Patios in Boldre, dug down to something firm

On an eighties estate the ground under the lawn is usually site spoil rather than natural soil, and that is what decides how deep a patio has to be dug.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

In a garden that came with a house built in the eighties, the ground under the lawn is rarely natural. It is usually subsoil and site spoil pushed back over the plot at the end of the build, with a skim of topsoil over the top, and it will carry grass happily while giving a patio base nothing to sit on.

That is behind most of what we get called to on these estates. A terrace settled unevenly a few years after it was laid. Slabs rocking where a soft pocket has consolidated. And somebody told the base was fine because the ground looked solid on the day.

So we dig before we quote. A trial hole through the lawn shows how deep the disturbed material goes. Then it goes in writing: the dig, the muck away, the sub base, the falls, the drainage, the edgings, the paving and the jointing on their own lines. The site visit and the itemised quote are free.

The work

Digging out made ground, and building a base that stays put

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall.

Finding the bottom of the made ground. A trial hole is the only honest way. Site spoil looks like garden soil until you put a foot on it in the wet. We excavate until the formation stops moving, which on some plots is deeper than a standard build up allows for.

The dig and the muck away. Turf, topsoil, buried rubble, old concrete, pipe offcuts and roots all come out. There is more spoil than people expect, and it leaves in a grab lorry or a skip rather than being spread over the rest of the garden.

The sub base. MOT type 1 in compacted layers with a geotextile between the subgrade and the stone. On made ground that membrane is not optional: without it the soft material below works up into the stone, the sub base loses its grading and the surface follows it down.

Full bed, never dabs. Every slab on a full wet mortar bed with a slurry primer on the back of porcelain. Not five dabs, not a sand screed. Where the ground below has any give in it, a dabbed slab finds it first and cracks across the middle.

Porcelain paving. Calibrated to one thickness, so the bed stays even and the joints line up. Almost no absorption and slip rated finishes available, which suits the shaded corner of a small estate garden where stone would go green.

Sandstone, limestone and granite. Riven sandstone gives warmth against brick and takes a sealer. Limestone and travertine are flatter and more even in tone. Granite is dense and makes the best step tread. None is calibrated, so each piece is bedded to its own thickness.

Falls, levels and the damp course. A fall away from the house across the whole surface, and a finished level at least two courses below the damp proof course. Where the back door threshold is low we drop the patio and put in a shallow step rather than build the level up.

Drainage. An ACO channel across a low threshold into a gully with a positive outfall, or a permeable build up over a stone reservoir where the ground will take water. Runoff off a new surface stays on your own ground.

Edges, steps and retaining. A haunched edging or kerb holds the outer course, a retaining edge with a coping holds a border or a bank, and step treads go on a full bed with an overhang so water drips clear of the riser.

Jointing and repairs. A resin grout brushed into damp joints, or pointing in mortar on riven stone. We also lift and relay sunk bays and rocking flags, cut out cracked ones, repoint washed out joints and deal with staining, efflorescence and a slippery green surface.

How it runs

From your call to a written price

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides.

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: excavation and muck away, the sub base, the falls and where water goes, edgings and steps, the slabs themselves, and jointing on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.

Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.

Planning here goes to the New Forest National Park Authority rather than the district council, so design is looked at more closely inside the Park than outside it, and trees are protected. There is no conservation area covering the parish and eleven listed entries in the area. The Park publishes an interactive property map so you can see what applies to an address. Paving a garden at ground level is normally permitted development even so, while a raised terrace, a boundary wall above the permitted height or a new drainage connection is not.

Cost

What decides the price of a patio

No rate per square metre, because the slabs are the part you choose and the smallest part of the price.

Getting to it. A detached house with a gate wide enough for a machine, a mid terrace with no side access and a bungalow on a corner plot are three different jobs before a slab is ordered. Everything comes in and goes out through the garden, often through a side gate or the house. A patio you can barrow to directly is a different job from one where every slab is carried. The work at height rules still apply to the dig and the machinery.

What is coming out before anything goes down. An old concrete slab, a raised bed, tree roots or made ground all have to be dug out and taken away, and that is priced by the load rather than by the metre. The dig is where a patio quote is won or lost.

Falls, levels and the damp course. A patio has to fall away from the house and finish at least two courses below the damp proof course, and getting that right often means steps, a retaining edge or a drainage channel. Laying a new patio up against a wall at the wrong level is the single most expensive mistake on this kind of job.

Comparing quotes? Ask how deep the dig goes and what sub base is specified, whether the slabs are laid on a full wet bed or on dabs, what the falls are and where the water goes, whether edgings and steps are included, and what the jointing compound is. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.

If it has become a hazard

A patio that has lifted, sunk or turned slippery

Ring rather than use the form. A slab that has lifted at one corner or a step that has dropped is a trip, and a north facing patio in winter can be genuinely dangerous. We can usually lift and re-lay the worst of it quickly, then look properly at whether the base under the rest has gone. A bay that has dropped away from the house and now sheds water back towards it is worth ringing about before the winter rather than after it. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.

Call now: 07435 839745

The one local thing

Eighties gardens, and what is under the lawn

More than four in ten of the homes here went up between the early eighties and the late two thousands, and that shapes the ground work more than the architecture does. When an estate is built, the subsoil out of the foundations and the drainage runs has to go somewhere, and it usually goes back over the plots at the end under a thin layer of topsoil.

Grass does not care. It roots in the top few inches and looks healthy. A patio does care, because that material was never compacted in layers, it holds water and it consolidates for years afterwards. Lay a base straight onto it and the terrace settles unevenly, usually worst where a service trench used to run.

So the dig is the honest part of the quote. We go through the made ground to something firm, put a membrane down so the two layers cannot mix, and build the sub base in compacted lifts. More spoil leaves than on a shallow job, and that is why the patio is still level five winters later.

Who you are dealing with

A local firm you can check

We cover the parish, Pilley, Sway and the lanes down towards the river, broadly SO41, under the New Forest National Park Authority. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.

Questions

Boldre questions we get asked

How do I know if my garden is made ground?

Dig a hole. Made ground is a mixed material with rubble, brick fragments or pipe offcuts in it, and it changes colour and texture where the natural soil starts. If a spade goes in easily for two feet and then hits something different, you have your answer.

Why did my patio settle unevenly rather than all over?

Because the ground below it is not consistent. A filled service trench or a soft pocket consolidates at a different rate to the rest, so the surface dips where the fill is deepest. Relaying the slabs without dealing with that just repeats it.

Can you not just compact the existing ground instead of digging it out?

Not reliably. Site spoil has organic material and voids in it, and a plate on the surface only densifies the top few inches. Anything below that carries on consolidating. Taking it out and replacing it with graded stone is the only way to know.

Does more digging mean a much bigger job?

It means more spoil leaving and more stone coming in, and both show on the quote as their own lines. It does not usually add much time on site. What it adds is the difference between a base that holds and one that moves.

What is the membrane under the stone actually for?

It separates the sub base from the ground below it. Without it, soft wet material squeezes up into the stone over time and the stone sinks into the ground. The two stop being separate layers and the surface loses its level.

Free quote

Find out how deep the made ground goes

Thomas comes out, digs a trial hole through the lawn and prices the dig, the muck away, the base, the falls and the jointing in writing. The visit and the quote are free.