Repointing in Bearwood, BH11
Hard mortar, hard brick and one gable taking all the weather. We price the elevation that needs doing, not the whole house.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
Last updated
Your pointing needs attention when joints have opened at the arris, pitted, or let frost lift the edge of the brick, usually on one exposed elevation. Nearly every house in Bearwood is a post war or eighties cavity wall in hard cement mortar, so the job is raking out that face and matching the gauge, never switching to lime. Bricks cracked right through need cutting out and rebuilding.
So the honest first question is whether you need repointing at all. Plenty of what gets called failed pointing on an estate like Bearwood is surface weathering that will sit there for another twenty years. What is worth attending to is a joint you can get a key into, a joint that is crumbling out onto the path below, a run of open joints under a sill, or brick faces that have started to shell off after a hard winter.
We come and look, free, and we are blunt about it. If a wall is sound we will tell you it is sound. If one gable is open and the other three faces are fine, the quote covers the gable. Everything we find is photographed and priced elevation by elevation so you can see exactly what you are being asked to pay for.
The work
What actually goes wrong on a Bearwood wall

The exposed gable. On a Bearwood estate laid out in the seventies and eighties there is usually one elevation catching the weather off the open ground and three that are sheltered by the next house along. That one face weathers years ahead of the rest.
The joints do not wash out, they erode back at the edges until water can stand in them, and then a sharp frost lifts the mortar in flakes and takes brick faces with it. Patch repointing an exposed gable, cutting out the handful of spalled bricks and leaving the rest alone, is the right repair on a house of this age, and it is a matter of days.
Where a joint has been made too strong or too weak. Estate brickwork went up fast, and the mortar gauge varied from plot to plot with the weather and the mixer. Too weak and the joint is friable and comes away under a thumbnail. Too strong and the joint outlives the brick, so the faces spall while the pointing looks perfect. We test a few joints on the visit rather than guess, because the two problems look identical from the pavement and want opposite repairs.
Sills, bays, porches and garage returns. Water that ought to be thrown clear of a wall very often is not. A cracked sill, a blocked gutter or a downpipe discharging onto brick keeps one strip of wall permanently wet, and that strip is where the mortar goes first. We deal with the joints and tell you what is soaking them, because repointing a wall that is still being rained on from a gutter is money thrown away. Bay returns and the low brick either side of a garage opening get the same treatment.
Boundary walls, and the bottom three courses. Terraced and semi detached plots in Bearwood nearly all have a low brick wall to the front or a dividing wall between drives, and those have no shelter at all and often no damp proof course. They wick water up, the bottom courses go soft, and coping joints open and let the rain into the top. Raking out and repointing the top and the exposed face, and cutting out the worst of the frost damaged bricks, keeps them standing.
What we do not put on your wall. There is no pre-1919 stock in Bearwood at all. The NHL lime and lime putty mixes we use on Victorian and Edwardian solid wall property in the older parts of town would be too soft for a fired modern brick in a cavity, and putting lime on your house because it sounds traditional would be the wrong answer. Your wall wants a cement and sand mortar gauged to suit the brick, matched on colour and struck to the profile that is already there, which on this stock is nearly always bucket handle.
How it runs
Raking out cement joints and pointing them to match

Thomas comes out and scrapes a few joints himself to see how far back the mortar has gone and whether the brick behind is sound. Houses in Bearwood were built in cement-based mortar, so he matches that rather than guessing. His written quote prices access, raking out, the mix, each elevation by its area, replacing any spalled bricks, and taking the waste away.
Each face is raked and pointed before the next is started. Windows and paths are sheeted because raking throws dust about. A raked-out wall is never left open to rain; it is pointed or covered before we leave. Each day ends with a sweep, and the old mortar goes away with us. If raking shows cracked bricks behind a face that looked sound, you get a picture of them and a price before we carry on.
There is no conservation area in Bearwood and only three listed entries nearby, so on an ordinary estate house repointing is repair, with no planning application and nothing for building control, whatever mortar goes in. If your address were listed, repointing would need consent first, and the council keeps the list for Bournemouth, Christchurch and Poole.
Cost
Weather sides, joint depth and matching modern mortar

Repointing in Bearwood has no square metre rate; the joints tell you the size of the job. Access. A two storey semi with a gable reachable from a tower, a detached house with a chimney on the ridge, and a dividing wall between two drives are three different set-ups and three lines on the quote. The work at height rules are why access is priced on its own.
Depth. Joints should be raked back to sound mortar. Hand raking is slow; a disc is faster but risks widening the joint and chipping the arris, so we keep it to the middle of the joint.
The mix. The houses here are post-war, mostly hard fired facing brick laid in cement mortar. A cement, lime and sand mix suits them and moves a little with the wall. A pure lime mortar is right on soft old brick, and that is rare in Bearwood. Too strong a mix on any brick risks spalled faces after a hard frost.
Colour and finish. Matching the sand and the joint profile, flush, bucket handle or weathered, is what makes new pointing disappear.
The cause. Joints washed out under a leaking gutter or downpipe will wash out again unless that is fixed first.
Ask other quotes how deep the joints are raked and with what, what the mix is, how many spalled bricks come out, and whether the scaffold is in the price.
If water is getting in
Water coming through a wall with open joints

Joints that have washed out let wind-driven rain through to the inside, and round a chimney it finds the flashings too. On houses like these the usual culprit is a gutter or downpipe leaking over the wall, so tell us what the wall looks like in rain.
Ring rather than filling in the form. We find the worst joints on the first visit, sheet or point them temporarily, and check the rainwater goods above. The full elevation is priced when the brick is dry enough for us to judge it. Scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. If we are mid-job and miss your call, we ring back as soon as we can.
Worth knowing
Nothing here is old enough to want lime
Bearwood is unusual for this side of the conurbation in having no Victorian or Edwardian housing in it whatsoever. Four fifths of it went up between the end of the war and the end of the nineteen eighties, and the peak decade is the eighties.
Every one of those houses is a cavity wall: an outer skin of hard fired brick, an air gap, and an inner leaf. That single fact settles most of the arguments about mortar before they start.
It matters because the advice you find online about repointing is mostly written about solid walls, where the mortar has to be softer and more breathable than the brick so the wall can dry outwards. Your wall does not dry that way. The cavity does that work. Putting a soft lime mix into a modern joint on an exposed Bearwood gable gives you a joint that erodes again inside a decade. So when you compare quotes here, the question is not lime or cement, it is what gauge of cement mortar, matched to what, and struck to which profile. If somebody quotes you for lime repointing on an eighties house without looking at the brick first, they have not looked at the brick.
Who you are dealing with
Who repoints walls in BH10 and BH11
Kinson, Wallisdown, Ensbury Park and Merley are all on our repointing patch, along with Bearwood itself, 5 miles from our Boscombe base. That spans BH10 and BH11, under Bournemouth, Christchurch and Poole Council. The firm you deal with is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Bearwood, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Its owner is Thomas Hannen, who scrapes the joints, measures the walls and prices the work himself. Checkatrade has a verified customer's 10 out of 10 on our profile. No charge applies to the visit or to the written quote, broken into its parts.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Bearwood?
Most repairs in Bearwood need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Bearwood |
|---|---|
| Who decides | BCP Council is the planning authority for Bearwood. BCP Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Bearwood, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Bearwood. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Bearwood. |
Questions
Questions about repointing in Bearwood
Our house is from the eighties. Can it really need repointing already?
One elevation of it can, yes. Forty years of driven rain on an unsheltered gable is enough to open the joints at the arris, and once water stands in a joint the frost does the rest. The other three faces are usually years behind. That is why we price by elevation instead of by the house.
How do we tell surface weathering from a joint that has actually failed?
Push a key into it: if it scratches the surface and stops, that is weathering and it can wait. If it goes in a few millimetres, or the mortar comes away as loose sand, the joint has gone and water is getting behind the face. Tapping along a course helps too, because a hollow note means the pointing has parted from the brick.
Can you match the mortar colour on an estate house?
Usually very closely: we take a sample off a sheltered part of the wall, match the sand and the gauge, and put up a trial panel for you to look at in daylight before the rest goes on. New mortar always sits a shade lighter than aged mortar for the first year or two, so the panel is judged on how it will weather.
Is a survey and quote really free?
Yes. Thomas comes out himself, looks at every elevation, photographs what he finds and sends a written itemised quote with access, raking out, the mortar and any brick replacement on separate lines. There is nothing to pay for the site visit and no obligation afterwards.
Nearby, and next door
Repointing near Bearwood
Nearby places we also cover for repointing, with straight-line distances from Bearwood, and the other trades we offer in Bearwood itself.
Repointing nearby
Our other trades in Bearwood
Repointing guides
Lime or cement mortar: which do you need? Reading a repointing quote: rake out Listed building consent for repointing and re-renderingEverything we do in Kinson Repointing, all areas Every area we cover
Free quote
Not sure whether your pointing has actually gone?
We will come and test a few joints, photograph each face and tell you straight. The visit and the written quote are free.
