Rendering at Beacon Hill

There is no conservation area at Beacon Hill, but rendering bare brick or changing the look can still need an application, and after that the wall and the weather choose the render.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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Rendering at Beacon Hill, if your house is cavity built, is usually a choice of system: re-render a tired or cracked elevation in silicone thin coat or monocouche, or patch the hollow areas where the rest is still bonded. A like-for-like renewal is maintenance, a new look may need permission, and the wall behind should decide the system. If damp has marked the inside walls, plastering is a separate line on the quote.

That is worth saying plainly, because a good deal of render advice around Dorset is really planning advice in disguise. Rendering bare brick or turning a dashed wall smooth changes how the house looks, so check permission first; after that, the wall decides. What you cannot do is put a system on a wall that will not take it.

The usual faults are a hollow patch that has started to bulge, dash shedding off a gable, a crack widening at a window corner, or a wall that greens over every year. We come out to Beacon Hill, tap the whole elevation, and put what it needs in a free written itemised quote.

The work

Choosing a render on performance as well as permission

A house elevation part way through rendering, old finish on one side and new render on the other (illustrative photo for rendering in Beacon Hill)
Half and halfThe old finish on one side, the new system on the other. Illustrative photo.

The survey comes first. A light hammer goes over every Beacon Hill elevation before anything is priced. Sound render rings hard, blown render answers hollow and has already delaminated from the background, and nothing applied on top will hold it there. Blown areas are marked, photographed and measured, and it is that area that sets the hours.

Hacking off and preparing the wall. Where the coat has gone we hack off to the blockwork or brick, clean down the background, cut out loose mortar and any spalled face, and let it dry. A primer or a slurry key on a dense or dusty background. Then the beads: angle beads on every corner, stop beads at reveals and against frames, and a bellcast at the base so water is thrown clear instead of tracking back under the render.

Silicone thin coat. An alkali resistant mesh worked into a polymer basecoat, then a flexible through-coloured topcoat scraped to a fine texture. On cavity blockwork in Beacon Hill it is the system we would recommend: it accommodates a little movement, sheds driven rain, stays breathable and does not need repainting. Acrylic topcoats cost less and hold dirt sooner.

Monocouche. A single thick through-coloured coat, ruled flat and scraped the following day. It gives a harder, more mineral looking finish than a thin coat, suits new blockwork and extensions, and is unforgiving of a poor background.

Traditional sand and cement, dash and Tyrolean. Two coats, scratched and floated, then painted, dry dashed or given a Tyrolean finish. Still the right answer on plinths, garages, chimneys and boundary walls. It is rigid, so it wants movement beads on a long run and does not belong on a wall that is already moving.

Pebbledash repairs. Where a dashed elevation still has a sound backing coat we stabilise it, cut out and patch the bald areas and re-dash to match the aggregate that is there. Where the backing has parted, dashing over it hides the problem for a season and no longer.

Cracking and staining. Fine crazing across a panel is shrinkage in the coat. A single crack running out of a window corner is movement in the building. Green and black streaking below a gutter is algae and wants a wash, not a new elevation.

Render over external wall insulation. EWI board with a render carrier or a mesh basecoat is a real option in Beacon Hill, though a finish that changes the outward appearance may need an application. The thermal gain depends entirely on the detailing at the sills, the eaves and the base.

How it runs

Hacking off blown render and putting the new coats on

A rendered bungalow elevation finished and cleaned down, with beads and stop ends in place (illustrative photo for rendering in Beacon Hill)
Beads and stop endsWhere the render stops is where it is judged. Illustrative photo.

Thomas comes out and taps across each elevation himself to find where the render has blown, and checks the beads, the sills and the bottom edge above the damp course. His quote lists access and scaffold, protection, preparing the wall, the render system and the number of coats, beads and stop ends, and making good, all priced separately.

Windows, doors and the drive are sheeted, and hacked-off render goes straight into bags or a skip, which leaves with us. The site is cleared at the end of each day. If the wall behind the old render has cracked blocks or a failed lintel, we photograph it and price it before we cover it up.

Because Beacon Hill is outside any conservation area, and as long as your own house is not on the Historic England list, the permitted development right to clad or render a house applies, but only where the materials look similar to the existing house, so rendering brick for the first time usually needs an application. The Planning Portal explains the test. Renewing a whole elevation still involves building control, because Part L treats the wall as a thermal element, and Dorset Council is the authority.

Cost

The wall behind the render decides the cost

Render quotes in Beacon Hill carry no square metre rate. What is on the wall already, and what the wall is built from, decide the job.

Access. A single storey gable in Beacon Hill is reachable from a tower. Anything taller is scaffolded, and the scaffold stays up through every coat and the drying time between coats. The work at height rules are why that is priced by itself.

Taking off the old. Rendering over sound brick or block in Beacon Hill is straightforward. Knocking off sand and cement render that has lost its grip, or pebbledash that has come away in sheets, is slow, heavy and dusty. We tap the entire wall before quoting so every hollow patch is counted.

The system. A traditional sand and cement render, a through-coloured monocouche and a thin silicone finish, with or without insulation boards underneath, all differ in cost and in how they behave. Solid walls with no cavity need to breathe, so a lime render or another vapour-open system is the safer choice there.

Trims and fittings. Corner and reveal beads, the bellcast drip over the damp course, stop ends, and unfixing and refitting pipes, satellite dishes and outside lights all add hours.

Ground movement. Beacon Hill sits on sand, and walls still move a little at junctions and extensions. New render over a crack that is still opening will crack again, so the cause is looked at first, and mesh may go into the base coat.

When you compare prices, find out the render system and number of coats, whether old render is being stripped or overcoated, whether beads and the bellcast are included, and whether the scaffold is in.

If it has started to come away

Render bulging, cracked or falling off the wall

Start by tapping the render all over. If it sounds hollow, if a crack is wide enough to slip a coin in, or if a patch is bulging away from the wall, rain is already behind it and the next frost will push it off.

Where any loose section hangs over a path or a doorway, keep people clear and phone us; do not wait on the form. Anything that could fall comes down on the first visit, the exposed wall is sheeted if rain is due, and we work out how far the blown area runs before pricing the repair. Our planned work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. When it is urgent, call; if no one answers, we will phone back as soon as we can get to it.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Check the look first, then let the wall decide

Most render questions are really permission questions. Am I allowed a smooth finish. Can I go a different colour. Do I need consent to render the brick. With no conservation area here, a like-for-like repair is maintenance, but a new finish on brick or a clearly different look can need an application; check the Historic England list for your address too. The picture differs around Wimborne and Wareham, and it is worth knowing before you start ringing the council.

Once the planning side is settled, the rest of the decision sits with the wall. A post-war or modern house is usually cavity blockwork, which is dry, does not have to breathe the way a solid pre-1919 wall does, and takes a modern system happily. So the choice between a silicone thin coat, a monocouche and a traditional painted render is a choice about durability, maintenance and looks rather than about fabric. Through-coloured systems do not want repainting. Painted render is cheaper to put on and comes back round as a job. Monocouche is harder and more mineral to look at. None of them is wrong on your wall.

The one thing we would still check is movement. Rigid renders crack where a building moves, and a long unbroken run on a gable or an extension junction wants beads to let it. Ask any quote where the movement joints and stop beads are going and whether the basecoat is mesh reinforced. Once the permission question is settled, that is the one that matters.

Who you are dealing with

The renderer who quotes you, and how to check him

Our base is in Boscombe, 9.8 miles from Beacon Hill, and we render houses across BH16, from Sturminster Marshall to Lytchett Minster and Upton. Dorset Council decides anything on planning or building control. You deal with Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, a company registered in England and Wales with the number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Beacon Hill, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Its owner, Thomas Hannen, is the person who comes out, taps the walls and prices the rendering. Checkatrade shows a verified customer's 10 out of 10 for us. Neither the site visit nor the written quote, broken down line by line, is charged for.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Beacon Hill?

Most repairs in Beacon Hill need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Beacon Hill, from council and national records.
Question In Beacon Hill
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Beacon Hill. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area None covers Beacon Hill, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance.
Listed buildings Nothing in Beacon Hill is on the statutory list, so listed building consent does not come into it.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Beacon Hill.

Questions

Questions about rendering in Beacon Hill

Do we need permission to render our brick house?

Often, yes. Outside designated land, cladding a house is permitted development only if the materials look similar to the existing house, so rendering bare brick usually needs an application. Conservation areas, national parks, National Landscapes, the Broads and listed buildings are stricter still. Check too for an article 4 direction or estate condition.

Which system lasts longest?

On modern blockwork, a mesh reinforced basecoat with a flexible through-coloured topcoat gives the least trouble, mainly because it moves a little and never needs repainting. Monocouche is harder wearing but less forgiving. Painted sand and cement is the cheapest to apply and the one that comes back round as a decorating job.

Can we change the colour completely?

Yes. With a through-coloured system the colour is in the topcoat, chosen from a standard range, and we will put a sample on your wall so you can see it against the roof and the brickwork in daylight. Strong colours read much darker on a big elevation than they do on a card.

What causes the fine cracks all over our render?

That pattern is shrinkage in the coat, not movement in the building, and it usually comes from a mix that was too strong or dried too fast in sun or wind. It is not structural, but it lets water in, so it wants a mesh reinforced overlay rather than a coat of masonry paint.

Free quote

Get the render chosen for the wall, not the rule book

Thomas sounds the elevation, tells you what is blown and what is sound, and puts the system, the beads and the access in a free written itemised quote.