Patios in Lover
Terraces built for gardens that sit in tree shade for most of the day and take a long time to dry out.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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The patio problem in Lover is rarely the paving itself. It is shade. Gardens here sit tight against mature trees and tall hedge, plenty of them face north, and a surface that never gets an hour of direct sun stays damp, goes green and turns slippery by the middle of autumn.
Shade on a Lover patio means a terrace you cannot walk on in socks in November, black and green staining that comes back a month after it is washed, and leaf litter sitting in open joints. Underneath it, slabs start to rock because the base has stayed wet all year.
A stronger jet wash will not fix it. The surface has to dry, which means real falls and full joints, and the material has to be one that does not feed algae. We come out to Lover, lift a slab, look at the base and take levels off the house, then price the work in writing with the dig, the sub base, the paving, the edges and the jointing itemised. The visit and the quote are free.
The work
Paving chosen for a garden that never dries

Porcelain comes first. Calibrated twenty millimetre porcelain absorbs almost nothing. There is no open pore for algae to root in and no water in the body of the slab for a frost to expand, so a shaded Lover terrace in porcelain stays workable with an occasional wash. It has to be laid on a full bed of mortar over a slurry primed back, never on dabs, because voids under a dense unit crack it.
The stones, honestly. Sandstone is warm and easy to lay and it is the one that greens worst in shade, because it is porous. Limestone is more even in colour and marks with iron. Granite is dense and copes far better with a permanently damp corner. Travertine we would steer you away from in a Lover garden. Hand cut stone varies in thickness and the mortar bed levels it; calibrated stone is sawn to one depth.
Getting the old surface out. Old concrete, decayed flags on sand, brick paviours or a raised bed all come out first, along with any roots crossing the area and any made ground. We excavate to firm formation and the spoil goes into a grab lorry or a skip and leaves with us.
The sub base. A geotextile separator over soft ground, then MOT Type 1 in compacted layers of about 100mm. Under trees the ground is often full of fine root and holds moisture, so the separator and the compaction matter more here than they do on an open plot.
Falls, and why they matter more in shade. A sunlit patio forgives a lazy fall because it dries anyway. A shaded one does not. Paving runs away from the building and finishes two courses below the DPC where it can, which is the point of Approved Document C, and the water goes to a gully, a soakaway where the ground takes it, or a permeable build so the runoff stays on your land.
Jointing. This is where shaded patios are won and lost. Stone is hand pointed in a matched mortar or given a brush in compound worked deep into a full joint and struck off. Porcelain takes a grout made for dense units. A joint filled short holds leaf mould and water, and that is exactly what the moss grows in.
Edges and steps. Edging bedded and haunched in concrete, a coping to any low retaining wall, a kerb line at the lawn and a gravel border along the house wall to take the drip. Steps get set out before the paving on a sloping woodland plot.
Repairs and cleaning. Re-bedding rocking slabs, rebuilding a sunken corner, swapping cracked units, renewing failed jointing, and cleaning down a green terrace and correcting the falls so it stops coming back every autumn.
How it runs
A patio for a shaded garden: the steps we follow

Thomas comes to see the Lover garden, the levels against the house, where the shade falls and where water runs now, and prices the patio himself. A plot close to trees stays damp and shady for much of the year, so the choice of stone and the fall matter more than usual, and he talks you through both.
The price is laid out as digging and removal, the hardcore base, levels and the line the water will take, edging and any steps, the stone itself, and the joints. Thomas is the one you deal with throughout. Everything comes in and out through the side of the house or a gate, with boards down over the lawn and paths. Each slab goes down on a full mortar bed. The site is swept every evening and the soil leaves with us. Hitting roots, an old slab or a buried drain in the dig means a photo and a price for you before we go on.
The New Forest National Park Authority decides planning at Lover and looks harder at design and materials than a district council, though a patio at ground level behind the house is normally permitted development. There is no conservation area and a handful of listed entries. The property map shows what applies, and paving is not building control work.
Cost
Stone, shade and the dig: pricing a patio
Paving is the bit you choose, and it is rarely where most of the money goes. Digging out. Lawn, an old concrete pad, a planted bed and roots all have to be broken out and removed, and that is costed by the load. Close to large trees, the roots dictate where the patio sits and how far down we can go without damaging them.
Getting in. A Lover cottage with a passage just wide enough for a barrow, a house with a wide side gate and a plot with an open drive to the back decide between hand work and a machine. Where every slab is carried by hand, it takes longer.
Stone for a shady spot. Smooth porcelain and some sandstones turn slippery with algae in shade. A textured finish and a good fall help, and that choice can change the cost of the stone.
Falls and the damp course. A patio has to drop away from the house and sit at least two courses below the damp proof course. On an older house with a low floor, that can mean digging down or fitting a channel drain, and getting it wrong puts water into the wall.
Jointing. A brush-in jointing compound and a wet mortar joint price differently.
Ask the other quotes: how deep is the dig and what sub-base is specified? Full bed or dabs? What fall, and where does the water go?
If it has become a hazard
A slippery, lifted or sunken patio
Ring rather than use the form. A paver that has tipped up at one edge, or a step that has sunk, catches feet, and a shady Lover patio in winter can grow green slime slippery enough to put someone on the ground.
Keep people off the worst of it and put something on it to mark it. If the problem is slipperiness rather than damage, tell us, because a clean, a treatment and a better fall often solve it without relaying. Where slabs have lifted, the worst are normally taken up and rebedded on the first visit, and then we check whether the base under the rest is still sound. Garden jobs are booked Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. Any call we miss is returned as soon as we can.
Worth knowing
Shade is a specification, not a complaint
A north facing terrace under trees gets a fraction of the drying that the same paving would get twenty feet away in the open. Algae need moisture and something to hold on to, and a porous slab with half empty joints gives them both. That is why the same patio can be green at one end and clean at the other.
Shade decides the material, because a dense porcelain or granite denies the growth a foothold that sandstone hands it. The falls follow from it, because a shaded surface has to shed water rather than hold a film of it. So does the jointing, because a full, well compacted joint is the difference between a surface that sheds leaf litter and one that composts it.
The trees themselves matter as well. In Lover we do not cut a root plate back to make a level. Where roots cross the area we lift the build slightly, put more stone in, keep the jointing flexible and accept a shallower dig over that stretch, because a tree that dies two years after the patio was laid costs you far more than the paving did.
Who you are dealing with
The firm that lays your patio in SP5
Patios in Lover, Redlynch, Woodfalls, Nomansland and the villages along this side of the Forest are priced by Thomas, working from Boscombe, 18.1 miles off. Planning questions go to the New Forest National Park Authority, and Wiltshire Council is the local council.
You would be dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company 15471719. It is Thomas Hannen's firm, and Thomas walks your garden and prices the patio in person. Checkatrade carries one verified customer's rating of 10 out of 10. Both his visit and your itemised written quote are free. Shade from the same trees falls across the front, and a driveway in Lover gets the same textured, low absorption surface. Before you book a visit in Lover, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Lover?
Most repairs in Lover need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Lover |
|---|---|
| Who decides | New Forest National Park Authority is the planning authority for Lover. New Forest National Park Authority's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Lover, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Lover. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | Inside the New Forest National Park, where design is looked at more closely and permitted development rights are narrower. |
Questions
Questions about patios in Lover
What is the best patio material for permanent shade?
Porcelain suits a shaded Lover patio best, then granite. Both are dense enough that algae struggle to take hold, so they clean up with a wash instead of needing treating every year.
Why does the green come back so fast after jet washing?
Because pressure takes the growth off and leaves the conditions that made it. If the falls are flat and the joints are open, the moisture stays and the algae return within a season.
Can I have sandstone anyway if I prefer the look?
Yes, with your eyes open. Build in proper falls, keep the joints full, and plan on treating it every year or two. Plenty of people are happy with that trade.
Will laying a patio damage the tree it sits under?
It can, if somebody digs through the roots. We raise the build over the root zone instead, use more stone and less excavation there, and keep the jointing flexible.
Do you clear the leaf litter and moss as part of a relay?
Yes. The old jointing is raked out, the surface cleaned down and the joints refilled properly, which is usually what makes the difference rather than the slabs being replaced.
Nearby, and next door
Patios near Lover
Nearby places we also cover for patios, with straight-line distances from Lover, and the other trades we offer in Lover itself.
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Our other trades in Lover
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Free quote
Stop the terrace going green every autumn
Thomas comes out, looks at the falls, the joints and the shade, and prices the work in writing. The visit and the quote are free.
