Patios in Beacon Hill

There is no conservation area here and nothing listed, so what your patio looks like is entirely up to you; the level and the drainage are the parts that are not.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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For a patio at Beacon Hill, nothing is listed and no conservation area applies, so the paving you choose is your decision alone. What remains is sound practice on level and fall, and on where the rainwater goes.

The situations in Beacon Hill are refreshingly simple. Somebody wants the back garden opened up with a proper sitting area, usually alongside new doors. Or an old set of flags has sunk, gone green and needs taking out and doing again from the ground up.

Neither comes with a heritage question attached, which saves a conversation. We come out to Beacon Hill, take a survey of the levels, look at where the water will go, and price the dig, the base, the edging, the drainage and the paving on separate lines in a written itemised quote. The site visit and the quote are free.

The work

A patio decided by what you want, not what you are allowed

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Beacon Hill)
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Starting with what you actually want. With nothing designated over this settlement, the first conversation is about the patio, not permissions. How many people sit out, where the sun is at seven, whether a barbecue wants its own corner, and whether the lawn stays. That shapes the size, and the size shapes everything after it.

The dig and the muck away. Turf and topsoil, old concrete, a set of flags bedded on sand, roots and any made ground, all excavated to formation and taken off site. Spoil is priced by the load that leaves, not by the metre it covered. Access on most Beacon Hill plots is good enough for machinery and a skip, which keeps that part sensible.

Levels against the house. We scrape back, chalk the DPC on the brickwork and set the finished paving two courses below it, falling away from the wall. Where a threshold has to stay flush for a wide door, a recessed channel does the job a step would otherwise do.

Base and bed. Geotextile membrane, MOT Type 1 hardcore compacted in layers, a sharp sand screed to level it, then a full bed of mortar under every slab with a slurry primer on the back. A proper mortar bed stays solid. Dabs go hollow, and a hollow slab is the one that ends up rocking, cracked and holding water two winters later.

The paving, and it really is your choice. Large format porcelain in a light grey, calibrated so every joint is even. Riven Indian sandstone, warm and hand cut. Limestone, granite for something dark and hard wearing, travertine if you can live with a surface that holds water. Nothing in Beacon Hill is ruled out by a designation, so pick what you want to look at and we will lay samples out wet before you commit.

Edges, steps and retaining. The perimeter is held with a haunched kerb or an edging bedded in concrete, retaining walls sit on a proper footing with a coping over them, and a gravel border runs along the house wall to take splashback. Steps get set at a rise you can walk in the dark rather than whatever the level happened to leave.

Where the water goes. The fall runs off the house into an ACO channel, an existing gully or a soakaway set clear of the foundations, with a permeable build up where the runoff has nowhere to travel. This part is not optional and it is not a matter of taste, which is why it sits on the quote as its own line.

Jointing, and the patio you have now. Joints take a brush in resin compound, a grout slurry or hand pointing in mortar. Where a patio has only lifted or sunk in one bay, or turned slippery with algae and shown efflorescence and staining, we quote the clean, the re-joint or the lift and relay rather than a rebuild you do not need.

How it runs

Laying a patio when everything comes through the garden

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Beacon Hill)
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas comes out to Beacon Hill and walks the garden with you. The first thing he measures is the height of the damp proof course against where the patio will meet the house, because that one level shapes the whole job. The quote then prices the dig and carting it away, the stone sub-base, the falls and where the water drains, any edging and steps, the slabs themselves, and the jointing.

Thomas is your contact from the first spade to the last brush-in. Since everything comes and goes through the garden, the lawn and paths are boarded, and the route is cleared each evening. Spoil and any old slabs leave with us. If digging turns up a buried slab, a drain run or a mass of roots, we show you a picture of it and a price before we deal with it.

A ground level patio in a garden is normally permitted development, and the few exceptions are set out in the government's guidance on when permission is required. Nothing in Beacon Hill is on the statutory list, and no conservation area reaches it. A garden or retaining wall has height limits under the rules on garden walls. Keeping the paving below the damp course is a building regulations matter under Approved Document C, and Dorset Council is the authority if anything needs an application.

Cost

What goes under the slabs sets the patio price

You will not get a per square metre rate for a patio from us. The slabs are what you pick, and they are rarely the bulk of the cost.

Getting in. If a small digger can drive into the garden, the dig is quick. If every slab and every bag of spoil goes by barrow through a side gate or through the house, it is not.

Clearing first. Old concrete, a raised bed or big roots have to come out before anything goes down, and that waste is priced by the load.

The ground. On Beacon Hill's sand the stone sub-base is compacted in layers, often over a geotextile, because loose sand shifts and washes out under a thin base. Slabs set on a few dabs of mortar over a thin layer of sand will be rocking within a couple of winters.

Height and fall. The top of the patio has to finish two courses below the damp proof course and slope away from the wall. A Beacon Hill garden that sits higher than that needs a step, a retaining edge or a channel drain, and each adds time.

Joints. A brush-in compound, a pointed mortar joint and a slurry grout suit different stone, and porcelain needs a primer and a jointing product of its own.

When comparing, ask how deep they will dig and what goes in underneath, whether the slabs are on a full wet bed or on dabs, where the rain will drain, and whether edging and steps are in the price.

If it has become a hazard

A rocking slab by the back door or a green, slippery patio

A slab that tips when you step on it, a step that has dropped, or a patio gone slick with algae in a shady corner can all put someone on the ground. Keep people off the worst of it and phone us, since the form is slower.

The first visit to a Beacon Hill patio lifts and re-beds the dangerous slabs or marks them off, and checks whether the base under the rest has failed, which on loose sand it can once an edge lets go. We then price the proper repair. Scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. Ring about anything urgent, and if nobody picks up, expect a call back as soon as one of us is free.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Nothing here is designated, and that is useful

Most pages about building work around here have to talk about designations. This one does not. There is no conservation area over Beacon Hill and nothing listed in it, which is genuinely unusual on this patch and worth saying plainly.

What it means in practice is that the appearance of your patio is nobody's business but yours. No question of whether a light grey porcelain reads wrong against old brick. No wall height limited because a boundary is visible from a lane. No consent needed for work in the grounds of a listed building. Paving a back garden at ground level is ordinarily permitted development anyway, and in Beacon Hill there is nothing sitting on top of that to complicate it.

What still matters is level and water, and none of it is optional in practice. The paving finishes below the damp proof course. The fall runs away from the house. The rainwater ends up on your plot and never in the road. The first two are good building practice, the last is a planning condition on paved front gardens, and they are what protect the house. So spend the conversation on what you want to look at, and let us worry about the rest.

Who you are dealing with

Check the firm before it lays a slab

We work from a base in Boscombe, 9.8 miles from Beacon Hill, and lay patios across BH16, including Sturminster Marshall, Henbury and the roads towards Lytchett Minster. Dorset Council covers planning and building control. The firm is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Beacon Hill, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Thomas Hannen owns the firm; he measures up the garden and writes the price himself. We hold a verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade, which you can read before you ring. The site visit and the written itemised quote cost nothing. The rule that rainwater stays on your land applies at the front as well, which matters for a driveway at Beacon Hill.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Beacon Hill?

Most repairs in Beacon Hill need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Beacon Hill, from council and national records.
Question In Beacon Hill
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Beacon Hill. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area None covers Beacon Hill, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance.
Listed buildings Nothing in Beacon Hill is on the statutory list, so listed building consent does not come into it.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Beacon Hill.

Questions

Questions about patios in Beacon Hill

Do I need permission for a patio at Beacon Hill?

For paving laid at ground level in a garden, no. Nothing here is listed and there is no conservation area, so the usual permitted development position applies with nothing on top of it. A raised platform or a tall boundary wall is the exception.

Is there any restriction on what the paving looks like?

None: no designation covers the settlement, so colour, size and material are entirely your decision. We will still give you an honest opinion about a very light slab in a shaded corner, but that is advice, not a rule.

What rules do still apply, then?

Good practice more than rules: the paving should sit clear of the damp proof course and fall away from the house. The formal rule is for front gardens, where over five square metres of hard surface must be permeable or drain onto your own land.

Can I have a really large format slab?

Yes, and they look excellent on a wide modern elevation. They need a flatter, better prepared bed than a small unit and two people to place each one, so the laying takes longer. That shows on the quote as labour, not as a surprise.

What sort of lead time is there before you can start?

We set a date at the quote rather than leaving it open, usually a few weeks out. Once we begin, how long depends on the job: about a week for a straightforward rear patio, towards ten days with steps, a retaining wall or a soakaway.

Free quote

Spend the conversation on what you want

Thomas comes out, takes the levels, sorts the falls and the drainage and prices it in writing. The visit and the quote are free.