Repointing in Ashley, one elevation at a time

The south west wall is usually years ahead of the other three, so we survey all four and price the one that is actually due.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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You rarely need to repoint a whole house in Ashley. Joints are due once they have weathered back behind the brick or crumble under a key, and here that is usually the south west wall, years ahead of the sheltered three. The job is raking out and refilling that face, with the others marked on the quote as not due yet. A crack running through the bricks themselves needs rebuilding, not new mortar.

On an Ashley bungalow most of the evidence can be seen from the lawn. One elevation gone visibly open while the rest of the house looks fine. Mortar you can rake out of a joint with a car key. Brick faces flaking in thin plates under a sill or beside a downpipe. A chimney putting sand into the gutter every time the wind gets up.

Each of those is a joint problem, and the bricks behind it are sound. The site visit surveys all four faces, not the one you noticed, because the point is to work out which are due and which are not. Joints get scraped, courses tapped for the hollow note that means the pointing has parted from the brick, and a sample of the sound original comes off a sheltered spot to match to. Everything is photographed and priced elevation by elevation, in writing, free.

The work

Where the mortar goes first on an Ashley wall

Repointing a brick wall by hand, mortar being struck into a raked-out joint (illustrative photo for repointing in Ashley)
Struck by handOne joint at a time, filled and struck so the face sheds water. Illustrative photo.

The weather side goes first. Driven rain from the south west works at the edges and openings rather than the middle of a wall: around window heads and sills, at the verge, at a corner, and anywhere a joint has opened enough for water to stand in it. That face gets raked deeper and pointed in a mortar a shade softer than the sheltered walls, so it gives the water back through the joint rather than the brick face.

Late fifties and early sixties brickwork. Nearly half the housing in Ashley dates from between 1945 and 1982, the busiest years being the late fifties and early sixties. That is a single skin of fired brick over a cavity, and the mortar of that period was often gauged with lime as well as cement, so it fails gently: the joint erodes at the arris, water stands in it, and frost takes the surface off in flakes. A hard modern mix in a softer old joint gives sound pointing and spalling brick.

The inter-war and pre-1919 properties. A useful share of the housing in Ashley is from between the wars, and the oldest of it is period solid wall construction with no cavity, breathable by design. Those want an NHL lime or lime putty mix gauged to the original sand and raked by hand to about twice the joint width, flush or slightly recessed rather than weather struck. The angle grinder stays in the van: a disc cutter widens the joint and takes the arris off a soft brick. Joints are damped down before filling and brushed back once the mix has taken up.

Chimney stacks and flaunching. A chimney stack in Ashley is weathered on four sides with nothing warming it, so its joints go loose, friable and crumbling well before the walls do, and the water that gets in arrives as penetrating damp on a bedroom ceiling. We repoint the stack, cut out the frost damaged bricks and renew the flaunching. The platform is its own line on the quote.

Spalled faces, cut out and replaced. Where a face has blown we cut the brick out whole and turn or replace it against a sample held on the wall, rather than filling the hollow with mortar, which never matches. Spalling collects under sills, beside downpipes, at the corners of a bay and just above the damp proof course where a drive or patio has been built up against the house.

Porches, garages and low front walls. Short lengths of brickwork around a porch, beside a garage opening or along the front of a plot have no shelter and often a coping that has stopped shedding water. Rain gets in at the top, freezes and opens the joints from inside. Repointing the coping bed is small work at the right time. What we will not do is point a wall being soaked by a gutter running over.

How it runs

Repointing the weather side of a bungalow

Raked-out joints on a red brick pier being filled with fresh mortar (one of our own jobs, shown for repointing in Ashley)
Raked back firstDepth before filling. A disc widens the joint and takes the arris off. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas picks out the old mortar in a handful of places round your Ashley house, looks up at the stack, and then prices the job himself. On paper you get separate figures for access, raking out, the mortar mix he proposes, the area on each face, replacement bricks, and taking the dust and rubble away. You deal with one company throughout.

On houses in Ashley, the south west elevation and the chimney above it take the wind and rain, so that face often needs doing while the sheltered sides are fine. Bungalow walls are low and come off a tower from the lawn, and a semi gable or a stack needs a scaffold. Sheets go down under each wall, soft brick is raked by hand, and we clear up each evening.

Should the raking uncover more spalled bricks, you will see photos and a price before any are replaced. Repointing like for like is repair, not development, so there is no planning application and building control has nothing to sign off. Ashley has no conservation area but five listed entries, where the mortar is protected fabric, so a change of mix, sand colour or joint profile needs listed building consent. We check an address against the list before a mixer is filled.

Cost

Hand raking, the right mix and the south west wall

Brick corner with a moulded plinth course, mortar matched to the original work (illustrative photo for repointing in Ashley)
Matched, not guessedColour, sand and joint profile picked up from what is already there. Illustrative photo.

We never price by the square metre, because the area tells you little until the joints have been looked at. Reaching it. Bungalow walls in Ashley are low, so a tower from the lawn does most of it. The gable of a two storey semi, or a chimney, needs a scaffold, and that is costed separately under the work at height rules.

Depth and damage. A disc cutter is fast, but it widens the joint and chips the arris, so on a soft brick the raking is done by hand. How far back the old mortar has gone, and how many faces have spalled, decides the hours.

The mix. Post-war bricks in Ashley were mostly laid in cement mortar, and repointing them in a matched cement or hydraulic lime mix is normal. On the few older walls, lime is right, because a hard cement mortar traps moisture in a soft brick, and frost then pops the face off.

Exposure. The south west face takes the driven rain, so a weather-struck joint that sheds water matters more there than on a sheltered side, which is why BS 8104 treats exposure as the first question.

Ask how deep the joints are raked and with what, which mix is used and whether it was matched, and whether the scaffold is included.

If water is getting in

Damp on an inside wall after driving rain

Stone gable with the joints repointed in a lime mortar (illustrative photo for repointing in Ashley)
Stone wants limeOn rubble stone the mortar is most of the surface, and it has to breathe. Illustrative photo.

Open joints let driven rain straight through to the inside face, and on a chimney the water finds the flashings too. Note which side of the house the damp shows on, usually the south west here, and whether it follows windy rain.

Take a photograph of the outside if you can. At the first visit the joints are checked, the worst patches covered or temporarily pointed if rain is forecast, and the whole wall priced once it has dried out. Scheduled repointing runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. When damp is showing inside, ring us instead of sending the form; if we miss you, we phone back at the earliest chance.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Point the wall the weather reaches, and leave the rest

On a two storey house the worst of the weathering is in the top third of the exposed elevation, and the lower half often has years left in it.

Something over four in ten homes in Ashley are single storey, and on those there is no upper floor taking the brunt: the whole exposed face weathers at the same rate from the ground to the eaves. That is why a bungalow's south west wall can be thoroughly open along its full height while the other three still look almost new. It is not neglect. It is one wall doing all the work.

The useful thing is to buy it in the right order. Have all four elevations surveyed and priced, do the one that is due, and get the sheltered faces marked in the quote as not due rather than quietly left off it. Decide before the work starts where it stops, because fresh mortar reads lighter than aged and a repair ending halfway along a blank wall shows for good. If a quote arrives as one figure for the whole property, ask for it broken down by elevation.

Who you are dealing with

Who points your brickwork, and how to check them

We repoint across BH25 and into SO41: Ashley, New Milton, Bashley, Barton on Sea, Milford on Sea and Everton, mostly under New Forest District Council, though part of Bashley lies inside the National Park, and Ashley itself is 8.9 miles from Boscombe.

It is Thomas Hannen's company, Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales as number 15471719, and Thomas scrapes the joints and prices each job himself. One customer, verified by Checkatrade, gave us 10 out of 10. The visit is free, and the written quote setting out each item is free as well. Before you book a visit in Ashley, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Ashley?

Most repairs in Ashley need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Ashley, from council and national records.
Question In Ashley
Who decides New Forest District Council is the planning authority for Ashley. The National Park boundary runs close by, and the Park's property map shows which side an address falls.
Conservation area None covers Ashley, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Ashley. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Ashley.

Questions

Questions about repointing in Ashley

Which elevation should we do first?

Whichever one is taking the weather, which here is almost always the south west face. It will be further gone than the others by years, and dealing with it is what stops water reaching the inside face. We survey all four so the decision rests on scraped joints and photographs.

If we point one wall now, will the join show later?

Not if it stops somewhere the eye expects. Fresh mortar reads lighter than aged for a year or two, so a repair ending mid elevation stays visible. Taken to a corner, a downpipe or a porch return it disappears. We agree those break points at the survey.

How long should a repointed elevation last before it is due again?

Longer than the one it replaced, if the mix is right, which is why we match the old mix and never default to something strong. A properly gauged joint on a sheltered wall is a generation. On the weather face it is less. What shortens it every time is a mortar harder than the brick, which pushes the damage into the face.

Is it worth doing the sheltered sides while you are here?

Usually not, and we would say so. If the joints on those faces are sound there is nothing to gain from opening them up. The exception is anything needing the same access as work you are already paying for, a stack being the obvious one.

What time of year is best for this kind of work?

Spring through to early autumn is easiest, because mortar needs to cure, and frost or a drying wind stops that. Lime has to be protected from frost while it takes up. We work through the winter on sheltered elevations and on anything letting water in, and will say when a job is better left a few weeks.

Free quote

Find out which walls are due and which are not

Thomas comes out, scrapes and taps all four elevations, photographs them and sends a written itemised quote with the sound faces marked as sound. Free.