Fascia, soffit and guttering replacement in Hyde

Boards, bargeboards and gutter runs renewed, downpipes taken to somewhere that can actually take the water, and the timber behind it all checked first.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

Last updated

Fascia, soffit and guttering replacement in Hyde is done because the timber behind the boards has gone soft, not because the plastic in front has gone grey. There is a second question worth asking at the same time, which is where every downpipe on the house currently ends up.

The eaves in Hyde tend to go at the gutter, the soffit or the bargeboard. A gutter that has dropped at one end and now stands away from the wall. A soffit gone dark and spongy under a joint that has dripped for years. Or a deep bargeboard on a gable that has cupped and opened at the joints. If one of those has let go and a gutter is swinging free, or water is pouring down the wall by the door, ring 07435 839745.

We come out to Hyde, get a ladder on the eaves and push a screwdriver into the fascia beside a bracket. Sound timber stops it. Soft timber lets it straight in, and once it does the board is finished and so is whatever the brackets were screwed into. The visit and the written itemised quote are both free.

The work

Cottage eaves, long verges and where the pipes finish

A finished tiled roof with a new white fascia and gutter run along the eaves (illustrative photo for fascias and guttering in Hyde)
New boards, not cappingThe old fascia comes off, so whatever is soft behind it gets found. Illustrative photo.

Boards, and how they fail. Fascia, soffit, bargeboard and capping come off as one set when it is a renewal. Paint blown and flaking off a timber board is not a decorating problem, it means water is behind the film and the timber stays wet.

Green or black staining along the bottom edge says the run above has been going down the face of the board for years. A gutter pulled away from the wall, or one sagging between brackets, has lost its fixings into soft wood.

The run. Gutter lengths, the unions between them, brackets, the outlet, a hopper head, the downpipe and the shoe. Faults sit in those parts, hardly ever in the length of gutter itself. Down comes the old run. Brackets go back at the spacing the profile was designed around, each union keeps the gap it needs to expand, and the fall is pulled off a string line. A gutter hung dead level looks fine from the garden and holds water all year, and a leaking joint in a cold snap does the rest.

Materials and profile. Painted timber is still right on the older Hyde cottages, where the moulded fascia and the deep bargeboard are part of how the building looks, and it wants the end grain sealed and primer on all four faces. Cast iron rusts from the inside, because the back of a run is the one face no brush reaches, and a sound length is worth painting internally rather than swapping. uPVC does not rot but a thin board flexes between rafters. Seamless aluminium is rolled on site and hung in one piece. Half round is the ordinary domestic gutter, ogee holds more and sits flat to the fascia, square is the modern version, and a long steep slope wants deepflow or a second outlet.

Under the board. The eaves opens up as soon as the fascia is down. Rafter feet, wall plate, then the tilt fillet propping the bottom course of tiles at the angle that sheds properly, and the underlay, which is supposed to be carried on a felt support tray and drip into the run. BS 5534 covers that detail, and it is the one most often left out when a roofline is done as a facelift. Capping over hard, dry, painted timber is sensible work. Over a board you can push a screwdriver into, it is a lid.

Air in, water away. Air enters a cold roof at the eaves and leaves at the ridge, and the soffit is the intake, so vent discs or a strip vent go back in, with an over fascia vent where a boxed eaves gives nothing to cut into. Keep the air gap open above the insulation or you get condensation on the underside of the felt by January and mould spreading over rafters that were sound. What is expected sits in Approved Document F. Then the water: every downpipe has to end somewhere that will genuinely take it, and Approved Document H governs where rainwater may go. Birds get in behind a soffit wherever a joint has opened and wasps go in higher up, and a season of moss and debris off the tiles is what packs an outlet.

How it runs

New fascias, soffits and gutters, from visit to finish

A completed hipped roof with the eaves, fascia and gutter run finished (one of our own jobs, shown for fascias and guttering in Hyde)
Every hip, every runA hipped roof is more eaves per house, and more to hang straight. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas walks the outside of the house with you and checks each run, pushing a blade into any fascia where the paint has lifted. His written quote splits into access, how long each run is, taking off the old boards and gutter, the new fascia, soffit and any bargeboard, gutters with their outlets and downpipes, and disposal.

Thomas is your one contact while it is stripped and refitted. Low eaves at the back of a Hyde cottage may only need a tower, while trees close to a taller wall mean the scaffold is set out around them. Each gutter length is hung as its board goes up, so the house is never without drainage overnight. Offcuts and old timber leave in our van, and the ground is cleared each evening. Where a rafter foot or the wall plate has rotted behind a board, you are shown it and given a price before new timber goes in.

Like for like boards and rainwater goods are repair. That means no planning application and no building control, a line drawn by regulation 12 of the Building Regulations. The National Park Authority deals with planning. If the colour or material is changing, first find out from the Authority if your house falls in the Western Escarpment conservation area; the Park Authority sets out what that covers. On a listed building the gutters and hoppers count as fabric, and consent is given under section 7 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990.

Cost

Trees, lanes and long runs on a roofline quote

A roof part way through re-tiling, with the eaves course and the gutter visible (one of our own jobs, shown for fascias and guttering in Hyde)
The bottom courseThe tiles have to drip into the gutter rather than behind it. Photo from one of our own jobs.

We price the roofline one run at a time, because fascia over a bay takes longer than the same length on a plain gable.

Height and obstacles. Low eaves on a Hyde cottage, a house set back from the lane among trees, and an outbuilding with one long unbroken run each need their own way up. Short, low runs are done off a tower, and a gable of two storeys gets a scaffold. A conservatory or bay under the run means building the platform around it. Because of the work at height rules, the platform is a separate line.

Behind the fascia. A rotten board tells you something is wrong; it does not tell you whether the rafter feet and wall plate behind it are still sound. That only shows once the board is off. Plastic capping over the top hides it, so we remove old boards rather than cover them.

Leaves. With branches over a Hyde roof, gutter size, where the outlets go and whether leaf guards are worth fitting all matter. Every outlet, hopper and downpipe is a separate item, and so is hanging the gutter to a fall so it drains.

Cast iron and timber. On an older or listed building these cost more than plastic and take longer to fit.

Before choosing a quote, find out whether the old boards are removed, what is allowed if rafter feet turn out rotten, whether the price covers gutters, outlets and downpipes, and whether scaffold is included.

If a section has come away

A gutter hanging off after a storm

If a length of gutter has come off its brackets, a downpipe has cracked through or a fascia is soft enough to push a finger into, call us; the form is too slow for this. Every downpour after that pours down the wall and soaks the brickwork.

The surface water risk in Hyde is rated high, so water dumped at the base of a wall struggles to drain. Keep people and cars away from anything hanging loose. On the first visit the loose length is propped or taken down and the water is sent back into a downpipe. The run is priced once the full extent of the rot is known. Our booked work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. If you miss us, we ring back as soon as we are free.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Around here, ask where each downpipe actually finishes

The ground around Hyde already takes a lot of surface water, and Huckles Brook runs close by, so what your roof does with its rainwater matters more than it would on a town street. A roof this size throws a serious volume off in a single storm, and a downpipe that simply ends in a shoe over a border is putting all of it against the base of the wall.

So when we quote a roofline in Hyde we look at the bottom of every pipe as well as the top. A gully with a grating or a back inlet is the usual answer. Where there is no drain to take it, a soakaway has to sit far enough from the building and in ground that will actually accept water, which is not a given on low lying land near a watercourse. If you are unsure how your own address sits, the government's flood map will tell you. Getting this right at the same time as the boards costs very little extra, because the pipe is already off the wall.

Who you are dealing with

Roofline work from a company on the public register

We are based in Boscombe, 12.7 miles from Hyde, and cover the village, Frogham, Godshill, Ogdens, Fordingbridge and Sandleheath, broadly SP6, inside the New Forest National Park. Planning is the National Park Authority. Your contract is with Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Hyde, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

The firm is Thomas Hannen's, and he walks the roofline and prices it in person. One verified customer has scored us 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. We do not charge for the visit or for the itemised written quote.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Hyde?

Most repairs in Hyde need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Hyde, from council and national records.
Question In Hyde
Who decides New Forest National Park Authority is the planning authority for Hyde. New Forest National Park Authority's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area Yes: Western Escarpment Conservation Area. Check whether your street is inside the boundary before changing anything visible.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Hyde. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape Inside the New Forest National Park, where design is looked at more closely and permitted development rights are narrower.

Questions

Questions about fascias and guttering in Hyde

Is the National Park really my planning authority?

For Hyde, yes. Inside the National Park boundary the Park Authority handles planning, not the district council, and this stretch also sits in the Western Escarpment conservation area, so appearance from a public road is controlled.

Can I swap a cast iron gutter for plastic?

Round the back, usually: on an elevation seen from the road in a conservation area it is a change of appearance instead of a repair, so it needs checking before anything is ordered. We put the profile and material on the quote so you have something to show.

Where should a downpipe discharge?

Into a gully with a grating or a back inlet, or into a soakaway set far enough from the house to work. A shoe spitting onto a border tight to the wall keeps that wall wet all winter, and on Hyde ground that already holds water it is worse.

How long will the job take?

Days rather than weeks once the platform is up. A plain eaves each side goes quickly, but add a bay, a porch and a gable verge and the same length takes twice as long, because every corner is a stop end or an angle. A soft rafter foot gets scarfed, photographed and priced on the spot.

Nearby, and next door

Fascias, soffits and guttering near Hyde

Nearby places we also cover for fascias, soffits and guttering, with straight-line distances from Hyde, and the other trades we offer in Hyde itself.

Fascias, soffits and guttering guides

Gutter overflows in heavy rain but not light rain

Everything we do in Ringwood Fascias, soffits and guttering, all areas Every area we cover

Free quote

Get the boards and the pipework looked at together

Thomas Hannen prices every job himself and checks the bottom of every downpipe as well as the top. Free visit, free written itemised quote.