Fascias, soffits and guttering in Lover
Cast iron repaired where it is sound, rotten boards replaced, and gutters re-hung to a proper fall. Free site visit and a written itemised price.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
On an older cottage, replacing the whole roofline in plastic is rarely the right answer. Sound cast iron and sound timber are worth repairing. What has to come off is whatever has actually rotted, and the fixings and fall behind it.
Three calls come up again and again. A cast iron gutter joint that has started to weep and is marking the wall below it. A softwood fascia that has gone spongy at one end so the brackets no longer hold. And a run that overflows in every heavy shower even though somebody clears it out each autumn.
Lover sits on the edge of the Forest, with a lot of older property and a lot of tree cover close to the eaves. Timber in shade stays damp and gives up years before the same board on an open elevation. We come out, survey each run from a ladder or a tower, photograph what is wrong, and put a written itemised price in front of you.
The work
Old timber, iron gutters, and the plastic that came later

Four materials, four different answers. On an older cottage the fascia is softwood and the gutter is cast iron. On the post-war houses it is softwood and half round plastic. On the newest it is uPVC throughout. Cast iron that is still sound is worth rubbing down, re-bedding the joints and repainting rather than removing, because it outlives anything that would replace it. Timber boards get primed on all four faces before they go up and last well if the water is kept off them. uPVC never needs painting and takes a bracket screw far better than tired softwood. Aluminium is worth a price on a long straight eaves because it can be formed in one length with no unions at all.
Why the boards come off. Fascia, soffit, bargeboard and gutter are stripped rather than clad, because until they are down nobody can see the rafter feet, the wall plate or the bottom course of tiles. On older roofs those are the parts that decide the job. Rot starts at the top edge of the fascia where the felt has torn back over the eaves, so a felt support tray goes in as standard, with a tilt fillet lifting the bottom course to drip into the gutter rather than behind it. A rafter foot that has gone soft gets a sound end spliced on rather than being packed and hoped for. Anything lifted at the eaves or verge is refixed the way BS 5534 expects. Where the timber is genuinely sound, dry and firm, capping the face and lining the soffit is a fair job at a lower price, and we will tell you when that is what you have.
Reading the run. A board soft enough to take a screwdriver, paint peeling and blown in patches, a length that has dropped between brackets, a gutter pulled away from the wall, a leaking joint at a union, or an overflow in a downpour when the run is clear. That last one is fall or profile rather than blockage. Half round copes with an ordinary roof, but a long steep slope in driving rain sheds more than it will carry, and ogee, square or deepflow hold more before the water goes over the back of the gutter and down the wall.
Putting it back. New brackets at proper centres, the run falling to the outlet, unions resealed and downpipes clipped straight with a shoe so the water discharges into a gully instead of at the footings. Level looks tidy and stands full all year, which is what perishes seals and keeps timber wet from behind. Hopper heads are checked, staining down a wall is traced to whichever pipe caused it, and the eaves are put right while everything is open: soffit vents in the new boards, or an over fascia vent where the soffit is too narrow, and the air gap over the loft insulation left clear so you get a dry roof space rather than condensation. Approved Document F sets the ventilation figures. Open corners are closed so birds and wasps cannot nest behind a soffit, and any outlet blocked with moss and debris off the tiles gets pointed out.
How it runs
From your call to a written price

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: access, the length of each run, stripping the old boards and gutter, the fascia, soffit and any bargeboard, the gutter, outlets and downpipes, and disposal on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.
Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.
Renewing a roofline like for like is repair and maintenance, so there is no planning application and nothing for building control. The planning authority for this area is the New Forest National Park Authority rather than the district council, which catches people out, and where a building is listed the boards and rainwater goods form part of it. the National Park Authority's interactive property map will tell you what applies to your address.
Cost
What decides the price of a roofline

No rate per square metre, because a metre of fascia over a bay is not the same metre as one on a straight gable.
Getting to it. A forest edge cottage with low eaves over a hedge, a Victorian pair with one long straight gable, and a modern detached house with a bay window under the front run are three different jobs before a board comes off. A bungalow run comes off a tower, a two or three storey gable wants a scaffold, and a run over a conservatory or a bay window means building the platform around it. The work at height rules are why the access is a priced line rather than something absorbed into a rate.
What is behind the boards. Rotten fascia is a symptom. The question is whether the rafter feet and the wall plate behind it are still sound, and nobody knows until the old board comes off. Capping over with plastic hides that instead of fixing it, which is why we take the old boards off rather than clad them.
The run, not the metre. A straight gable is quick. Bay windows, a conservatory in the way, a corner return, a run that has to be worked around a satellite dish or a service cable, and every outlet, hopper and downpipe are priced one at a time. So is putting the fall back: a gutter hung level looks fine and holds water all year.
Comparing quotes? Ask whether the old boards are coming off or being capped over, what happens if the rafter feet or the wall plate turn out to be rotten, whether the gutter, outlets and downpipes are all being renewed or only the fascia, and whether the scaffold is in the price. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.
If a section has come away
A gutter hanging off, or a fascia gone through
Ring rather than use the form. A length of gutter pulled off its brackets, a downpipe snapped at the bend or a fascia soft enough to put your hand through goes to the front of the queue, because the next heavy rain runs straight down the wall and into the brickwork. The first visit is about getting it supported and discharging somewhere sensible, and we price the run properly once we can see how far the rot goes. Say if it is cast iron, because a dropped iron run is heavy and we bring different gear for it. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.
Worth knowing
An old roof does not want a modern answer
A good share of the housing around Lover and Redlynch predates the First World War, and an old roof behaves differently at the eaves. The rafters are often not machine cut and not all the same depth, so a new fascia has to be packed and lined to a straight edge rather than simply screwed on. The wall plate sits on a solid wall that has to breathe, and where a cottage has damp at eaves level the cause is as often a leaking gutter joint above it as anything in the wall itself.
The temptation on a house like that is to strip everything and put white plastic up, because it is quick and it is cheap and it never wants painting. On a period cottage it is usually the wrong call, and not only on looks. Cast iron that has been kept painted has decades left in it, and the moulded timber profiles under it are part of what the building looks like. Our advice is to repair what is sound, replace only what has actually gone, keep the profile when you do, and put the money you save into fixing whatever let the water in behind the boards in the first place. If plastic is the right answer for a rear elevation, we will say that too.
Who you are dealing with
A local firm you can check
We cover Lover, Redlynch, Morgan's Vale, Nomansland and Landford, broadly SP5, where the New Forest National Park Authority is the planning authority. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.
Questions
Lover questions we get asked
Can cast iron gutters be repaired rather than replaced?
Very often. If the run is sound, the joints get raked out, re-bedded and bolted, the iron is rubbed down and repainted and the brackets checked. It is not a cheap job, but it lasts longer than the plastic that would replace it.
Is uPVC ever the right answer on an old cottage?
On a rear elevation, sometimes. At the front it changes how the building reads, and on a listed building it is not a decision you can make on your own. We will price both and be straight about which we would choose.
What happens if the rafter feet are rotten?
We splice a sound new end onto each affected rafter and fix the fascia to solid timber. It is photographed and priced before we carry on, so it never lands on the invoice as a surprise.
How long does a cottage take?
A day or two for a straightforward run once access is up. Uneven old rafters need lining and packing, which adds time, and any carpentry to the rafter feet adds more.
Will fitting new soffits stop the loft getting damp?
It will if the eaves ventilation is put right at the same time. Vented soffits or an over fascia vent, with the air gap over the insulation kept clear, is what stops condensation forming up there.
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Fascias, soffits and guttering near Lover
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Get a price for your Lover roofline
Free site visit and a written itemised quote, with the boards, the gutter, the downpipes and the access all priced separately.
