Patios in Wool, the estate concrete question

Over half the homes in Wool went up between 1945 and 1982, the era of the concrete apron and grey paving laid on dabs.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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Over half the houses in Wool went up between 1945 and the early eighties, and most of them got the same back garden treatment: a concrete slab or a set of grey paving squares laid straight onto the ground. Those patios are all reaching the end together, and the real question is whether the concrete comes out or gets used.

Across the estate in Wool the same failures repeat: a concrete apron cracked across and tilting back towards the house, and paving squares that rock, ring hollow and have moss growing out of every joint. There is also the owner who wants porcelain and has been told, correctly or not, that the old slab has to be dug out first.

We come to Wool and find out which it is. If the existing concrete is sound and at a level we can work with, laying over it saves a dig, a skip and several days. If not, it comes out. Either way you get a written itemised quote with the dig, the muck away, the base, the edgings, the slabs, the drainage and the jointing on separate lines, free of charge.

The work in the village

Over the old concrete, or out and start again

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Wool)
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Testing what is already down. The first thing is a proper look at the existing slab. We check it for movement, tap it for hollow areas, read the cracks for shrinkage or settlement, and take levels to see how much build up would have to be added. That is half an hour on site and it decides the price.

Overlaying a sound concrete base. Where the concrete is solid, well drained and low enough, porcelain goes straight over it on a full mortar bed with a slurry primer, and the falls are corrected in the bed. No dig, no spoil, no muck away. It only works where the level leaves two courses clear of the DPC at the end.

Taking it out. Where the slab rocks, has settled or sits too high, it gets broken up and excavated, along with any old hardcore and made ground under it, and taken away by the load. Tree roots and buried footings turn up more often than people expect.

Rebuilding the base. MOT Type 1 back in and whacked in thin lifts to full compaction, carried past the edge of the paving, with a geotextile separator underneath on soft ground. Then a full wet mortar bed under every slab. Dabs are what the original was laid on and dabs are why it rocks.

What goes on top. Porcelain is calibrated and consistent and needs no sealing, and a textured grade holds grip through a wet winter. Indian sandstone is riven and warmer and is bedded slab by slab. Limestone marks more easily, granite is the toughest, and travertine is for a sheltered corner.

Falls, the damp course and the door. Everything falls away from the house and finishes at least two courses below the DPC. On a 1970s house in Wool that is usually straightforward, and where a later extension has left a low threshold, a channel across the door with an outfall sorts it. Approved Document C covers why the level matters.

Where the water goes, and the edges. A channel to a gully with an outfall, a soakaway where the ground will take the runoff, or a permeable build up over open graded stone. Round the outside, a haunched edging or kerb into the lawn, a retaining edge and coping where the garden steps down, and steps with equal risers.

Jointing and repairs. Joints get a brush in compound worked wet and tooled off, or hand pointing on older stonework. Typical repairs cover lifted slabs, a sunk bay, rocking paving, cracked stone, algae, efflorescence on new sandstone and staining. A patch is honest work when the base is sound and a waste of money when it is not.

How it runs

A new patio behind a Wool semi or terrace

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Wool)
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas comes out, looks at the garden, how it is reached, the levels against the house and what is there now, and works out the price himself. Digging, laying and pointing all sit on one written quote.

The written quote splits out the dig and muck away, the sub base, the falls and where the water drains, edgings and steps, the slabs, and the jointing. Behind a Wool terrace everything may come through the house or a shared path, so we sheet the floors and agree a route first. An old concrete apron is broken out, not paved over, unless it is sound and at the right level. The garden is tidied every evening and the spoil goes with us. If old drains or made ground turn up, they are photographed and priced before we deal with them.

Ground level paving in a back garden is normally permitted development and needs no planning permission. A terrace raised well above the ground is a different case, so ask first. If yours is one of the older properties in Wool, Dorset Council can say whether a conservation area covers it; the council holds the conservation area and listed building records.

Cost

What the cost of a patio here comes down to

The slabs you choose are usually the smallest part of the bill. Getting in. A seventies semi with a side gate lets us barrow straight through. A terrace with only a shared path at the back means carrying every slab and bag. An older cottage in the centre of Wool may have steps and tight corners. The work at height rules still cover the dig and any machinery.

What comes out first. Many gardens in Wool have an old concrete apron or a slab path from when the house was built. Breaking that out, plus any raised beds or rubble, is priced by the load.

The clay. The ground shrinks and swells with the seasons. A thin base will crack and rock, so we dig deeper, compact the sub base in layers and lay slabs on a full wet bed rather than on dabs.

Levels. The patio must fall away from the house and sit at least two courses below the damp proof course. An old apron tilting back towards a Wool house is a common reason for damp inside, and putting the level right can mean steps, a retaining edge or a drainage channel.

The surface. Porcelain, sandstone and concrete slabs differ in price and in the jointing they need.

Ask any rival quote how deep the dig is, whether the slabs sit on a full bed, what the falls are and what jointing is used.

If it has become a hazard

A patio slab that has lifted or sunk

A slab lifted at one corner or a step that has dropped is a trip hazard, and a north facing Wool patio in winter can turn green and slippery. Mark the raised slab with a pot and keep off the slippery area. A cracked apron tilting towards the house is worth dealing with before winter.

Phone 07435 839745 rather than using the form. If we cannot take the call, we ring back as soon as we are free. We lift and re-bed the worst slab or step to make it safe, check whether the base under the rest has failed, and give you a written price for the rest. Scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

The estate concrete is all failing at once

The bulk of Wool was built in one long run after the war, with the peak in the 1970s and early eighties, and the back gardens were finished to the standard of the day. That meant a poured concrete apron outside the back door, or a set of pressed paving squares bedded on a few dabs of sand. Both were fine for a couple of decades. Both are now the same age.

The failures arrive together and they look alike from house to house in Wool. The concrete cracks where it was never jointed, then tips back towards the building because the ground under it has settled unevenly. The paving squares rock, the sand washes out of the joints, moss fills the gaps and one corner drops.

The useful part is that the answer is not the same for both. A concrete slab that is still flat and stable is a base somebody has already paid for, and porcelain laid over it on a full bed is quicker, cleaner and cheaper than digging it out. Paving on dabs is not a base at all and has to come up. So before you price a new patio in Wool, get somebody to tell you which of the two you have.

Who you are dealing with

Patios laid across Wool, Bovington and the Frome valley

We build patios in Wool, East Burton, Bovington and the villages along the Frome, broadly BH20. The drive from our base at 80a Wolverton Road, Boscombe, is 17.1 miles, and Dorset Council handles planning and building control.

Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, company number 15471719, is registered in England and Wales. It is run by Thomas Hannen, who walks your garden and prices the patio in person. We hold a 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade from one verified customer. There is no fee for the visit, and the written quote with each item priced is free. The concrete out the back often has a twin at the front, and a driveway in Wool raises the same question of whether it comes out. Before you book a visit in Wool, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Wool?

Most repairs in Wool need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Wool, from council and national records.
Question In Wool
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Wool. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area Yes: Wool Conservation Area. It covers part of Wool, so check whether your street is inside it.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Wool. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Wool.

Questions

Questions about patios in Wool

Can porcelain be laid over my existing concrete patio?

If the concrete is sound, stable and low enough to leave two courses clear of the damp course at the end, yes, on a full mortar bed with the slab primed. It saves the dig and the muck away. If it rocks or has settled, it has to come out.

How do I know whether the old concrete is still good?

Look at the cracks and listen to it. Fine shrinkage cracks in a slab that does not move are usually fine. A crack with a step in it, or a slab that gives underfoot, means the ground has gone and no amount of new paving fixes that.

Why do the paving squares in these gardens all rock?

Because they were bedded on dabs of sand, not a full bed. The sand washes out, the voids fill with water and frost does the rest. It is a construction fault instead of wearing, which is why re-laying the same way fails again.

Do you take the old patio away, or do I need a skip?

It leaves with us. Broken concrete and old paving go into a skip or a grab load booked before we start, and it appears on the quote as its own line rather than folded into a rate.

Will you do the patio in winter?

We work all year, but mortar will not go down onto frozen ground or into a hard frost, so a cold snap moves the laying rather than the digging. We would sooner shift a start date than bed slabs into a mix that will never gain strength.

Free quote

Find out whether your old slab can stay

Thomas comes out, tests the existing concrete, takes levels and prices both options in writing. The visit and the quote are free.