Rendering in Lytchett Matravers
Most of the render in this village is a panel over brick rather than a whole house, and the bottom edge of that panel is where it usually lets go.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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Rendering in Lytchett Matravers is almost always a panel, not a whole house: an upper storey over brick, a gable end, a porch cheek. Where that panel stops is where it fails, so a blown or cracked bottom edge is cut back and rebuilt with a proper bellcast, or the panel is re-rendered in a silicone thin coat or monocouche. Cracked plaster indoors is plastering work, priced on its own.
In Lytchett Matravers, render tends to give itself away by sound, by cracks or by colour. A rendered gable that sounds hollow when you knock it, usually along the bottom edge. A crack wide enough to take a coin, running down from the corner of a window. Or a shaded panel that has gone green and stayed green however often somebody has been at it with a pressure washer.
None of that is decided from the pavement. We tap the whole Lytchett Matravers panel, corner to corner, because the hollow area is nearly always bigger than the stained area. Then you get a written itemised quote saying what comes off, what goes back and where it stops.
The work
Render panels, hollow areas and what goes back on

Tapping the elevation comes first. Every Lytchett Matravers quote starts with a knuckle over the whole surface. Sound render answers dead. Blown render drums, and the drumming carries well past the crack you can see. We chalk the hollow areas, and the chalk decides whether you are having a repair or an elevation.
Hacking off. Where sand and cement on a Lytchett Matravers house has parted from the background we hack off to the brick or block, prepare and clean down the wall, stabilise anything friable, and put a new basecoat on with mesh through it at the openings. Blown render cannot be stuck back and it cannot be sealed over.
Silicone thin coat. A polymer basecoat, a full mesh, a primer and a through-coloured silicone topcoat scraped to a texture. It moves better than sand and cement and sheds water off a block wall that expands and contracts. On the 1970s and early 1980s houses in Lytchett Matravers that is usually the right answer.
Monocouche. One through-coloured material applied in two passes and scraped back the next day. There is no paint on it, so a scratch does not show a different colour underneath. It wants a good background and it is unforgiving of a wall patched a dozen times.
Traditional sand and cement. A scratch coat and a float coat, ruled off and painted. Still the right specification in plenty of places, and what most of the original panels here are.
Pebbledash and Tyrolean. Dashing throws aggregate into a wet coat, Tyrolean is flicked on from a machine. Both are repairable, and both are texture matched from a sample panel.
Render over external wall insulation. On an EWI job the render is not decoration, it is the weather face of the system. It goes on a render carrier board or straight onto the insulation, with a full mesh basecoat and a thin coat over it, and every bead, sill and soil pipe has to be reset to the new thickness. That is the thermal upgrade people look at while the scaffold is already up.
Solid walls that have to breathe. A period wall in Lytchett Matravers, pre-1919 and with no cavity, dries through its own face. Put a plastic-rich modern system on one and the moisture is trapped and comes out inside instead. Those walls want a breathable lime render, softer than what it covers.
Beads, bellcast and stop ends. A bellcast at the bottom of a panel throws water clear of the wall below. Stop beads give a clean edge at a corner or a soffit, angle beads keep a reveal straight. Where a panel was stopped on nothing at all, that is usually where it failed.
Cracking, delamination and algae. Map crazing is a surface problem. Green growth on a shaded elevation is treated rather than blasted, because a pressure washer takes the face off a thin coat.
How it runs
Re-rendering a gable or a whole elevation

Thomas taps his way across each elevation, marking where the render rings hollow, and prices it himself. The quote separates the scaffold, sheeting windows and the drive, hacking off and preparing the wall, the render system you choose and the coats it needs, the beads and stop ends, and the making good around sills and pipes.
On the seventies houses in Lytchett Matravers, render is often a panel on a gable or a band under the upstairs windows, with brick below. A bungalow gable can be done from a tower, while a full elevation on a detached house needs scaffold that stays up while each coat cures. We mask windows, cover the drive, clear up daily and take the hacked-off render away. If the blockwork behind crumbles, you get pictures and a written extra before anything more.
Lytchett Matravers has no conservation area, so putting a similar render back on an unlisted house counts as repair, and Planning Portal guidance on external walls explains where that stops. On any of the fifteen listed entries a change of render needs listed building consent. Re-rendering a whole elevation is also the point where Approved Document L asks whether to insulate while the scaffold is up.
Cost
Blown panels, bellcast beads and choosing the system
The price follows what is already stuck to the wall, not how big the wall is. Hollow or sound. Render that is still bonded can be patched and given a new coat. Where the sand and cement has let go of the brick, or old pebbledash has come away in sheets, it all has to come off before anything new goes on. That hacking off is invisible from the road, so Thomas taps every elevation before he quotes.
Which render. A through-coloured monocouche, a thin silicone coat on a basecoat and mesh, and a traditional sand and cement finish all cost different amounts and behave differently. On the solid walls of the older cottages, a hard cement render traps moisture, so a breathable lime or silicone system is the better match.
The details. A bellcast bead to throw water clear at the base, stop ends, angle beads at corners and new sills cost extra, but they keep water out of the line where render meets brick.
Scaffold time. Each coat needs curing time, so the platform stands for the whole system. The work at height rules are the reason access is a separate line.
Ask of a competing quote which system it uses and how many coats, whether the old render is being removed or covered over, and whether scaffold is included.
If it has started to come away
Render that sounds hollow or has cracked open
Tap a patch of render and hear it ring hollow, or find a crack you could slide a coin into, and water is already behind it. A frost or two and it starts to drop. If a piece has already fallen, keep people away from the wall below.
Phone rather than using the form. We knock off anything loose, sheet the wall if rain is forecast, and price the elevation once we can see how far the bond has failed. On a Lytchett Matravers gable panel the bottom edge often goes first, where the render stops on the brickwork with no bead to shed the water. Rendering is booked Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. If nobody picks up, we will call you as soon as we are able.
Worth knowing
Whole streets here were detailed the same way
A lot of this village went up in one long run from the late 1960s to the early 1980s. Builders working a site in those years used the same detail on every plot, so a whole road can share one rendered upper storey, one gable panel and one way of stopping the render at the bottom of it. When that detail is a weak one it does not fail on one house. It fails on the road.
The detail that catches people out is the base of the panel. On a lot of the Lytchett Matravers stock the render was taken down and finished on the brickwork below with no bellcast bead to throw water off. Rain wicks into that joint, freezes and lifts the bottom courses away from the block. From the ground you see a faint stain, but tapped it sounds hollow for a metre up. So start at the bottom edge rather than the crack you noticed.
Who you are dealing with
Who is behind the render quote
Thomas Hannen owns the firm and prices every rendering job himself after tapping the walls. We are based in Boscombe, about eleven miles off, and cover Lytchett Matravers, Lytchett Minster, Upton, Organford and Post Green, broadly BH16, where Dorset Council is the authority.
Our registered company is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. On Checkatrade a verified customer rated the job 10 out of 10. The site visit is free and so is the written quote, broken into lines. Before you book a visit in Lytchett Matravers, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Lytchett Matravers?
Most repairs in Lytchett Matravers need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Lytchett Matravers |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Lytchett Matravers. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Lytchett Matravers, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Lytchett Matravers. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Lytchett Matravers. |
Questions
Questions about rendering in Lytchett Matravers
Can you render just the patch that has blown?
Only if it stops at something. Render has to finish on a bead, a corner or an opening, or the joint shows as a line and a shadow across the wall. If the hollow area runs into the middle of a panel we would rather take the panel back to its natural edge than leave you looking at a repair.
Our gable is cracked. Does all of it have to come off?
Not automatically: fine crazing all over is a surface problem and can be bridged with mesh and recoated. A single crack running down from a window corner is movement, and covering it achieves nothing. The answer is in how far the hollow sound carries, not in how the crack looks.
Which system would you put on a 1970s house here?
Usually a silicone thin coat over a mesh reinforced basecoat. Those walls are lightweight block, they move with the weather, and a thin coat moves with them. Monocouche suits an even background, and traditional sand and cement is still right on some elevations.
Will the render be painted, or is the colour in it?
Depends what you pick. Silicone thin coat and monocouche are through-coloured, so a chip shows the same colour behind it. Sand and cement takes a breathable masonry paint, which you will want to look at again in due course.
Do you need a scaffold for one gable?
Above single storey, yes. A gable is built up in coats over several days, so the platform has to stand for the whole system and reach the verge. A porch cheek comes off a tower. Access is its own line on the quote either way.
Nearby, and next door
Rendering near Lytchett Matravers
Nearby places we also cover for rendering, with straight-line distances from Lytchett Matravers, and the other trades we offer in Lytchett Matravers itself.
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Rendering guides
Silicone, cement or lime: which render? Cracked render: which cracks matter Listed building consent for repointing and re-renderingEverything we do in Corfe Mullen Rendering, all areas Every area we cover
Free quote
Get the gable tapped before you price the render
Thomas comes out, taps the whole elevation, tells you how far the hollow area really goes and itemises the work. The visit and the quote are free.
