Patios in Stone
On the older walls around here there is no damp proof course to measure down from, so what goes against the wall matters as much as what you walk on.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
Last updated
At Stone, a patio against a pre-Victorian wall cannot be set two courses below a damp proof course, because there is not one. Keeping the level low and leaving a free draining gravel margin against the brickwork is what keeps the wall dry instead.
In Stone the patio work is a square of old flags that has settled, rocks underfoot and now sends water back towards the building, or a damp band inside a ground floor room that turns out to be a patio laid tight against a wall that was never meant to have one.
Neither is solved by better slabs. We come out to Stone, look at the wall as well as the ground, take a survey of the levels, and price the dig, the base, the margin against the wall, the drainage and the paving on separate lines in a written itemised quote. The site visit and the quote are free.
The work
Paving up to a wall with no damp course

Finding out what the wall is. Before anything is measured we look at the wall the paving will sit against. A cavity wall built after the war has a damp proof course you can see and work to. A solid wall from the 1800s very often has none at all, and that single difference decides how the whole patio is detailed.
Setting the level. Where a house in Stone has a damp course we chalk the DPC on the brickwork and finish two courses below it. Where there is not, the rule becomes keep the paving as low as the threshold allows, never let it bridge up the face of the wall, and give the wall somewhere to breathe rather than sealing it in.
The gravel margin. Against an old wall we leave a shingle border, two hundred millimetres or so wide, on a free draining bed rather than running mortar bedded slabs right up to the brick. Splashback lands in the gravel instead of on the wall, water drains straight down instead of tracking sideways, and the wall stays a great deal drier.
The dig and what leaves. Old concrete, flags bedded on sand, roots and, near the older buildings, made ground with rubble in it. It is excavated to formation and taken away. Access varies from open to awkward, so the quote says whether spoil goes by barrow through a side gate or by machinery into a skip.
Base and bed. Geotextile membrane, MOT Type 1 hardcore compacted in layers, a sharp sand screed, then a full bed of mortar under every slab with a slurry primer on the back. A proper mortar bed does not go hollow. Dabs do, and a hollow slab ends up rocking, cracked and holding water.
The paving. Riven sandstone and a soft buff limestone sit comfortably next to old brick and rubble stone. Porcelain is calibrated, takes almost no water and is easiest to keep clean. Granite is dense and dark, and travertine holds water, which we would steer you away from in a shaded yard.
Edges, steps and water. A haunched kerb or an edging in concrete holds the perimeter, a coping caps anything retaining, and the fall runs off the house into an ACO channel, an existing gully or a soakaway set clear of the footings. Where the runoff has nowhere to go, a permeable build up takes it through the joints instead.
Jointing, and the paving you have now. Joints take a brush in resin compound, a grout slurry or hand pointing in mortar. If a patio has only lifted or sunk in one bay, or gone slippery with algae and shown efflorescence and staining, we quote the clean, the re-joint or the lift and relay rather than a rebuild you do not need.
How it runs
Laying a patio, from the first dig to the jointing

Thomas walks round the garden with you, takes the height of the damp proof course on the back wall, and looks at which way the ground falls and where puddles form now. In Stone the garden could be behind an eighties house with a side path, a bungalow, an older cottage reached through a narrow gate, or a ground floor flat. With a flat, the lease says whether that garden is yours or shared.
His written price separates digging and removing spoil, the sub base, the falls and any drainage, edgings and steps, the slabs, and the jointing. Thomas stays your contact while the base is built and the stone laid. If everything has to come through the house, floors and doorways are covered first. Each evening the garden is left safe for children and pets, and spoil and broken concrete leave with us. An old slab, a root run or an unknown drain found in the dig is photographed and priced, and waits for your decision.
Paving a garden at ground level is normally permitted development; the government guidance on when permission is required shows where that ends. Stone has no conservation area, but the parish has many listed entries, and work in the grounds of a listed building needs listed building consent from Dorset Council. Garden and retaining walls have limits under the rules on garden walls, and the level against the house falls under Approved Document C.
Cost
Gates, clay and the damp course in a patio price
Getting materials in comes first. A house in Stone with a drive to the side lets a small digger and a skip in. A cottage with a narrow gate, or a terrace where everything crosses the kitchen, means every slab and every load of spoil is carried by hand.
What comes out first. An old concrete base, a shed slab, raised beds or roots have to be dug out and taken away, and that is priced by the load.
Clay under the garden. The ground here shrinks and swells, so the sub base goes deeper and the slabs are laid on a full mortar bed rather than dabs. Water sent towards the house on clay is a foundation risk as well as a damp one.
Level and fall. The finished surface has to sit below the damp proof course and slope away from the building. A garden that rises towards the house may need a step, a retaining edge or a channel drain.
The slabs. Sandstone, porcelain and concrete cut and lay differently; porcelain needs a primer on the back and a jointing made for it.
Communal gardens. Behind a block, a shared garden is the freeholder's to instruct.
Ask other quotes how deep they dig, what sub base goes in, whether the slabs are on a full bed or dabs, and where the water goes.
If it has become a hazard
A slab rocking, a step sunk or a green, slippery patio
A slab that rocks or has lifted at a corner is a trip, and a shaded patio that has gone green can be slippery through the winter. Put something over the worst spot so nobody catches it. Phone for this; the form is slower to reach us.
When we come out to Stone, we lift and re-bed any slab that is a hazard, clean a slippery area, and look at whether the base has failed underneath; the proper repair is priced after that. Garden work is scheduled Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. For an urgent problem, ring, and if the line is busy we call you back as soon as we are free.
Worth knowing
Older walls here have no damp proof course
Some of the housing in this part of the parish predates 1919, and the listed entries hereabouts sit mostly on the older Pamphill side, away from the newer housing. On any of those older buildings there is one thing worth knowing before you pave.
Damp proof courses did not become normal until the end of the nineteenth century. A solid brick or stone wall built before that has no membrane in it, and it stays dry by letting moisture out through its own face. That means the usual instruction, finish two courses below the damp proof course, has nothing to measure from. Worse, a mortar bedded patio hard against that wall seals the bottom of it and pushes the moisture inwards instead.
So on an old wall the detail changes. Keep the finished paving low. Leave a free draining gravel margin against the brickwork so splashback and rainfall drop away rather than soak in. Fall the surface off the building, not along it. If you are getting a patio quoted against a pre-Victorian wall, ask what is going against the wall itself.
Who you are dealing with
Your patio, priced by the man who owns the firm
We cover Stone, Pamphill, Cowgrove and the lanes towards Wimborne, broadly BH21, and Stone is around nine miles from where our base is in Boscombe. Stone is in the Dorset Council area. You would be dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Stone, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
The company is Thomas Hannen's, and Thomas is the one who walks your garden and prices the patio. Checkatrade shows a 10 out of 10 from a customer whose review is verified. You are not charged for the visit, and the itemised quote on paper is free. The same old walls stand at the front of many houses, and a driveway at Stone is kept back from them with a margin.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Stone?
Most repairs in Stone need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Stone |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Stone. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Stone, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Stone. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Stone. |
Questions
Questions about patios in Stone
How do I know whether my wall has a damp proof course?
Look for a thin dark line of slate or bitumen in a mortar joint two or three courses above the ground. If you cannot find one and the house is Victorian or older, assume there is none and detail the patio accordingly. We check it on the visit.
Why leave a gravel strip instead of paving right up to the wall?
Because rain bouncing off a hard surface soaks the same band of brick every storm, and a mortar bed against an old wall stops it drying. Loose shingle on a free draining bed lets the splash fall away and lets the wall breathe.
Could the paving be the reason my wall is wet?
Very often it is the cause, not a coincidence. Paving that sits too high, or that falls back towards the wall, keeps the base of the brickwork wet all winter. Lowering the level and adding a gravel margin dries a lot of walls out without any other work.
Which paving suits an older brick or stone building?
Riven sandstone and a buff limestone weather in and look as though they have always been there. Porcelain is calibrated and much easier to keep, which wins in a modern setting or a shaded yard where stone would green up.
Do older walls slow the work down?
A little, because the detail against them is fussier and worth taking care over. Overall, a straightforward rear patio is about a week, and a drainage channel, steps or a retaining wall take it to ten days while footings cure.
Nearby, and next door
Patios near Stone
Nearby places we also cover for patios, with straight-line distances from Stone, and the other trades we offer in Stone itself.
Patios nearby
Our other trades in Stone
Patios guides
Driveway planning permission and where water goes Frost damage to brickwork: why it shows later Resin bound, block paving or tarmac comparedEverything we do in Corfe Mullen Patios, all areas Every area we cover
Free quote
Get the wall detail right, not just the paving
Thomas comes out, looks at the wall as well as the ground, takes the levels and prices it in writing. The visit and the quote are free.
