Loft insulation in Beacon Hill
Two crossed layers over the joists, vent trays at the eaves, the hatch draught sealed and your storage boarded back on legs, across Beacon Hill and BH16.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
In a bungalow almost the whole house sits under one ceiling, so the loft floor is where most of the heat leaves. Getting the depth right up there does more for a bungalow than the same work does for a two storey house of the same size.
Why people ring
Rooms that cool the moment the heating stops

Three things bring people to the phone here. The rooms go cold as soon as the heating clicks off. The loft was boarded years ago for the boxes and whatever went underneath has been flat ever since. Or the roof space has never really been opened and nobody knows what is in it.
None of that is answerable from the landing. We come through the hatch with a tape and a torch, tease the surface apart to find the depth genuinely there, check the eaves, and photograph all of it so you see what we saw. Then an itemised written quote covering the material, the depth, the hatch and anything lifted and put back. The site visit and the quote are free.
The work
Bungalow lofts, and the ones with a room already in them

A bungalow puts almost the whole house under one ceiling. That makes the loft floor the main route for heat loss, which is why depth over your head pays back faster here than in a two storey house of the same size. What is usually up there is one layer of mineral wool, glass wool or rockwool, pushed between the joists and compressed thinner than the packet ever claimed. A second layer of roll goes over the top, cross laid across the joists, so the timber stops being a cold bridge. Two layers, around 270mm finished, is what gets a ceiling to the U-value Approved Document L asks of a renovated thermal element under Part L.
What is already there decides whether it stays. Wool that is only compressed and patchy gets straightened and covered. Loose fill that has drifted, anything contaminated by droppings and anything sitting wet comes out, bagged at the hatch, and leaves with us. Batts go in where joist spacing is awkward, sheep wool where somebody wants it. Access is the first thing we look at, since it is still work at height even indoors.
The eaves are the part that gets ruined. Insulation runs to the wall plate and stops. Beyond it is the air gap the roof breathes through, and pushing new depth into the eaves swaps a warm bedroom for a wet roof. A vent tray at each rafter holds that path open so the material still reaches the edge rather than stopping short and going missing where the cold gets in. Where the soffits are boxed solid and the underlay is old felt rather than a breathable membrane, the cross ventilation is not working and a ridge vent goes on first. Otherwise you get condensation on the felt and mould on the timbers.
Chalets are a different job. Where there is a room in the roof, the ceiling you stand on is not the surface losing heat. Sloping ceilings, dormer cheeks and the flat top all want rigid board, PIR such as Celotex cut tight between the rafters with a clear gap above it, a second layer under, then a vapour control layer taped so warm air cannot get into the build up and find its dew point inside the timber. That is a warm roof. In a room in roof with almost no depth to spare a multi-foil quilt earns its place.
Then everything else up there. Downlighters and any other recessed light take fire rated covers, wiring is clipped above the new layer rather than buried in it, and the cold water tank and its pipework get lagging now they sit out in the cold. Storage is planned: loft legs and a raised floor over the insulation, a platform boarded where you need one, the hatch insulated and draught sealed, the loft ladder checked against the new floor.
How it runs
From your call to a written price

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: the survey, clearing and bagging whatever is up there now, the material and its depth, keeping the eaves clear, the hatch and any pipework, and disposal on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.
Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.
Laying insulation inside a loft is not development, so there is no application and no permitted development question to answer, and Planning Portal guidance on insulation says so plainly. Building control comes into it only where the roof itself is renovated, and regulation 23 then brings that whole element up to current standard. Beacon Hill has no conservation area and nothing listed, with Dorset Council as the authority if you ever need one.
Cost
What decides the price of a loft

No rate per square metre, because the floor area is the easy part and the awkward edges are where the time goes.
Getting to it. A bungalow with the hatch in the hall, a chalet with rooms already in the roof, and a two storey house with the hatch over the stairwell are three different jobs. A hatch on a landing you can stand a ladder under is one job. A hatch over a stairwell, a crawl space you can only move through on your knees, or a loft full of boarding that has to come up and go back, is time before any material is laid.
What is up there now, and what it is sitting on. Old material that has to come out, be bagged and taken away is a cost before anything new goes down, and so is a loft full of boxes that has to be emptied and put back. Joists at 400 centres with a flat run across them is a different afternoon from a trussed roof full of bracing.
Ventilation, and the edges nobody reaches. Insulation stops at the wall plate and the eaves have to stay clear, or you trade a warm bedroom for a wet roof. Getting depth right into the corners and around the hatch, boxing over downlighters and lagging anything that now sits in the cold, is most of the labour. Approved Document L sets what the work is expected to reach.
Comparing quotes? Ask what depth is actually being laid and in how many layers, whether the old material is coming out or being covered over, whether the eaves are being kept clear, what happens to anything you store up there, and whether the hatch and the pipework are included. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.
If the loft is wet
Water running off the felt, or mould on the underside
Ring rather than use the form. Droplets on the underside of the felt, black mould spreading across the roof timbers, or insulation that is visibly damp are all telling you the same thing: warm wet air is getting into a space that cannot breathe. That does not wait, because it is the timbers that pay for it. We look before anything is added, because putting more insulation into a loft that cannot ventilate makes it worse. Beacon Hill is a short run for us, so a loft with water in it gets looked at quickly. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.
Worth knowing
Green Belt, and the one question it actually changes
Beacon Hill sits in the Green Belt. For loft insulation that changes nothing whatsoever. Material laid over your ceiling is not development, nobody outside can see it, and there is nothing to apply for. It is still worth knowing, because of the question that follows a first proper look in the loft.
Once people have been up and seen the space, the next thought is often converting it, or putting a dormer in to make it usable. That is where the Green Belt starts to matter, along with anything you might build in the garden, and it is a planning conversation with Dorset Council before it is a building one. Either way, settle the insulation first and tell us at the survey which way you are leaning. If the loft stays a loft, two crossed layers over the ceiling is the right answer and the cheapest one. If it becomes a room, the work moves to rafter level and most of what you spent on the floor is wasted.
Who you are dealing with
A local firm you can check
We cover Beacon Hill, Sturminster Marshall, Lytchett Minster, Upton, Corfe Mullen and the BH16 addresses around them, with Dorset Council for building control. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.
Questions
Beacon Hill questions we get asked
How long does it take, and what does it do to the heating bill?
Most lofts are half a day to a day. The ceiling is the biggest single route for heat out of a bungalow, so the depth up there is the cheapest thermal work available and it shows on the heating bill and on an EPC. It is an energy saving material for VAT purposes and HMRC VAT Notice 708/6 is where those rules sit.
There is old grey loose fill up there. Does it have to come out?
Usually yes. Loose fill that has drifted, packed down or mixed with dust and droppings is not worth covering, because you cannot get an even depth over an uneven base and you seal the mess in. It comes out, gets bagged at the hatch and leaves with us. Where the existing material is sound wool and simply thin, covering it is the sensible answer.
Will a deeper loft make the roof space damper?
The loft will certainly be colder, and a colder space holds less moisture before it condenses. That is why ventilation is half of this job. Keep the eaves gap open, seal the hatch so warm wet air is not pouring up through it, and get the cross ventilation working, and a cold loft stays a dry loft. Skip those and you get droplets on the felt.
We might convert the loft one day. Should we insulate now?
Insulate now, and tell us the plan. If it stays a loft you want depth on the floor. If it becomes a room the insulation has to move to rafter level, and a floor full of wool is then in the way rather than working. Knowing at the survey which way you are thinking is worth more than guessing later.
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Get a price for your Beacon Hill loft
Tell us the address and what the house does in winter. We will get in the loft, measure what is genuinely there, and put an itemised price in writing. No charge, no obligation.
