Patios in Furzehill

Mature trees and old hedgerows come with the plots here, and the roots under a patio decide the build far more than the slab on top of it does.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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Where a patio in Furzehill meets a mature tree, the roots decide the job. Moving the sitting area, building up over the roots rather than digging through them, and jointing flexibly are what keep the paving flat, and cutting the roots is the one thing we will not do.

Trees shape patio work on Furzehill plots. A patio laid five or ten years ago develops a hump and a rocking slab in one corner, always the corner nearest a tree. And anyone planning a new terrace on a plot with an oak or a beech on it may have been told, correctly, that it is not straightforward.

Both come down to what is under the ground, not what goes on it. We come out to Furzehill, work out where the roots run, take a survey of the levels, then price the dig, the base, the edging, the drainage and the paving on separate lines in a written itemised quote. The site visit and the quote are free.

The work

Building a patio where the roots already are

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Furzehill)
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Looking up comes before looking down. On a Furzehill plot with a mature tree the first thing we do is work out how far the roots reach. As a rough rule they go out at least as far as the branches. Where the patio you want and the root plate overlap, that overlap decides the build.

What we will not do. We will not saw through a structural root to get a level, and we will not concrete over one and hope. Cutting into the roots of a protected tree is an offence as well as a bad idea, so if there is any doubt about a preservation order we check before anything is dug, and the other permissions you may need is the sensible starting point.

Designing around them instead. The usual answers are to move the patio a couple of metres, to build up over the roots on a shallower construction rather than excavating down through them, or to run a root barrier at the edge. Sometimes the sitting area simply belongs somewhere else.

The dig and the muck away. Where we can dig, we dig properly: turf, topsoil, old concrete, flags on sand and any made ground excavated to formation and taken off site. Access in Furzehill is usually good, so spoil leaves by machinery into a skip rather than by barrow through a side gate.

Base and bed. Geotextile membrane, MOT Type 1 hardcore compacted in layers, a sharp sand screed to level it, then a full bed of mortar under every slab with a slurry primer on the back. A proper mortar bed stays put. Slabs on dabs go hollow, and a hollow slab is the one that ends up rocking, cracked and holding water.

Levels, edges and steps. We chalk the DPC on the brickwork and finish two courses below it, with the threshold detailed so nothing washes back to the door. Perimeters are held with a haunched kerb or an edging in concrete, retaining walls sit on a footing with a coping, and a gravel border takes the splashback.

The paving. Porcelain is calibrated, sheds leaf litter and stays clean under a canopy, which is why it wins on a wooded Furzehill plot. Riven sandstone is warmer against old brick, limestone and granite wear hard, and travertine holds water. Under trees the jointing matters as much as the slab: a brush in resin compound, a grout slurry or hand pointing in mortar.

Where the water goes, and lifting what has moved. The fall runs into an ACO channel, an existing gully or a soakaway set clear of foundations and roots alike, with a permeable build up where the runoff has nowhere to travel. Where two slabs have lifted over a root, or a bay has sunk and gone slippery with algae, efflorescence and staining, we quote the lift and relay.

How it runs

Laying a back garden patio, from the dig to the jointing

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Furzehill)
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas walks your Furzehill garden, looks at how the ground falls and where the damp proof course is on the house wall, and prices the patio himself. You get separate lines for digging out and removing spoil, the sub base, setting levels and falls with somewhere for the water to go, edging and any steps, the paving, and pointing the joints. Thomas is your one contact for all of it.

Most gardens in Furzehill sit behind post-war houses and bungalows, reached through a side gate. Where a small digger fits, it does the dig; where it does not, spoil goes out by barrow. Where the ground holds water after rain, the patio is set to fall away from the house toward a border or a channel, and each slab is bedded on full mortar. We sweep up every evening and take the spoil with us. If an old concrete base or tree roots turn up, Thomas shows you and prices it before we go on.

A patio at ground level is usually permitted development, and the government guidance on when permission is required explains where that ends. There is no conservation area here. The grounds of a listed building, Wilksworth Farmhouse for one, need listed building consent. Trees may be protected in their own right, and the level where the patio meets the house wall falls under Approved Document C, not planning.

Cost

Levels, roots and barrow runs: what a patio costs to build

Patios are not priced per square metre, because the paving you pick is usually a small part of the bill.

The way in. A modern Furzehill plot with a side gate wide enough for a machine, a cottage down a lane with a narrow gate, and a long garden behind a hedge each need their own plan. Carrying every slab through by hand takes far longer than wheeling it, and a skip parked on the road can need its own line. The work at height rules still apply to the dig and to any machine on site.

Clearing the ground. Old concrete, a rockery or flower bed, roots and loose fill have to come out and go away before any base goes down, and that is charged per load.

Height against the house. The new surface has to finish comfortably below the damp proof course and run water away from the wall. Where the garden climbs from the back door, that can mean a step, a low retaining edge or a channel drain, with edgings to hold it all.

Where the water ends up. If the trial hole finds clay that shrinks and swells, water must not sit against a foundation, so the drainage is designed rather than assumed.

Put these to anyone else quoting: how deep will you dig, what goes in as the base, will the slabs sit on a full bed of mortar or on spots, and what will you point the joints with?

If it has become a hazard

A lifted slab, or a step that has dropped

A slab that has tipped up at one corner, or a step that has sunk, will catch someone's foot, and a shaded patio stays wet and slick all winter. Stand a pot or a marker on the spot.

The form is fine for planning a new patio, but for a hazard, call us; if you reach nobody, we will phone back when we are able. On a Furzehill patio we lift and rebed the worst slabs or make the area safe, and check whether the base underneath has given out, or a root is lifting it from below. Scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

The tree was here before the patio

Furzehill is a place of large plots, old hedgerows and mature trees, and rather more than a third of the housing is detached with a decent garden round it. Trees are the commonest reason a patio here needs work again.

Roots do not push a slab up in one go. They thicken season by season under a bed with no give in it, and a patio that was flat when it was laid develops a hump, then a rocking slab, then an open joint that lets water into the base. The instinct is to cut the root out. That turns a paving problem into a tree problem, because those roots are often the ones holding the tree up.

The better answers are unglamorous. Move the sitting area clear of the root plate. Build up over the roots; do not dig down through them. Put a root barrier along the edge so nothing new gets under the paving. And use a flexible jointing compound so the joints take a little movement instead of cracking open. If a builder quotes you a Furzehill patio under a mature tree without mentioning the roots at all, that is the question to ask.

Who you are dealing with

Who lays patios in Furzehill

From Boscombe to Furzehill is about eight miles, and we lay patios across Colehill, Leigh, Holt Road and the lanes north of Wimborne, broadly BH21. The council is Dorset Council. Your job would be with Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, company number 15471719, a company registered in England and Wales. Before you book a visit in Furzehill, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Thomas Hannen owns the business, and he walks the garden and prices your patio himself. A verified Checkatrade customer has given us 10 out of 10. The site visit is free, as is the written quote with every item listed. Big trees often stand by the gate here, and a driveway in Furzehill is built over their roots the same careful way.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Furzehill?

Most repairs in Furzehill need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Furzehill, from council and national records.
Question In Furzehill
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Furzehill. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area None covers Furzehill, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Furzehill. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Furzehill.

Questions

Questions about patios in Furzehill

Can you cut the roots that are lifting my slabs?

Not the structural ones. They are often what keeps the tree standing, and on a protected tree cutting them is an offence, not a shortcut. We lift the paving, build back over the roots with a shallower construction, or move that part of the patio.

How far do roots reach from a tree?

Further than most people expect: as a working rule at least as far out as the branches spread, and on a thirsty species a good deal further, mostly in the top half metre of soil. That is exactly the depth a patio wants, which is why the two argue.

Will a root barrier stop the problem coming back?

It helps a lot at the edge of a patio, stopping new growth getting underneath. It will not do anything about a root that is already there. On a plot with a big tree it is one part of the answer rather than the whole of it.

Should I just build a deck instead?

It is a fair question and sometimes the right answer, because a raised structure can span roots that paving cannot. It is a different trade with different upkeep and it goes green in shade.

Does working around roots add much time to the job?

Some, because the build gets adapted as we uncover what is down there. In total it is about a week for a straightforward patio, and ten days or so where the area has to move or a retaining edge and a soakaway go in.

Free quote

Find out what the roots will let you build

Thomas comes out, works out where the roots run, takes the levels and prices the honest options in writing. The visit and the quote are free.