Repointing a terrace in Three Legged Cross
Mortar matched to the original rather than to the last repair, and the day's work stopped where the eye will not find it.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
Last updated
Your joints are due when they have pitted or opened at the brick edge, crumble under a key, or sound hollow along a course. Repointing one house in a run of four is a matching job before it is a mortar job: Three Legged Cross has a lot of continuous frontage for its size, so the new joint is raked, filled and struck to match next door's. Bricks with blown faces need cutting out and replacing.
The fault on a Three Legged Cross house is usually something small getting slowly worse. Joints on the front gone back far enough to catch a fingernail. Sand on the path below a wall. A brick face flaking under a sill. A damp mark inside on the elevation that takes the driven rain. A stack dropping grit into the gutter.
All of it is mortar and none of it is urgent in the way people fear. The survey walks each elevation of a Three Legged Cross house rather than the one you rang about, scrapes joints on every face to find how deep the decay has run, taps the courses for the hollow note of pointing that has parted from the brick, and photographs the lot. Back it comes as a written itemised quote, elevation by elevation, saying which faces are due and which we would leave, free.
The work
Matching a joint across a run of houses

Seventies and eighties outer skins. Nearly every home in Three Legged Cross dates from after 1945, so nearly everything is cavity work: one skin of fired brick in cement and sand, weather struck or bucket handle. Mortar of that age does not wash out the way a soft old joint does.
It pits and opens at the arris, water stands in the hollow, and one hard frost takes flakes off the brick either side. Matching means matching the sand and the gauge as well as the colour, so a trial panel goes up somewhere discreet and you judge it in daylight first.
Terraces and shared elevations. There are terraces and flats in Three Legged Cross too, which for a settlement this small is a great deal of unbroken brickwork. That changes how a job is planned, not how it is done. We decide where a day's pointing stops without leaving a visible line, usually at a downpipe or the party line, and keep one person striking a given elevation so the profile does not drift. Where the building is flats, the external walls belong to the block and the freeholder instructs the work.
Raking out, filling and finishing. Joints come back to twice their width, perpends by hand. A disc cutter is quick along a bed joint and also how a wall ends up with widened perpends and its arrises taken off, so it stays in the van on anything soft. Joints are damped down before filling so the mix cures rather than flashing off, then brushed back once the mortar has taken up and been struck to the profile the wall already carries.
Blown brick faces. A spalled face on a Three Legged Cross wall is cut out whole and the brick turned or replaced against a sample held on the wall rather than filled with mortar, which never matches the colour or texture. Frost damage collects under sills, beside downpipes and just above the damp proof course where a drive has been built up against the house.
Stacks and anything at height. A chimney in Three Legged Cross has weather on four sides and nothing warming it, so its joints go loose and friable years ahead of the walls below and the penetrating damp shows on a top floor ceiling. Stacks want a scaffold, not a tower, priced on its own line. Bungalows are common here, so plenty of walls come off a tower instead.
The rare old wall. Very little in Three Legged Cross predates 1919, but where a building is solid wall rather than cavity the answer changes: an NHL lime or lime putty mix matched to the original sand, so the wall stays breathable and keeps its route for losing water. A hard modern mix on a soft old wall is the quickest way to lose the brick faces.
How it runs
Raking out and repointing an elevation, the way we do it

Thomas Hannen comes out and prices the job himself. He looks at the joints, scrapes a few to see how deep they have gone, and checks whether the old mortar is harder or softer than the brick.
On a seventies or eighties house in Three Legged Cross the mortar is usually cement, and the brick is a hard facing brick that copes with it. The quote is itemised: access, raking out, the mortar mix, the area of each elevation, any bricks cut out and replaced, and disposal.
Joints are raked out to a proper depth, brushed and damped, then filled and struck to match the joint profile on the rest of the house. The estate roads and drives in Three Legged Cross make it easy to put a tower against a gable. Nothing is left half raked overnight in wet weather. Dust and waste leave with us. Where more bricks have spalled than showed from the ground, you see them in a photo, with the cost of replacing them, before any are cut out.
Repointing in matching materials counts as repair. Nobody needs to apply for planning, and building control has no part in it. The village has no conservation area and just one listed entry, so for nearly every home the mix and the joint finish are a technical decision. Dorset Council is the authority, and listed building consent only matters on that single listed building. If the wall is shared, check the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 before a tower goes up.
Cost
Joint depth, mix and access: pricing a repoint

We never price by the square metre, because until someone has scraped the joints, the area of the wall says very little. Which faces. A gable end facing the weather, a chimney stack and the lower courses by a drive are usually the worst.
Doing one elevation is a different job from the whole house. On a bungalow we work from a tower. Chimneys and two storey gables take scaffolding, a separate line because of the work at height rules. A block of flats with one long wall is a bigger set up again.
How far back the joints have gone. Shallow weathering is quick. Joints that have eroded deep, or that someone has already patched with a thin smear of cement, take much longer to rake out properly, and that is where the hours are.
The mortar. On modern facing brick a cement and sand mix is normal. On the few older cottages in Three Legged Cross a softer lime mortar may be right, because a hard mix traps water in a soft brick and the face spalls in frost.
Spalled bricks. Each one cut out and replaced adds time, and matching is part of it.
Worth asking anyone else: how deep will the joints be raked, is it by hand or disc, and what mix is going in.
If water is getting in
Open joints letting damp through a gable wall

Call instead of using the form. When joints have washed out, driven rain goes through the brick to the inside, and damp patches appear on the plaster of an end wall or around a chimney breast. On a chimney it can get behind the flashings as well.
We come and look, sheet or point the worst joints if more rain is due, and price the elevation once it has dried enough to see what is sound. Our normal hours for booked work are Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. If you get no answer, we ring you as soon as we can.
Worth knowing
On a terrace, the joint you choose belongs to everybody
For a settlement of this size there is an unusual amount of continuous frontage at Three Legged Cross, between the terraced housing and the flats. That matters for repointing in a way it does not on a detached house, because the wall does not stop at your boundary.
A mortar mixed a shade greyer, or a joint struck a few millimetres deeper, carries straight on to the next front door and reads from the pavement as a line down the brickwork.
None of that means waiting for anybody. It does mean a little groundwork first. Take the mortar sample from your own elevation rather than from a repair somebody else has made, so you match the original instead of copying a mismatch. And if a neighbour is likely to point their half in the next few years, tell them what mix and profile you have settled on. It costs nothing now and saves an argument later, which is why we write both into the quote.
Who you are dealing with
Repointing across Three Legged Cross and nearby villages
From our base in Boscombe it is about nine miles to Three Legged Cross, and we also cover Verwood, West Moors, Alderholt and the roads towards Ringwood. Dorset Council is the council for all of it.
Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, is run by its owner, Thomas Hannen. Thomas scrapes the joints and prices the work himself. One verified customer rated us 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. Both the visit and the written quote, itemised line by line, are free. Before you book a visit in Three Legged Cross, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Three Legged Cross?
Most repairs in Three Legged Cross need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Three Legged Cross |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Three Legged Cross. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Three Legged Cross, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Three Legged Cross. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Three Legged Cross. |
Questions
Questions about repointing in Three Legged Cross
Our neighbour has already repointed and it looks wrong. What do we match?
The original is what we match, not the repair. We take a sample of sound mortar from a sheltered part of your own elevation and gauge the mix against that, because matching a neighbour's mismatch only doubles it. If their work is recent we will say so, since fresh mortar reads lighter for a season or two and some of what looks wrong now will not in a year.
If only our half of the terrace is being done, where do you stop?
At a natural break: a downpipe, a change of plane or the party line itself. Stopping halfway along a panel leaves a vertical seam that catches the eye every time, and no amount of matching hides it. We agree the stopping point at the quote stage, not on the last afternoon.
How long does new pointing need before rain matters?
A cement and sand mortar wants a few hours to take up and is settled by the next day, though heavy rain the same afternoon can wash the face of a joint. Lime needs much longer and has to be kept damp and covered while it cures. We sheet the working elevation if the forecast turns.
Should the joints be struck flush or bucket handle?
Whatever the wall already has, in almost every case. A bucket handle joint is slightly recessed and compressed, so it sheds water, and it is what most brickwork of this period was built with. A flush joint suits older solid walls. We avoid anything struck proud of the brick face, which leaves a ledge for water to stand on and changes the look of the elevation.
Nearby, and next door
Repointing near Three Legged Cross
Nearby places we also cover for repointing, with straight-line distances from Three Legged Cross, and the other trades we offer in Three Legged Cross itself.
Repointing nearby
Our other trades in Three Legged Cross
Repointing guides
Lime or cement mortar: which do you need? Reading a repointing quote: rake out Listed building consent for repointing and re-renderingEverything we do in Verwood Repointing, all areas Every area we cover
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Match the original mortar, not the last repair
Thomas takes a sample, tests the joints on every face, photographs the wall and sends a written itemised quote. Free either way.
