Loft insulation in Ridge
Loft floors, sealed hatches, raised boarding and rafter level work, with the ventilation put right in the same visit rather than left for later.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
Depth is the easy part of a loft. On low, damp ground the question that matters first is whether the roof space can dry itself out, because insulating one that cannot only makes it wetter.
Most calls out here start in one of three ways. A bedroom that will not hold its heat overnight. A loft opened after several years, where the wool is thin, uneven and shoved into the eaves. Or something that looks like a leak on a ceiling and turns out to be water that condensed inside the roof rather than water that came through it.
We get into the roof and look at the whole of it. Depth measured in several places rather than at the hatch, a check that the eaves are open on both sides rather than only one, the underside of the covering read for damp staining, and a look at what has been done around the lights, cables and any tank. Photographs of what we find, the site visit and the itemised written quote are both free.
The work
What goes down, and what has to stay clear

Reading what is there. Old material tells you a lot. It settles and compresses, goes patchy in the middle and missing at the edges, and takes on gaps where cables and pipework were pulled through. If the underside is grey and dry it has simply aged, and the new layer goes over it. If it is heavy, damp, black underneath or contaminated with droppings, it comes out, is bagged at the hatch and leaves with us, and the reason it is wet gets dealt with before anything replaces it.
What we lay. Mineral wool for most lofts, as glass wool rolls mostly, rockwool batts where the bay wants filling tight. Loose fill, blown or poured, where the joists are at awkward centres or the space is too tight to work a roll into. Sheep wool if you would rather. Where headroom has run out, PIR rigid board cut tight and taped at the joints, and a multi-foil quilt for the shallowest last stretch.
Two layers, and the second one crossways. One layer laid flush between the joists is where most lofts stop, and it leaves every timber conducting heat straight through the ceiling. The first layer goes between the joists and the second is cross laid over the joists, turned across the run of the first. Around 270mm all in is what a Part L U value comes to once it is laid rather than calculated, and there should be no joist tops showing when it is finished.
The air path, which comes first here. Insulation is taken to the wall plate and left and the eaves stay open, vent trays are fitted so the air gap cannot be choked so cross ventilation still gets from one eaves to the other. Block them and the vapour rising out of the house condenses on the cold underside of the covering instead. Insulating moves the dew point, interstitial condensation forms inside the layer where nobody can see it, and the result is wet material and black mould running along the rafters. Approved Document F carries the ventilation standard, A breathable membrane asks for a different detail and nothing more, and where the eaves cannot be opened a ridge vent often can be.
Services, hatch and rafter level. Covers rated for the purpose go over the recessed lights, and cables are lifted out and clipped over the layer, because wiring buried in insulation runs hot. A cold water tank and its pipework sit in colder air once the ceiling is done and want lagging. The hatch is insulated where nobody sees it and sealed round the edge, since an unsealed hatch pumps warm damp air straight up. Where there is no loft floor, a room in roof puts the insulation at rafter level in a warm roof, sloping ceiling and dormer cheeks carried through as one layer.
How it runs
From your call to a written price

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: the survey, clearing and bagging whatever is up there now, the material and its depth, keeping the eaves clear, the hatch and any pipework, and disposal on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.
Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.
Insulating a loft floor is inside work, so it is not development and no permitted development limit applies, which Planning Portal guidance on insulation sets out. Dorset Council is the planning authority here and there is no conservation area over Ridge, though where a building is listed, listed building consent reaches inside as well. Building control arrives where a conversion happens, or where more than half a roof is replaced, under regulation 23, and the VAT relief on energy saving materials sits in HMRC VAT Notice 708/6.
Cost
What decides the price of a loft

No rate per square metre, because the floor area is the easy part and the awkward edges are where the time goes.
Getting to it. A cottage with a trapdoor in a back bedroom, a bungalow with a hatch on the landing, and a house where the loft is already half boarded and full are three different mornings before material is laid, and each begins with work at height. A hatch on a landing you can stand a ladder under is one job. A hatch over a stairwell, a crawl space you can only move through on your knees, or a loft full of boarding that has to come up and go back, is time before any material is laid.
What is up there now, and what it is sitting on. Old material that has to come out, be bagged and taken away is a cost before anything new goes down, and so is a loft full of boxes that has to be emptied and put back. Joists at 400 centres with a flat run across them is a different afternoon from a trussed roof full of bracing.
Ventilation, and the edges nobody reaches. Insulation stops at the wall plate and the eaves have to stay clear, or you trade a warm bedroom for a wet roof. Getting depth right into the corners and around the hatch, boxing over downlighters and lagging anything that now sits in the cold, is most of the labour. Approved Document L sets what the work is expected to reach.
Comparing quotes? Ask what depth is actually being laid and in how many layers, whether the old material is coming out or being covered over, whether the eaves are being kept clear, what happens to anything you store up there, and whether the hatch and the pipework are included. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.
If the loft is wet
Water running off the felt, or mould on the underside

Ring rather than use the form. Droplets on the underside of the felt, black mould spreading across the roof timbers, or insulation that is visibly damp are all telling you the same thing: warm wet air is getting into a space that cannot breathe. That does not wait, because it is the timbers that pay for it. We look before anything is added, because putting more insulation into a loft that cannot ventilate makes it worse. Ridge is a short run round the harbour for us, so a loft that is visibly wet gets looked at quickly. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.
Worth knowing
On low ground, a loft has to be able to dry out
Sitting this low, with water on three sides and heath beyond it, the air here carries more moisture for more of the year than it does a few miles inland. That does nothing to a loft on its own. What it does is shorten the margin. A roof space that only just ventilates will cope in a dry winter and will not cope in a wet one, and the first you know about it is droplets running off the underside of the felt onto insulation that then stays damp for months.
So on these houses the ventilation is not a detail at the end of the quote, it is the first item on it. We check that the eaves are genuinely open on both sides rather than on one, fit vent trays so the new depth cannot choke them, and seal the routes warm damp air uses to get up there in the first place: the hatch, the light fittings, the pipe and cable holes and the top of the stud walls. Only then does the depth go down. Where a roof simply cannot breathe at the eaves, a ridge vent is usually the honest answer, and we would rather price that than lay a thick layer over a problem.
Who you are dealing with
A local firm you can check
We cover Ridge, Stoborough, Wareham, Sandford, Arne and Holton Heath, and the BH20 addresses around them, with Dorset Council responsible for planning and building control. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.
Questions
Ridge questions we get asked
How long does it take?
A day for most lofts. Laying on top of a sound layer in an empty loft is half a day, and the time is spent at the perimeter, the hatch and the services. Clearing out wet material and dealing with why it was wet adds most of another day.
Our loft already has damp patches. Can you still insulate it?
Not until the reason is dealt with. Adding depth to a roof space that cannot dry itself out makes it colder above the insulation and worse rather than better. The first visit settles whether it is ventilation, a genuine leak, or warm damp air getting up through the ceiling, and often it is the last of those three.
Can we board it for storage afterwards?
Yes, on loft legs, which hold a raised floor above the full thickness so nothing underneath is compressed. Boarding straight onto the joists squashes the layer down to the timber and you keep very little of the benefit, and in a damp roof it also stops you seeing what is going on.
Should we block the vents to stop the draught?
No, and it is the commonest mistake we undo. A cold roof is meant to be draughty, because that airflow is what carries moisture out of it. The draught worth stopping is the one coming up out of the house through the hatch, the downlighters and the pipe holes, and that is part of the same job.
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Get the loft and the ventilation looked at together
Free site visit in Ridge, free written itemised quote, and a straight answer about whether the roof can take the depth yet.
