Loft insulation in Post Green

Full depth over the joists, the eaves left open, and your storage raised back up on legs.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

Insulating a loft around Post Green is nearly always a topping up job rather than a fresh one, and what is already down is usually about half the depth it ought to be.

The commonest version of this call is somebody who has lifted a loft board for the first time in years and found the wool underneath pressed as flat as a beer mat. Next commonest is a house where the heating runs and the bedrooms still feel cold. Then there is damp, which changes everything: wet material, or dark staining creeping along the timbers.

We go up before anything is priced, because none of that can be judged from the landing with a torch. Depth measured, the wall plate checked, the eaves looked at, the joists identified and whatever is stored up there taken into account. Then photographs, and a written quote setting out the clear out, the disposal, the depth, the trays at the eaves, the hatch and the boarding as separate items. The site visit costs nothing, and neither does the quote.

On the job

Working a trussed roof from the hatch outwards

Mineral wool insulation laid between and over the ceiling joists in a loft
Two layers, crossedThe second layer runs across the joists so the timber stops being a cold bridge.

More than half the houses here went up between the war and the early eighties, which means a great many trussed roofs. A truss roof is a lattice of thin timbers braced against one another, and it is not a space you walk about in. Access is the hatch and nothing else, so everything is fed in from there and worked outwards, bay by bay, on crawl boards that move along with you. It is work at height from the moment the ladder goes up. The middle is quick. The last couple of metres into each corner take as long as all the rest put together, and that is the part a cheap quote quietly leaves out.

Depth goes in as two layers. The first sits down between the joists. The second is laid across the top of them at right angles so no timber is left showing, because a bare joist takes cold straight through into the bedroom underneath. Finished, the two come to about 270mm and the Approved Document is where that figure comes from. Rolls of mineral wool do the long runs, batts drop neatly into the small bays a truss creates, loose fill can be poured where the pitch is too shallow for anything else, and sheep wool is an option if you would rather not have glass wool or rockwool above your head. What you are actually buying is a lower U value across the ceiling, which is the largest single piece of heat loss in most houses and the one that shows on the heating bill and on an EPC.

Airflow is the other half of the job, and on a 1970s roof it is usually the half that has gone wrong. The wool has to stop dead on the wall plate so the air gap above stays open, and vent trays clipped between the rafters keep it open when somebody later pushes a suitcase into the eaves. Cross ventilation starts at that gap. It runs up the slope and escapes under the ridge, quicker where a ridge vent is fitted. Where the underlay is old bitumen felt rather than a modern breathable membrane there is no second chance, because felt lets nothing through it. Insulating the ceiling drops the temperature above it and takes the dew point with it, and a blocked eaves then turns into condensation, wet wool and black mould on the timbers within a season.

The rest is housekeeping that pays for itself. Anything up there that has gone patchy, settled to half its thickness, been compressed under a floor or contaminated where birds have left droppings comes out, along with whatever is missing at the edges. It is bagged where it lies and taken away rather than buried under the new. The cold water tank gets lagging, and its pipework with it, because the loft is about to become a much colder place than it has been. Wiring and cables are lifted onto the wool instead of trapped beneath it. Fire rated covers go over recessed lights and downlighters. Storage does not have to be given up: loft legs go on first, the boarding is refitted at the higher level, and the ladder is trimmed or reset so it still meets the platform, with a board and a seal on the hatch to finish. Close to a third of the homes here are bungalows, where all of that work sits over every room in the house rather than half of them.

Where a room has been built into the roof there is no floor to lay on and the job moves up to the rafters. Rigid board, PIR or Celotex, is cut tight between them, an air path is kept clear above so the timbers can still dry, a layer goes under the rafters, and the room side is closed with taped vapour control. Multi-foil quilt is for a sloping ceiling or a dormer cheek that can give up nothing. Get the vapour side wrong and the moisture goes interstitial, sitting inside the build up rather than on a surface where you would see it. Where the covering is coming off anyway, a warm roof over the deck is the better answer.

How it runs

From your call to a written price

Rigid insulation board fitted between the rafters in a loft
Board where depth is shortRigid board earns its place where the headroom will not take quilt.

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: the survey, clearing and bagging whatever is up there now, the material and its depth, keeping the eaves clear, the hatch and any pipework, and disposal on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.

Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.

Insulating inside a loft is not development, so there is no application, which Planning Portal guidance on insulation sets out. The Lytchett Minster conservation area covers part of the area and not all of it, so it is worth knowing which side of the boundary you are on before anybody talks about anything visible on the roof. There are listed buildings near here too, and listed building consent is needed for internal work on one of those. Building control always applies: regulation 23 means renovating more than half of a thermal element brings the whole of it up to the Part L standard, and Dorset Council deal with it. Insulation in a home is treated differently for VAT under HMRC VAT Notice 708/6.

Cost

What decides the price of a loft

A loft insulated at rafter level with the gable filled and a rooflight fitted
At rafter levelA room in the roof is a different job from a cold loft floor.

No rate per square metre, because the floor area is the easy part and the awkward edges are where the time goes.

Getting to it. A 1970s bungalow with a landing hatch, a semi with a small hatch over the stairs, and a detached house with a fully boarded loft are three different mornings before any material is opened. A hatch on a landing you can stand a ladder under is one job. A hatch over a stairwell, a crawl space you can only move through on your knees, or a loft full of boarding that has to come up and go back, is time before any material is laid.

What is up there now, and what it is sitting on. Old material that has to come out, be bagged and taken away is a cost before anything new goes down, and so is a loft full of boxes that has to be emptied and put back. Joists at 400 centres with a flat run across them is a different afternoon from a trussed roof full of bracing.

Ventilation, and the edges nobody reaches. Insulation stops at the wall plate and the eaves have to stay clear, or you trade a warm bedroom for a wet roof. Getting depth right into the corners and around the hatch, boxing over downlighters and lagging anything that now sits in the cold, is most of the labour. Approved Document L sets what the work is expected to reach.

Comparing quotes? Ask what depth is actually being laid and in how many layers, whether the old material is coming out or being covered over, whether the eaves are being kept clear, what happens to anything you store up there, and whether the hatch and the pipework are included. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.

If the loft is wet

Water running off the felt, or mould on the underside

Plasterboard taped and jointed on a lined loft wall
Lined, then tapedWhere the loft becomes a room, the boarding and the joints come next.

Ring rather than use the form. Droplets on the underside of the felt, black mould spreading across the roof timbers, or insulation that is visibly damp are all telling you the same thing: warm wet air is getting into a space that cannot breathe. That does not wait, because it is the timbers that pay for it. We look before anything is added, because putting more insulation into a loft that cannot ventilate makes it worse. Post Green is under eight miles from us, so a damp loft is usually looked at the same day or the next, and nothing gets added until we know why it is wet. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Which side of the conservation area line you are on

The Lytchett Minster conservation area covers part of this area and stops well short of the rest of it. That single line on a map is worth finding before you plan anything to do with a roof, because it decides nothing at all about the inside and quite a lot about the outside.

For loft insulation the answer is the same either way: nothing to apply for. It happens under the tiles, nobody outside can see it, and a conservation area does not reach in there. What changes if you are inside the boundary is anything that shows. A rooflight over a converted loft, or a run of tile vents put in to cure a ventilation problem, goes from a straightforward job to a planning matter, and on a listed building consent is needed for internal work as well.

In practice that shapes the order rather than the work. Get the loft to full depth first, since no one can object to it and it is the biggest single saving in the building. Fix the airflow at the eaves and through the soffit, which is out of sight under the overhang. Leave anything that has to sit on a visible slope until last, when you know whether you still need it.

Who you are dealing with

A local firm you can check

We cover Post Green, Lytchett Minster, Upton and the BH16 addresses around them, with Dorset Council for planning and building control. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.

Questions

Post Green questions we get asked

How deep should it be when it is finished?

About 270mm, laid as two layers with the upper one crossing the joists. A single run level with the timber leaves every joist bridging cold into the room below.

Do I need permission inside the conservation area?

No. Insulation sits under the tiles and nothing about it can be seen from outside, so there is nothing to apply for and your permitted development is untouched. What the boundary affects is anything visible on the roof, a rooflight or a run of tile vents, and a listed building needs consent for internal work too.

Can you work in a trussed roof, and how long does it take?

Yes, from the hatch outwards on crawl boards. It is slower than a cut roof you can stand up in and the corners are the slow part, so most take a day and we allow for it on the quote instead of stopping short of the edges.

There is mould on the timbers. Should I just add more?

Not yet. Mould means warm damp air is sitting in a roof that cannot clear it, and extra depth makes the space colder and the problem worse. The eaves and the vent trays come first.

Free quote

Find out how deep it really is

We come out, measure what is up there and put the material, the depth and the ventilation in writing. The visit and the quote are free.