside the boundary before changing anything visible.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Ashmore. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape Inside the Cranborne Chase & West Wiltshire Downs National Landscape (formerly AONB), so anything visible from outside gets more attention.

Questions

Questions about insulation in Ashmore

Would the conservation area allow insulation rendered onto the outside?

Not as a free choice. Ashmore Conservation Area controls how the village looks, so like for like maintenance passes and a change of material does not. A rendered jacket over a wall alters the depth of every reveal and the line of every eave, which is exactly what the designation exists to catch.

Inside is a different question: a loft, a floor or an internal lining changes nothing anyone can see from the lane. Dorset Council decides, before anything is ordered.

We heat from an oil tank. Does insulation matter more?

It matters more than it would on a gas main. A lot of households around Ashmore run on oil, and some on electricity, so the heat is bought in one go and watched going down in a tank. The fabric decides how much heat you need; the fuel only decides how you pay for it. A ceiling that leaks is a tank that empties sooner. The loft is the simplest part of the fabric to put right.

Our cottage is listed. What can actually be done to it?

The loft floor, in nearly every case. Ashmore carries 26 listed entries in a very small village, so much of the work here needs consent. A listing reaches the inside of a building as well as the outside, which is why lining a sloping ceiling or an internal wall is a design question before it is a building one. Quilt laid over the joists of a cold roof space alters nothing that is protected.

What do you look at first inside an Ashmore loft?

Which side of the heritage line the house sits on, because with a conservation area over the village and 26 listed entries in it, that changes what we can propose. After that: the wall plate, whether the ceiling below is lath and plaster and will not carry a boot, where the chimney passes through, and daylight. Burying a hole under new material only delays the winter you find it. Then Thomas measures and writes it up.

Is midwinter the wrong time to have this done?

Midwinter is when people notice it and a perfectly workable time to do it. The work is dry and it is indoors, so nothing about it waits on the weather. The one thing we watch on ground as exposed as Ashmore is wind: with the most exposed wall facing south west, an open hatch on a gusty day moves loose fibre round the roof space. We work with it closed between loads and clear the space at the end.

Free quote

Get a price for insulating your Ashmore cottage

Tell us the address and what the house does in a cold week. We will look at the roof space, the floors and the draughts, and put an itemised price in writing. No charge and no obligation.