Patios in Hyde, drained before they are paved

Surface water risk is rated high around here, so the first question on a new terrace is not which slab you like but whether the ground will take the water the patio stops absorbing.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

A patio is a sealed surface, and on ground that already struggles to take surface water that has to be designed rather than assumed. The usual soakaway at the bottom of the garden is the first thing to test here, because if the ground will not swallow it, the water comes back up through the joints.

Most of what we get called to here is water. A terrace that stands in puddles for two days after rain. Slabs sunk in one corner where the base has washed. And a doorway where water now runs towards the house instead of away.

So the survey starts with a hole rather than a brochure. We dig a trial pit, see how fast it drains, take levels off the building, then price it in writing with the dig, the muck away, the sub base, the falls, the drainage, the edgings, the paving and the jointing on separate lines. The site visit and the itemised quote are free.

The work

Paving on ground that does not drain

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall.

Testing the ground. A trial pit filled with water tells you more than any survey on paper. If it stands, a soakaway will not work and the drainage has to go somewhere else. That single test decides most of what follows.

The dig and the muck away. Turf, topsoil, roots, old concrete and made ground get excavated out to a firm formation. On wet ground we dig in dry weather where we can, because a saturated subgrade will not compact. Spoil goes out to a grab lorry or a skip.

The sub base. MOT type 1 in compacted layers, deeper where the ground is soft, with a geotextile between subgrade and stone so the two do not pump together in the wet. Hardcore is fine on a small dry area but not on ground like this.

Permeable build ups. Where the ground will take water, an open graded stone reservoir under the paving with open joints above it holds runoff and lets it away slowly. It is a real option here and it is quoted as a build up, not as a jointing choice.

Drainage that goes somewhere. Where a soakaway will not work the answer is a positive outfall: an ACO channel across the low side or the threshold, falls carrying runoff into it, and a gully into a drain that leads away. The water has to stay on your own land.

Falls and the damp course. A steady fall away from the house across the whole surface, and a finished level at least two courses below the damp proof course. On a low threshold that means a recessed channel across the doorway rather than building the paving up.

Porcelain, sandstone, limestone and granite. Calibrated porcelain absorbs almost nothing, comes slip rated and stays clean in a shaded damp garden. Riven sandstone and limestone suit older cottages better, and granite is dense and hard wearing for steps. Riven stone is not calibrated, so each piece is bedded to its own thickness.

Full bed, never dabs. A full wet mortar bed under every slab with a slurry primer on the back of porcelain. Dabbed slabs are hollow underneath, and on wet ground the void fills with water and the flag lifts in a frost.

Edges, steps and retaining. Haunched edging or a kerb to hold the outer course, a retaining edge with a coping where the ground is held back, and step treads on a full bed with an overhang so water drips clear.

Jointing and repairs. Resin grout brushed into damp joints, or pointing in mortar on riven stone. We also relay sunk and rocking flags, cut out cracked ones and deal with staining, efflorescence and a green slippery surface.

How it runs

From your call to a written price

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides.

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: excavation and muck away, the sub base, the falls and where water goes, edgings and steps, the slabs themselves, and jointing on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.

Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.

Planning here goes to the New Forest National Park Authority rather than the district council, and the whole area lies in the Western Escarpment conservation area, where external appearance is controlled and trees are protected. There are twenty one listed entries in the area. The Park sets out what its heritage designations cover. Paving a garden at ground level is normally permitted development even so, while a raised terrace, a boundary wall or a new connection to a drain brings building control and the Park into it.

Cost

What decides the price of a patio

No rate per square metre, because the slabs are the part you choose and the smallest part of the price.

Getting to it. A cottage on a lane with a gate a barrow fits through, a smallholding with a yard a lorry can reach and a house set back behind a paddock are three different jobs before a slab is priced. Everything comes in and goes out through the garden, often through a side gate or the house. A patio you can barrow to directly is a different job from one where every slab is carried. The work at height rules still apply to the dig and the machinery.

What is coming out before anything goes down. An old concrete slab, a raised bed, tree roots or made ground all have to be dug out and taken away, and that is priced by the load rather than by the metre. The dig is where a patio quote is won or lost.

Falls, levels and the damp course. A patio has to fall away from the house and finish at least two courses below the damp proof course, and getting that right often means steps, a retaining edge or a drainage channel. Laying a new patio up against a wall at the wrong level is the single most expensive mistake on this kind of job.

Comparing quotes? Ask how deep the dig goes and what sub base is specified, whether the slabs are laid on a full wet bed or on dabs, what the falls are and where the water goes, whether edgings and steps are included, and what the jointing compound is. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.

If it has become a hazard

A patio that has lifted, sunk or turned slippery

Ring rather than use the form. A slab that has lifted at one corner or a step that has dropped is a trip, and a north facing patio in winter can be genuinely dangerous. We can usually lift and re-lay the worst of it quickly, then look properly at whether the base under the rest has gone. Once water is standing against the house rather than running away from it, ring while it is still wet, because a photograph of where the puddle sits tells us more than a dry survey does. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.

Call now: 07435 839745

The one local thing

Surface water, and why the soakaway is the first question

The flood maps put this area outside the river flood zones, but they rate the surface water risk here as high, and Huckles Brook runs a little over half a kilometre away. You can check what applies to an address in a couple of minutes. What that classification means on the ground is simple: after heavy rain the water has nowhere quick to go.

A patio makes that worse if nobody thinks about it. Turn a stretch of lawn into a sealed surface and the rain that used to soak in has to run somewhere. On saturated ground a soakaway at the bottom of the garden fills and stays full, and then the water backs up under the paving and comes through the joints.

So we test before we design. If the trial pit drains, a permeable build up over a stone reservoir is usually the answer, holding water under the patio and letting it away slowly. If it does not, the surface gets a positive outfall: channels, falls and a gully into a drain that leads somewhere real. Either way it goes on the quote as its own item.

Who you are dealing with

A local firm you can check

We cover the village, Frogham, Godshill and the lanes up onto the escarpment, broadly SP6, under the New Forest National Park Authority. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.

Questions

Hyde questions we get asked

Will a new patio make the wet patch in my garden worse?

It can, and it is a fair question here. Sealing an area sends the rain that used to soak in somewhere else. That is why we test the ground first and either build a permeable reservoir under the paving or give the surface an outfall.

How do you know whether a soakaway will work?

By digging a pit and filling it with water. If it empties at a reasonable rate a soakaway is viable and we size it from that. If it sits full, no amount of digging will help and the water needs somewhere else to go.

What is a permeable patio and does it look different?

It looks much the same from a chair. The difference is underneath: an open graded stone layer that stores water, with joints above it that let rain through instead of shedding it. It is quoted as a build up rather than as a type of slab.

Why does water come up through the joints after heavy rain?

Because it has nowhere else to go. Either the ground under the base is saturated and the water is backing up, or a soakaway has filled. Rejointing the surface will not fix that. The drainage under it has to be sorted first.

Can you connect the patio drainage into an existing drain?

Sometimes, and it depends what the drain is and where it goes. Surface water and foul drainage are not the same system and must not be mixed. We trace it before anything is connected, and it is on the quote as its own item.

Free quote

Get the ground tested before the patio is designed

Thomas comes out, digs a trial pit, takes levels across the garden and prices the dig, the base, the drainage, the falls and the jointing in writing. The visit and the quote are free.