Patios in Lytchett Matravers
The village runs along a ridge and the gardens run back off it, so on a good many plots the lawn sits higher than the back door.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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A patio in Lytchett Matravers is a levels job before it is a paving job. Where the garden rises behind the house, the water has to be caught and taken somewhere before a single slab is chosen, and that decision matters far more than the choice between porcelain and sandstone.
On these sloping Lytchett Matravers plots the complaints are a slab that rocks under your foot at one corner, a terrace still wet two days after rain when the rest of the garden has dried, and an old paved square that no longer suits the house since the back was opened up.
None of those are cured by better slabs. What sits under a patio, and which way it falls, decides how it behaves for the next twenty years. So a site visit in Lytchett Matravers starts with a trial hole at the edge and a level taken off the damp proof course. Then you get one written itemised quote with the dig, the muck away, the sub base, the edgings, the paving and the jointing on their own lines. The survey and the quote are both free.
The work
Paving, steps and the ground under all of it

The dig, and what leaves the site. Almost every patio starts by taking something out: turf, an old concrete raft, a raised bed, or made ground a previous owner levelled the garden with. We excavate to a firm formation and the spoil goes by skip or grab lorry, priced by the load rather than the metre. On a plot with only a side gate that is barrow work, and it is the line most quotes are shy about.
Sub base and how the slabs are bedded. Compacted hardcore, MOT type 1, in layers, then paving laid on a full wet mortar bed with a slurry primer on the back of each slab. Not five dabs, and not dropped on a screeded sand bed like a block drive. A void under the middle of a slab is where water sits, where frost works and where the crack starts.
Porcelain. Calibrated to an even thickness, so it lays fast and the joints stay tight. It takes up almost no water, so it does not stain and it greens over more slowly than stone, and outdoor ranges carry a published slip rating you can look up. It is cut wet with a diamond blade and it needs that primer, because nothing bonds to the back of a porcelain tile on its own.
Sandstone, limestone, granite and travertine. Riven sandstone is the warm way into natural stone. Limestone lays flatter but marks more easily, travertine is softer again, and granite is the hardest and least forgiving to cut. Most are uncalibrated, so thickness varies across a pack and every slab is bedded individually to the line.
Falls, thresholds and the damp proof course. The surface falls away from the building and finishes at least two courses below the DPC. Where a door sits low, the answer is a threshold drain along the house rather than paving built up to meet it. Getting that wrong is not a snag, it is damp in the wall.
Steps, edges and retaining. A change of level wants a haunched kerb or a low wall with a coping and drainage behind it, tied into steps of a consistent rise, with a planted border left where rain can still soak away.
Drainage and jointing. A channel drain at the foot of the fall into a gully or a soakaway, so the runoff has somewhere legal to go, and a permeable margin where the ground will take it. Then the joints are brushed and worked in with a two part compound rather than sand or a bagged grout.
Repairs. Lifted, sunk and rocking slabs, a cracked step, algae on a shaded terrace, efflorescence and iron staining on new stone. Some of that is a morning. Some of it is the base telling you the truth.
How it runs
Laying a patio behind the house, from levels to jointing

Thomas comes out and walks the garden with you. He puts a level against the house to find the damp proof course, works out which way the water should run, and prices it himself.
On a Lytchett Matravers quote you will see the dig and the spoil, the stone base, the falls and drainage, edgings and any steps, the paving you choose, and what the joints are filled with, each priced on its own. He stays your contact while it is dug and laid.
Back gardens in Lytchett Matravers are mostly reached down the side of the house. On a detached house with a drive to the side, a small digger can often get round. Where it cannot, spoil goes out in barrows, slabs come in by hand, and we lay boards over the lawn so it survives. Paths are swept every day and offcuts go with us. Buried concrete or a drain run in the way stops the dig until you have seen it and agreed the cost.
A ground level patio in a back garden is normally permitted development, needing no application. Raise it, or build a retaining or boundary wall alongside, and the height rules apply. Dorset Council is the authority. Lytchett Matravers has no conservation area, though a terrace built against one of its listed buildings would need listed building consent.
Cost
Levels, the damp course and a garden on clay
The slabs are the part you choose, and usually the smaller part of the bill. Levels against the house. The finished paving has to sit a good two courses of brick under the damp proof course and slope away from the wall. On a Lytchett Matravers bungalow with a low damp course that can mean digging down, then adding a step or a channel drain at the door.
The clay. Cohesive Lytchett Matravers clay swells in winter, shrinks in summer and drains slowly. A proper depth of compacted sub-base, a membrane under it and slabs on a full mortar bed stop them rocking and stop water sitting on the surface.
Getting materials in. Barrowing every load through a narrow side gate adds days compared with a drive round to the back. A patio you can reach directly is a different job from one where every slab is carried.
Breaking out. Old concrete, a shed base, a raised bed or stumps get broken up and carted off first, and that is charged by the load.
The stone. Porcelain needs a primer and a full bed. Sandstone varies in thickness, so each slab is bedded to level.
Ask a competing quote what sub-base and how deep, full wet bed or dabs, which way the falls run, and which jointing compound.
If it has become a hazard
Slabs that rock, sink or turn green and slippery
A slab that lifts at one corner, a step that has dropped, or a shady patio that goes slick with algae in winter is a fall waiting to happen. Ring; the web form is slower.
We can usually lift and re-bed the worst slabs quickly, then look at whether the base under the rest has failed. On this clay, a patio that has sunk near the house can also mean water is going where it should not, so we check the gully and downpipes as well. Lytchett Matravers is on the far side of Poole from our base. We book planned patio work Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. For a hazard, phone, and if it rings out we return the call as soon as we can.
Worth knowing
When the garden is higher than the back door
The village sits along a ridge and the plots run back off it, so a good many gardens in Lytchett Matravers rise behind the house rather than fall away from it. That is the awkward one. The rule that a patio falls away from the building still holds, but if the ground behind keeps climbing, all you have built is a shallow tray that collects whatever comes down the slope and delivers it to your back wall.
On a rising Lytchett Matravers plot the patio is designed from the back forwards. A slot drain runs along the top edge where the paving meets the lawn or the retaining wall, the surface falls into it, and the water goes away on your own ground. Behind a retaining edge goes a drainage layer and weep holes, because a wall holding back wet ground will lean out of line eventually.
The advice is simple enough. Before you spend on slabs, walk the garden in heavy rain and watch where the water runs. If it comes down towards the house, ask whoever is quoting to show you on paper where that water ends up.
Who you are dealing with
The people who will be in your garden
Thomas Hannen owns the business and he prices your patio after walking the garden with you. We are eleven miles away in Boscombe and cover the village, the lanes out towards Lytchett Minster and Upton, and the plots along Wareham Road, broadly BH16, with Dorset Council as the authority.
Registered name: Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. One verified customer on Checkatrade rated us 10 out of 10. Your site visit and your written, line by line quote cost nothing. Where the ground rises towards the house at the front, a driveway in Lytchett Matravers needs the water caught in the same way. Before you book a visit in Lytchett Matravers, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Lytchett Matravers?
Most repairs in Lytchett Matravers need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Lytchett Matravers |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Lytchett Matravers. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Lytchett Matravers, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Lytchett Matravers. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Lytchett Matravers. |
Questions
Questions about patios in Lytchett Matravers
Should my slabs be laid on a full bed or on dabs?
A full wet bed every time outdoors. Dabs are quicker on the day and leave voids under the slab where water sits and frost works, which is what makes a slab rock or crack two winters later.
Is porcelain worth it over natural stone?
It depends what you want from it. Porcelain stays cleaner and has a published slip rating. Stone looks warmer and ages into a garden. Porcelain costs more to lay because of the primer and the wet cutting, so the gap on the finished bill is smaller than the gap on the pallet.
How many days does a rear terrace take to build?
A straightforward rear terrace with decent access is most of a week: a day or two digging out and carting away, a day on the base, then laying and jointing. Steps, a retaining wall or barrowing through a side gate add days, not hours.
Will a new patio stop the back wall staying damp?
Only if the level comes down. Where old paving has crept up to within a course of the damp proof course, new stone at the same height changes nothing. We take the level off the house first and fit a threshold drain where the door is low.
My terrace has gone green and slippery on the shaded side. Can it be saved?
Usually, yes: algae on a north facing terrace is a surface problem rather than a base problem, so a clean and a change of jointing often deal with it. If the slabs rock as well, the green is the least of it.
Nearby, and next door
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Free quote
Find out what is under your patio before you price a new one
Thomas comes out, digs a trial hole at the edge, takes the levels off the house and prices the work in writing. The visit and the quote are free.
