Rendering in Ashley

Most of the render round here is original dash from the late 1950s and early 1960s, and matching a patch into it is harder than people expect.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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For render in Ashley, the first decision is patch or re-render. Most houses carry their original late 1950s dash, and a patch in it will always show, because the aggregate came from pits that closed decades ago. Blown or cracked areas can be cut out to a corner or a bay so the join reads as a panel. If you want the mismatch gone, a silicone thin coat over the whole elevation ends it. Cracked plaster on the inside face is a separate plastering job.

Much of Ashley went up in the late 1950s and early 1960s and better than four homes in ten are bungalows. The original finish on most is a dry dash or a Tyrolean flick over a traditional render, and sixty odd years on it is shedding, crazing and letting go in patches.

So the first job is finding out how much is still stuck. We tap the whole elevation, mark the hollow areas and then talk about matching, because there is no point discussing aggregate until we know how much wall there is. Visit and quote both free.

The work

Dashed elevations, hollow areas and honest matching

A house elevation part way through rendering, old finish on one side and new render on the other (illustrative photo for rendering in Ashley)
Half and halfThe old finish on one side, the new system on the other. Illustrative photo.

Sounding the elevation comes first. A knuckle goes over the whole of an Ashley wall. Sound render answers dead, blown render drums, and on a dashed wall the surface gives you almost no clue, because a filthy elevation can be perfectly sound and a tidy one can be hollow for a metre.

Matching from a sample panel. Where we are repairing rather than replacing, a panel goes up on your own Ashley wall with the aggregate and the throw we intend to use, and you judge it in daylight before we go further.

Hacking off. Render on an Ashley house that has parted from the background comes off to the brick or block, the wall is cleaned down, friable areas are stabilised and the background is left to dry. Nothing goes over a hollow area, however tempting it looks.

Pebbledash and Tyrolean. Dashing throws aggregate into a wet coat by hand, Tyrolean is flicked on from a machine, and both are still perfectly good finishes. Where a whole elevation is being redone, a matched modern aggregate gives an even, consistent wall in a way a patch never will.

Silicone thin coat. A polymer basecoat with a full mesh, a primer and a through-coloured silicone topcoat scraped to a texture. This is what most people move to when they decide to change the look rather than chase a match, and it flexes and sheds water better than the original ever did.

Monocouche. One through-coloured material in two passes, scraped back the following day. Crisp and even on a sound background, and less suited to a wall that has been repaired repeatedly over the years.

Traditional sand and cement. The scratch coat and float coat under most of the dash here, finished and painted with a breathable masonry paint. Where it is still stuck it is worth keeping.

Older solid walls. A few period, pre-1919 buildings sit among the newer stock. A solid wall dries through its own face, so it wants a breathable lime render rather than a modern system that leaves moisture trapped behind it.

Beads, bellcast and stop ends. A bellcast keeps the render clear of the ground, stop beads finish it at a soffit or a corner, and angle beads keep the reveals straight. Being near the coast, beads go in stainless, not galvanised.

Cracking, delamination and algae. Map crazing is a surface fault. A crack from a window head is movement. Frost turns either into a blown panel, and green growth is treated and cleaned at low pressure, never blasted off a dashed wall with a lance.

Render over external wall insulation. With EWI the render is the weather face of the system, over a render carrier board or the boards themselves, with a mesh basecoat and a thin coat over it, and every bead, sill and pipe reset to the new thickness. On a single storey house the access is modest, which makes it worth pricing.

How it runs

Re-rendering a bungalow or chalet, wall by wall

A rendered bungalow elevation finished and cleaned down, with beads and stop ends in place (illustrative photo for rendering in Ashley)
Beads and stop endsWhere the render stops is where it is judged. Illustrative photo.

Thomas goes round each wall tapping for hollow patches before he prices anything. The quote shows scaffold, protection, stripping and preparing the old surface, which render system and the number of coats, beads and stop ends at every edge, and making good. You deal with Thomas throughout, from hacking off to the finish coat.

Plenty of bungalows in Ashley carry pebbledash or painted render, and the south west walls take the worst of the weather. Bungalow walls are low enough for a tower. A gable with a dormer on a chalet, or the side of a two storey semi, needs scaffold that stays until the final coat. Windows, doors and paths are covered, and the old render is bagged and taken away. If the block behind is damaged, you get a photo and a price before we go on.

Swapping a tired render for a similar finish is repair on an ordinary house here, since the only protected buildings in Ashley are its five listed entries, and the external walls guidance explains the line. Planning sits with the district council rather than the park authority, though the park boundary is close enough that its property map is worth a look. Insulating the wall, not just recoating it, brings in Approved Document L and building control.

Cost

Pebbledash, sand and cement or a thin coat system

Rendering in Ashley has no rate per square metre. What is already on the wall decides the price. The platform. Bungalow walls come off a tower. A chalet gable round a dormer, or a two storey semi, keeps its scaffold while every coat cures. Under the work at height rules, that scaffold is costed as its own item.

What comes off first. Dash on an Ashley wall that has lost its grip on the block behind has to be hacked back to a sound background before anything new goes on. That hidden work sets the hours, and the only way to measure it is to tap the whole wall.

The system. Traditional sand and cement with a new dash, a monocouche through-coloured render, or a silicone thin coat, with or without insulation behind, each price and behave differently. Beads, bellcast and stop ends are part of every system.

Exposure. On the south west walls in Ashley, driven rain tests every crack and bead, so the detailing at sills and openings matters more than the colour.

Ask each renderer which system they are quoting, how many coats, whether they are taking the old render off or going over it, and what happens to the sills and pipework.

If it has started to come away

Dash falling off, or a crack you can get a coin into

A patch that sounds hollow, a crack wide enough for a coin, or a dashed panel shedding aggregate onto the path in handfuls is the render letting go, and water and frost will speed it up.

Keep people clear of the wall above a door or path, and sweep up what has fallen so nobody slips. On the first visit we make the loose area safe, cover it if rain is due, and the elevation is priced once the full extent of the hollow render is known. Scheduled rendering is Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. Please ring; the form is slower. If we are unable to answer, a return call follows at the first opportunity.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Why a dash repair never quite disappears

Pebbledash and Tyrolean get their colour from the stone in them, not from a pigment. The aggregate on a house built here in the late 1950s came from whatever local pit was supplying then, at whatever grading was normal, and both have long since changed. Sixty years of weather has lightened the exposed faces unevenly too. So a new patch can be matched carefully for size, colour and throw and still read as newer, because it is.

On an Ashley house the sensible ways round it cost very different amounts. Repair the failed area and accept a visible patch, which is right on a rear elevation or somewhere out of the eye line. Take the repair out to a natural break, a corner, a bay or a change of plane, so the eye reads a whole panel rather than a mend. Or redo the elevation in one go, re-dashed with a matched modern aggregate or changed to a through-coloured thin coat, which ends the matching problem for good. We will price whichever you want and say which we would choose on your wall.

Who you are dealing with

Who renders your house, and the firm you can check

For rendering we travel 8.9 miles from Boscombe to Ashley, and Barton on Sea, Hordle, New Milton and Bashley as well, all in New Forest District Council's patch. The person who taps each wall and prices the render is Thomas Hannen, owner of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, a company registered in England and Wales, number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Ashley, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

A verified customer left us 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. Nothing is charged for the site visit, nor for the written quote that itemises the job.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Ashley?

Most repairs in Ashley need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Ashley, from council and national records.
Question In Ashley
Who decides New Forest District Council is the planning authority for Ashley. The National Park boundary runs close by, and the Park's property map shows which side an address falls.
Conservation area None covers Ashley, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Ashley. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers Ashley.

Questions

Questions about rendering in Ashley

Can you match our pebbledash exactly?

A new dash in Ashley can match closely, not exactly. The stone in the original came from pits that no longer supply it, and weathering has changed the faces anyway. We put a sample panel on your wall so you can judge the match in daylight before committing, which is fairer than a promise.

Would you re-dash or change to a modern finish?

It depends on the wall and on you. Re-dashing keeps the house looking like itself and matches its neighbours. A through-coloured thin coat gives an even, low maintenance wall with no paint film and no matching problem. Both are proper answers and we will price either.

Our dash is dropping stones on the path. Is that serious?

The odd stone is normal on a wall of this age. Handfuls are not. That is the dash coat losing its grip, and once it starts the water gets in behind and the frost takes over. Worth tapping the elevation before another winter gets into it.

Can a dashed wall be pressure washed?

We would not. A lance drives water behind the dash and takes stones off with the dirt, so you trade green for bald patches. Low pressure cleaning and a treatment gets it back without loosening anything, which on a sixty year old finish matters.

Is it cheaper to do the whole bungalow at once?

Usually better value, yes. The access and the set-up are much the same whether you do one elevation or all four, so splitting the work means paying for that twice. It also removes the matching problem entirely, which on a dashed house is worth something.

Free quote

Get the dash tapped and a sample panel on the wall

Thomas comes out, sounds the elevation, puts a real match up where you can see it and itemises the options in writing. The visit and the quote are free.