Loft insulation in Bearwood
Topping up, clearing out, boarding for storage and rafter level work in Bearwood lofts, priced from what is actually above your ceiling.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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For a Bearwood loft the aim is 270mm or so of mineral wool, normally by topping up the old layer with a second one across the joists. Depth in the middle is the easy half. The care goes into the eaves, which have to stay open, the hatch, the storage boards, which sit on legs above the wool, and the tank and its pipes, which want lagging. Anything below the loft is on insulation in Bearwood.
What starts it in Bearwood is usually plain enough. A landing or a back bedroom that stays cold whatever the thermostat says. A loft stacked with boxes that somebody wants boarded properly. Or a survey before a sale that has put the loft in writing for the first time.
We come out to Bearwood and get up there rather than looking in from the hatch. That means measuring the real depth in three or four places, putting a hand into the eaves to see whether air can still get past, checking what has been done around the downlighters and the cables, and looking at the underside of the felt for the damp marks that tell you the roof is not breathing. The site visit and the written quote are free.
The work
Depth in the middle is the easy half

Two layers, and the second one crossways. A ceiling joist in a Bearwood loft is not deep enough to hold what a ceiling needs, so a single layer laid flush between the joists leaves you a third of the way there with every timber acting as a cold bridge.
The first layer goes between the joists. The second is laid across and over the joists at right angles, bringing the total to around 270mm, which is the depth behind the U-value Part L expects. When it is right there are no joist tops visible anywhere in the loft.
What goes down. Mineral wool for most Bearwood lofts, as a glass wool roll or a firmer rockwool batt. Loose fill where the joists are at odd centres or a trussed roof is too tight to work a roll into. PIR rigid board where headroom is short, cut tight and taped, and a multi-foil quilt where even board will not fit. Sheep wool if you would rather. What is already there stays if it is dry and even, and comes out bagged if it is damp, patchy, missing at the edges, settled and compressed to nothing, or contaminated with droppings.
The eaves, which is where lofts are ruined. Insulation goes out to the wall plate and no further and the air path past it stays open. Vent trays hold a clear air gap under the felt so cross ventilation carries on from one side to the other, and where a roof cannot breathe at the edge a ridge vent is sometimes the answer instead. A breathable membrane changes the detail but not the principle. Push wool hard into the eaves and the vapour that used to leave the roof space condenses on the underlay instead. You get wet insulation, black mould on the rafters and, in time, soft timber. Insulating moves the dew point, and interstitial condensation inside the layer is the failure nobody sees until the ceiling stains.
Electrics, pipes and the hatch. Recessed lights get proper covers, not wool piled over them. Cables come up above the new layer rather than under it, because wiring buried in insulation runs hot and has to be de-rated. Any cold water tank and its pipework now sit in a colder space and want lagging, with the area under the tank deliberately left thinner. The hatch gets a board of insulation on its back and a compression seal, because an unsealed hatch is a hole in the ceiling and a draught you can feel on the landing.
How it runs
Laying a loft top-up between and over the trusses

Thomas climbs into your Bearwood loft himself. Roofs of this age are nearly always trussed, with a thin layer of insulation laid when the house was built and a small hatch, so he measures what is there, checks that the eaves vents are open and looks at how the cables run.
The written quote covers the survey, bagging and removing old material where it has to go, new mineral wool to a stated depth, trays or vents to keep the eaves open, insulating and sealing the hatch, lagging the pipework, and disposal.
We sheet the landing below the hatch and bag old material up in the loft. Cables are lifted to sit above the new layer, downlighters are covered with hoods, and the tank and pipes that will now sit in the cold are lagged. Everything taken out leaves with us. A damp timber or a roof leak found on the way is photographed and priced for you first.
Insulating a loft floor is not development, so there is no application and permitted development limits never apply, as Planning Portal guidance on insulation confirms. Bearwood lies outside every conservation area on the council's list. Building control only comes in if you convert the loft or renovate more than half the roof, when regulation 23 applies.
Cost
Trusses and stored boxes slow a loft top-up down

We will not give you a per square metre figure for a loft. Unrolling insulation across the open middle is quick; the edges and whatever is in the way take the time.
The climb. In an eighties semi in Bearwood the hatch is often a small square on the landing. A detached house may have half the loft boarded and stacked with boxes, and a terrace can have a loft ladder landing in a narrow hall. Each changes how the work starts.
Trussed rafters. Roofs of this age are almost all trussed, with diagonal webs running across the loft. Every roll is cut to fit round them, which is slower than a clear bay between joists.
The original layer. What went in when the house was built is thin by today's standard. If it is clean and dry the new layer is laid over it crossways; if it is damp or dirty, it comes out in bags first.
Keeping storage. Boards screwed straight onto the joists squash the insulation. Raised loft legs lift a storage deck clear of it, and that is priced as its own line.
The eaves and hatch. Air has to reach the eaves, the hatch needs insulating and a seal, and the full depth has to reach the wall plate. Approved Document L sets the target.
When you compare, find out the depth being laid and whether it goes in two layers, whether the old material is being removed, whether the eaves are kept open, and whether the hatch and pipes are part of the price.
If the loft is wet
Wet felt, mould on the trusses or a damp loft floor

Water droplets on the underside of the felt, black mould on the trusses, or insulation that feels damp all point to warm moist air getting into a Bearwood loft that cannot breathe. Left alone, the timbers suffer. Phone us about it; the form is slower.
The first visit checks the ventilation, the bathroom extractor and the hatch before any more is laid, because more insulation in an unvented loft makes condensation worse. If a roof leak is behind it, that gets made safe before anything else. Scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. For a wet loft, ring, and if we cannot pick up, the call is returned as soon as we can.
Worth knowing
In a terrace your loft stops at a wall you cannot see
Getting on for three in ten homes in Bearwood are terraced, with plenty of semis besides, and that puts a separating wall somewhere above your ceiling. In most of them it carries on up through the roof space to the underside of the tiles, so your loft genuinely ends there and your neighbour's begins on the far side.
We insulate to that line and no further, and nothing we lay is allowed to sit against it in a way that interferes with the separation.
The practical points are small and they matter. The corner where that wall meets the eaves is the tightest spot in the whole roof and the one most often left bare, so it gets filled by hand rather than by pushing a roll at it. If there is an open cavity at the top of the wall, that is a route for cold air to arrive above your bedroom ceiling and it wants closing. And if the row went up as one job, whatever is wrong in your loft is usually wrong next door, which is worth a word with a neighbour. On an EPC the loft is the one item an assessor measures rather than assumes, and on the heating bill it is the first thing that moves.
Who you are dealing with
Your loft surveyed by the owner of the firm
Bearwood is 5 miles from our Boscombe base. We insulate lofts here and in Kinson, Longham, Merley, West Parley and Broadstone, with BCP Council for planning and building control. The business is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Bearwood, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
The person who goes up into your loft and prices the work is Thomas Hannen, who owns it. Checkatrade records a verified customer's 10 out of 10. The visit is on us, and so is the itemised written quote.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Bearwood?
Most repairs in Bearwood need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Bearwood |
|---|---|
| Who decides | BCP Council is the planning authority for Bearwood. BCP Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Bearwood, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Bearwood. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Bearwood. |
Questions
Questions about loft insulation in Bearwood
How long are you here for?
A day covers it, nearly always. A straight top up over sound existing material is a morning where the loft is empty. What adds time is clearing out old material, emptying and refilling a loft used for storage, and the detailing at the perimeter, which is slow work on your front.
Can you board over the top for storage?
Yes, on loft legs. They stand a raised floor above the full depth so the quilt underneath is never squashed, which is what ruins most boarded lofts. A platform laid straight onto the joists presses the insulation to whatever the joist depth happens to be and you lose most of what you paid for.
We have a room in the roof. Is that the same job?
No, with no loft floor to work on, the insulation goes at rafter level instead: rigid board cut between the rafters with a clear gap kept above it, a second layer under, and the sloping ceiling, the dormer cheeks and the flat top over it all treated as one warm roof. It is a slower job and it is priced separately.
We share a wall with next door. Does that change anything?
Only at the edges. Your roof space stops at the separating wall, so the work stops there too. The corner where that wall meets the eaves is the tightest part of the loft and the piece most often left bare, and if there is an open cavity at the top of the wall it is worth closing.
Nearby, and next door
Loft insulation near Bearwood
Nearby places we also cover for loft insulation, with straight-line distances from Bearwood, and the other trades we offer in Bearwood itself.
Loft insulation nearby
Our other trades in Bearwood
Loft insulation guides
Part L: do you have to insulate when you re-roof? Loft condensation or a roof leak: how to tell PIR board vs mineral wool: which insulation?Everything we do in Kinson Loft insulation, all areas Every area we cover
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Find out what is actually above your ceiling
Free site visit in Bearwood, free written itemised quote, and a straight answer on whether the loft is the right place to spend.
