Repointing and brick face repairs in Wool

Eroded joints raked back and refilled in a matched mix, spalled faces cut out, and stacks repointed, across Wool, Bovington and East Burton.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

Last updated

Your joints are due when they have pitted or opened at the brick edge, crumble under a key, or damp shows inside a day after the weather. Most of Wool went up in one long stretch after the war, so most walls here are the same age, in the same cement and sand mortar, and the job is raking out the exposed elevation and matching that gauge. Brick faces that have spalled are cut out and rebuilt.

A Wool wall that is due usually shows it at the arris, on the brick face or indoors. Joints on a gable eroded back at the arris until the wall looks grooved, crumbling under a key. Brick faces spalling off in thin plates, usually low down or under a sill. And penetrating damp on an inside wall, turning up a day after the weather rather than while it rains.

None of that is a Wool wall coming down. It is all mortar, priced elevation by elevation. The site visit is a survey rather than a look: every face gets gone over, joints are scraped to see how far back the decay runs, and courses are tapped for the hollow note that means the pointing has parted from the brick. It comes back as a written itemised quote with the faces we would leave alone marked as such. The visit and the quote are free.

The work

Wool's post-war joints, and what they need

Repointing a brick wall by hand, mortar being struck into a raked-out joint (illustrative photo for repointing in Wool)
Struck by handOne joint at a time, filled and struck so the face sheds water. Illustrative photo.

Postwar cavity brickwork is the main stock. Most of the housing in Wool is a single outer skin of fired brick in cement and sand, struck weather struck or bucket handle. It does not wash out the way an old lime joint does: it pits and erodes back at the arris, water stands in the hollow that leaves, and one hard frost lifts the surface off in flakes.

On a Wool house the repair is to rake back to sound material, roughly twice the joint width, with the angle grinder left in the van because a disc cutter takes the arris off. The joints are damped down and brushed out before filling, and the mix is matched to the original for sand, gauge, colour and texture rather than colour alone. Plenty of mortar from that period had lime in it as well as cement, and matching that gauge is the difference between a joint that lasts and one that outlives the brick.

The older end of the village. A smaller share of Wool predates 1919 and is solid wall, one thickness with no cavity, sometimes brick and sometimes rubble stone with brick dressings. Those walls stay breathable by drying through the joint, so they get an NHL lime or lime putty matched to the original sand, as a Victorian or Edwardian wall anywhere would, and BS EN 459 is the standard the binder is bought against. Nothing shortens the life of one faster than hard cement pointing, and where that has been done we take it back out by hand.

Spalled faces, cut out and not filled. Filling a blown face with mortar leaves a dark patch that never matches and drops out in a couple of winters. We cut the brick out whole and turn it where the back is sound, or replace it against a sample held on the wall. On this stock the damage gathers just above the damp proof course where rain splashes back off a path, and under sills and beside downpipes.

Stacks, and the joints nobody can see. A chimney in Wool has weather on four sides and nothing warming it from inside, so its mortar goes friable and washes out long before the house walls need anything. That is the failure that costs the most, because open joints on a stack put water into the roof space and it comes out as a stain on a ceiling. It wants a scaffold, not a tower, so everything up there is worth doing in one visit.

Garden and boundary walls. Freestanding walls in Wool take weather on both faces and have no roof over them, so they fail from the top down. A lifted coping or an open bed joint lets the wall fill from above and the faces start letting go. Rebedding the top and repointing the first few courses is quick work next to a rebuild.

The finish, and matching it. The profile goes back as the wall carries it, which on Wool stock is usually bucket handle or weather struck rather than the fine flush or slightly recessed joints of older property. We make up a trial panel on a discreet part of the wall for you to look at in daylight.

The one job we turn down is pointing over movement. Cracking that steps along the joints every few courses is a footing or a corroded tie talking, not tired mortar, and filling it hides that for a season.

How it runs

Repointing a Wool gable or chimney, start to finish

Raked-out joints on a red brick pier being filled with fresh mortar (one of our own jobs, shown for repointing in Wool)
Raked back firstDepth before filling. A disc widens the joint and takes the arris off. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas comes out, looks closely at the joints, scrapes a few to see how deep the damage goes, and prices it himself.

The quote lists the access, raking out, the mortar mix and how we match it, the area of each elevation, any spalled bricks to replace, and waste. Soft brick is raked out by hand, not with a disc, so the edges are not chipped. New joints are protected from rain and frost while they cure, the ground is swept every day, and the old mortar leaves with us. If bricks behind the pointing are cracked, we photograph them and give you a price before replacing them.

Repointing like for like is repair, not development, so there is no planning application and nothing for building control to sign off. Appearance is where it changes. On a listed wall the mortar and joint finish are part of the protected fabric, so listed building consent has to be in place before a joint is opened. In the older village, a change of colour or joint profile may need permission if a conservation area covers you, which is worth checking with Dorset Council. We check an address before anybody starts.

Cost

What the price of repointing a Wool house comes down to

Brick corner with a moulded plinth course, mortar matched to the original work (illustrative photo for repointing in Wool)
Matched, not guessedColour, sand and joint profile picked up from what is already there. Illustrative photo.

The area of wall on its own tells you almost nothing until the joints have been looked at. Reaching it. A seventies semi with a gable that takes all the weather needs a scaffold. A bungalow comes off a tower or the ground. A garden wall needs no platform. The work at height rules set the access, and it is priced as its own line.

Depth and damage. How far the joints have to be raked back, and whether the brick faces have already spalled, decide the hours. The south west facing walls in Wool take the driving rain, and that is where joints wash out first.

The mortar. Estate brick takes a cement-based mix. Pre-1919 walls in the old village of Wool want lime, which is slower to work and slower to cure. A mix too strong for soft brick traps water, and frost then takes the face off.

Bricks to replace. Each spalled brick cut out and replaced, with a match found for colour, adds time.

Chimneys. A stack with open joints often needs its lead flashings looked at too.

Ask any other quote how deep the joints are raked and whether by hand, what the mix is and how it is matched, how many bricks are replaced, and whether the scaffold is included.

If water is getting in

Open joints letting driven rain through

Stone gable with the joints repointed in a lime mortar (illustrative photo for repointing in Wool)
Stone wants limeOn rubble stone the mortar is most of the surface, and it has to breathe. Illustrative photo.

If rain is coming through a wall or a damp patch shows after every storm, open joints are a likely cause, especially on a south west facing gable or a chimney, where the water can reach the flashings too. Pull furniture off the damp wall and note when it appears.

Pick up the phone to 07435 839745 instead of the form. If we do not answer, we get back to you as soon as we can. We look at the wall, sheet or temporarily point the worst of it, and price the full job once it has dried enough to see what is sound. Booked work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

One cohort of walls, all reaching the same stage together

Something over half of the housing in Wool was built between 1945 and 1982, the busiest years in the seventies and early eighties. Whole roads went up inside a few seasons of each other, to one specification, in one mortar.

That has a consequence people do not expect: the walls are not failing at random, they are failing together, and when one house in a run needs its west gable done the neighbours are usually within a year or two of the same thing.

To begin with, this is the wrong stock to specify lime on. Lime is right on a solid wall built to breathe and quietly wrong on hard fired postwar brick, where a soft joint erodes back faster than the wall it is in. Anyone quoting lime for a nineteen seventies gable without taking a sample is selling a story, not matching a wall. A word over the fence helps too: if two or three houses need the same elevation done, access is the part of the price that does not get cheaper by being split up, and one platform standing once is a different job from the same platform standing three times. We are happy to quote neighbouring properties separately off one visit.

Who you are dealing with

Who repoints in Wool, Coombe Keynes and along the Frome

We repoint in Wool, Bovington, East Burton, Winfrith Newburgh, Coombe Keynes and the villages along the Frome, broadly BH20. That is 17.1 miles from our base on Wolverton Road, and Dorset Council covers planning and building control.

You would deal with Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, England and Wales company number 15471719. It is Thomas Hannen’s firm, and he scrapes out a joint or two and prices the job himself rather than sending a salesman. Checkatrade shows a verified customer’s 10 out of 10. The visit and the written quote are free of charge. Before you book a visit in Wool, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Wool?

Most repairs in Wool need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Wool, from council and national records.
Question In Wool
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Wool. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area Yes: Wool Conservation Area. It covers part of Wool, so check whether your street is inside it.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Wool. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Wool.

Questions

Questions about repointing in Wool

Would lime be an upgrade on a postwar gable?

Lime would be the wrong material on a postwar gable in Wool, not a better one. Lime belongs on a solid wall that has to breathe through its joints. A postwar cavity wall is hard fired brick in cement and sand, and a soft lime joint in it wears back faster than the brick either side.

That wall wants a mix matched to the original for sand and gauge, sitting just under the strength of the brick. We take a sample before quoting.

The joints look worn but nothing is falling out. Is it due yet?

Get a key in one and see. If the mortar is sound a few millimetres back, you have time. If it crumbles under a light scrape, or a course sounds hollow when you tap along it, the pointing has parted from the brick and water is already getting behind. We test joints at low level on the visit and tell you which elevations can wait.

Why is the mortar sandy on one gable and fine everywhere else?

Because that gable takes the weather and the others do not. On this side of Dorset the driving rain comes from the south west, so one face of a house can be a decade ahead of the sheltered sides. It is why we price by elevation, not by building, and why doing the exposed face on its own is often the answer.

Our neighbour has the same wall and the same problem. Can you look at both?

Yes, and on a pair or a terrace here it usually makes sense, because so many of these walls are the same age and at the same stage. Access is the part of the price that does not shrink when a job is split up. We look at both properties on one visit and give each of you your own written quote.

What is bucket handle pointing, and does it have to go back?

A joint pressed into a shallow curve with a rounded tool, and what most postwar brickwork here carries. It sheds water well and compacts the surface of the mortar as it is struck, which is half the reason it lasts. It should go back as it was, partly because it works and partly because a wall with two profiles on it is obvious from the pavement.

Free quote

Find out which elevations are actually due

Thomas comes out, tests the joints, photographs every face and puts the price in writing, itemised, at no cost to you.