Insulation in Stone
Second layers over lofts that were done at build, cavities checked before anything is blown in, and the cold room over the garage sorted.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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A loft at Stone may not be a bare one. It may have been done once when the house was built and left at that depth ever since, over a cavity nobody has looked into. Both get measured on a free visit and both go on one written itemised quote.
Insulation work in Stone starts from a garage bedroom, a house that has cooled over the years or a damp old cottage. A bedroom over the garage that is cold no matter what the heating does. A house that felt warm enough for years and does not any more. And an older cottage with thick walls, a heavy roof and a corner that never quite dries out.
Only one of those is fixed by more material in the roof. So the visit is a look at the whole fabric rather than a glance through the hatch: what depth is genuinely up there once the top layer is lifted, whether the eaves are open or were sealed when the roof went on, what is in the cavity and whether the top of the wall is still full, what sits above and below any room that is cold, and where the tank and the pipe runs are. Then you get it in writing, itemised, with the ventilation work priced as its own line, never buried.
The work
Insulated at build, and never touched since

Insulated at build, never touched since. Where a house here was insulated when it was built and left alone since, the roof was finished with a single layer laid between the joists. It is usually dry and usually worth keeping. What it is not is deep enough.
We add a second layer of mineral wool, an eco roll running at right angles across the joists, between and over, which brings the depth up and takes the timber itself out of the heat path, and we deal with the perimeter properly instead of stopping a foot short of it the way the original layer almost always does.
Cavity walls from the eighties were often built partial fill, with a board fixed against the inner leaf and a clear gap left in front of it, which is a different animal from an empty cavity and changes what can sensibly be blown in later. It needs a borescope and a look at the top of the wall, not an assumption: what is in there, how much clear space is left, and whether the wall is dry. Where a full fill would bridge to the outer leaf on an exposed elevation we say no, and we would rather say it before you pay for it.
Rooms over garages. Where a house has a room built over the garage or above an open porch, that is usually the coldest room in it. The reason is under the carpet rather than over the ceiling: a heated floor sitting on top of an unheated space with nothing in it. We insulate between the floor joists, from the garage side where the ceiling allows and by lifting boards where it does not, and we close the cold bridge at the edge where that floor runs out over the wall below. It is a half day that changes a room people had given up on.
On the Pamphill side it is brick and flint under a heavy roof, solid walls with no cavity to fill, and eaves that come down low enough that depth runs out exactly where you want it. Vent trays hold the airway open and rigid board goes in at the perimeter where a roll will not fit. Any internal wall insulation on a wall like that has to be vapour open, a breathable board with a lime finish, or you move the damp rather than remove it. Where an attic has been converted into a room in roof it is rigid board again: PIR such as Celotex between the rafters with a clear air gap kept above, a multi-layer quilt such as TLX under a sloping ceiling with no depth to give, and the dormer cheeks done at the same time. Then the loft's own details: lagging on the pipe runs above the new layer and a raised deck where boarding and storage go back.
How it runs
Insulating a home in Stone: walls, floors and roof

Thomas starts in the loft, then looks at the walls and, where it is worth it, the floor over a garage or a void. Around Stone and Pamphill that could be a brick and flint cottage with solid walls and a heavy roof, a later house with trussed rafters and a thin original layer, or a converted farm building with a room in the roof.
You get a quote that separates the survey, taking out old material, the new insulation with its depth or thickness, eaves trays or vents, making good, and disposal. Stair carpets and landings are sheeted and the floor under the hatch is hoovered before we go. For a block, the roof space over the flats is the freeholder's, so the agent is our first call. Damp timbers, a roof leak or cables buried in old insulation get a photograph and a price, and nothing extra happens until you agree.
Putting insulation in a loft or lining a wall on the inside is not development, and the Planning Portal explains where that ends. Building control applies once a thermal element is renovated or a loft is turned into a room. No conservation area covers Stone itself, though Pamphill Conservation Area covers Pamphill Green, Cowgrove and the estate hamlets next door, and on a listed building listed building consent covers the inside as well as the outside. Dorset Council deals with both.
Cost
House type and old material set the insulation cost

The loft sets most of it. An estate cottage with a hatch on a half landing, a modern house with a loft ladder already in place, and a room over a garage insulated from underneath are three different days of work.
The old layer. Flattened wool that is dirty or has been wet goes into bags and away. Wool that is clean and dry is left where it is and a cross layer goes over the joists.
Walls. A cavity from the eighties may be empty, partly filled or full, and one look with a borescope answers that. A cottage with solid walls can only be lined inside or insulated outside.
Flats. In a block the loft and the outside walls are the freeholder's, so work there goes through the agent, and a bigger job may need the leaseholders consulted under section 20 of the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985.
Air at the eaves. Stuffing insulation into the eaves stops the roof breathing and puts the damp into the rafters, so trays and vents are priced on their own.
The U-value to aim for comes from Approved Document L. Ask any other quote how deep the new layer will be, whether the old one is being taken out or covered, and how the eaves are being kept open.
If it is urgent
Black mould, dripping condensation or a cold room
A loft dripping with condensation, black mould that keeps coming back on a ceiling, or a room that never gets warm are worth looking at before the worst of the winter. Leave the loft hatch shut and ventilate the room while you wait.
Please call us for this. Thomas's first visit tracks down the cause, which might be blocked eaves ventilation, a gap in the insulation over one ceiling, or a cold wall, and we tell you what to do in the meantime. Survey work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. For anything urgent, phone, and if we miss you we will call back when we can.
Worth knowing
Built to the standard of its day, not to today's

A house from the eighties or nineties does not feel like an old house, so people assume the fabric is sorted and look at the boiler instead. It was insulated properly for its time.
The standard of the time was around 100mm in the loft and often a partial fill or nothing at all in the walls, and the expectation now for a loft ceiling under a renovated pitched roof is a U-value of 0.16 W/m2K, which takes roughly 270mm of mineral wool. That gap is usually the cheapest thing left to do in these houses, because the loft is trussed, walkable and already half done.
Before you ring anybody, lift a corner of what is in the loft and put a tape in it; do not eye it from the hatch, because a layer that looks generous from the ladder often measures half what it should once the top of it is picked up. Then look at which rooms are actually cold.
If it is a bedroom over the garage, or a converted attic, or the end room above a projecting bay, the loft is not your problem and topping it up will not fix it. Those are floor and rafter jobs and they get priced separately, which is exactly why the quote is itemised rather than one figure for the house.
Who you are dealing with
Who is behind your insulation quote in Stone
We cover Stone and Pamphill, Wimborne Minster, Furzehill, Cowgrove and Shapwick on BH21. The trip from our Boscombe base to Stone is about nine miles, and Dorset Council is the planning and building control authority.
Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd is registered in England and Wales; the company number is 15471719. Thomas Hannen, whose business it is, goes up into the loft and prices the job. Checkatrade lists a 10 out of 10 for us from a verified customer. The survey visit is free, as is the written quote with every item listed. Before you book a visit in Stone, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Stone?
Most repairs in Stone need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Stone |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Stone. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Stone itself. Pamphill Conservation Area covers Pamphill Green and Cowgrove next door. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Stone. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Stone. |
Questions
Questions about insulation in Stone
The house is early eighties. Was the cavity filled then?
Sometimes partly, and that is the catch. Houses built in the early 1980s often carry a partial fill batt tight against the inner leaf with a clear cavity still in front of it. That is not a filled wall. It can be topped up later, but only once somebody has drilled and looked, and a borescope settles the question in minutes.
Pamphill has a lot of listed buildings. Does that affect us?
Only if yours is one of them. Pamphill parish and the Kingston Lacy estate carry many listed entries, including Pamphill Manor House. Listing attaches to the individual building and its curtilage, not to the lane it sits on. Where it does apply, internal linings and new rooflights need consent from Dorset Council first.
Where do you park and run the equipment from?
Off the road wherever there is space, because the blowing hose runs from the van to the hatch and wants the shortest clear route through the house. On the narrower lanes around Pamphill we bring the smaller van instead. Doors get propped, floors get sheeted and the hose comes back out the same way it went in. If parking is tight, say so and we plan the day around it.
What can I check myself before calling anybody?
Open the hatch and look across the loft rather than down into it. If the joist tops show as stripes above the material, the depth is short. If what is there is grey and flattened, it has been walked on. Feel for a draught at the hatch itself, which is the biggest single hole in most ceilings. A torch aimed at the eaves shows whether the corner is blocked or open.
Nearby, and next door
Insulation near Stone
Nearby places we also cover for insulation, with straight-line distances from Stone, and the other trades we offer in Stone itself.
Insulation nearby
Our other trades in Stone
Insulation guides
Part L: do you have to insulate when you re-roof? Black mould on walls: what causes it and what stops it PIR board vs mineral wool: which insulation?Everything we do in Corfe Mullen Insulation, all areas Every area we cover
Free quote
Start with a tape in the loft
A free site visit in Stone, a borescope in the wall where it is worth one, and a written itemised quote with the method on it as well as the number.
