Patios in Ridge

The hamlet sits low between the Frome and the harbour, and ground that soft decides how deep a patio has to be dug long before anyone looks at slabs.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

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Down at Ridge the base is the job. On low, soft ground a patio needs a deeper excavation, a geotextile between the ground and the stone, and somewhere for water to go that is not a soakaway, because the ground will not always take one.

In Ridge the trouble tends to show up as a dish, a wet terrace or a patio that failed early. Paving that has sunk in a dish where the ground gave way underneath. A terrace that sits wet for days after rain while the lawn beside it drains. Or a garden being redone where the last patio lasted about eight years and nobody knows why.

The answer is nearly always under the slabs rather than in them. We dig a trial hole at the edge, see how far down firm ground is, check whether water stands in the hole, and take a level off the damp proof course. Then the work goes into one written itemised quote, with the excavation, the muck away, the sub base, the edgings, the paving and the jointing on separate lines. The visit and the quote cost nothing.

The work

Building a patio on ground that moves

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Ridge)
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Digging until it is firm. On Ridge ground the depth is set by what we find, not by a rule of thumb. Topsoil, peaty made ground and anything soft comes out until there is a formation worth building on, and the spoil goes by skip or grab lorry, priced by the load. That is why a trial hole before quoting is worth more than a tape measure.

A geotextile between the two. Where soft ground meets clean stone, the stone works its way down into it over a few winters and the surface drops. A geotextile membrane across the formation keeps the sub base and the ground apart and is cheap next to the cost of lifting a patio again.

Sub base. Compacted hardcore, MOT type 1, laid and whacked in layers, usually thicker in Ridge than on a sandy plot up the hill. Then the paving goes on a full wet mortar bed with a slurry primer on the back of each slab. Not five dabs, and not a screeded sand bed. A void under a slab on wet ground is a puddle waiting under your feet.

Where the water actually goes. A soakaway needs ground that will take water, and near the river it often will not, whatever a percolation test costs to prove. So the design usually turns into a channel drain at the low end running to a gully and a positive outfall, with a permeable border only where the soil genuinely drains.

Falls and the damp proof course. The surface falls away from the house and finishes at least two courses below the DPC. On low ground the temptation is to build up to keep the paving out of the wet, and that is exactly how a damp course gets bridged. The right answer is to take the level down and drain it properly.

What goes on top. Porcelain is calibrated, absorbs nothing and carries a published slip rating, which counts where a surface stays damp. Sandstone, limestone, granite and travertine are uncalibrated and warmer looking, so each slab is bedded to its own thickness.

Edges, steps and jointing. A haunched kerb or a retaining course with a coping to stop the outer row spreading into soft ground, steps of an even rise, and joints brushed in with a two part compound rather than sand or a bagged grout, because loose sand washes out fast where water sits.

Repairs. Sunk, rocking and lifted slabs, a cracked step, algae and moss on a damp terrace, efflorescence and iron staining on newer stone.

How it runs

Building a patio in a Ridge back garden

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in Ridge)
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas looks at your Ridge garden, where it falls, where the damp proof course is on the house and how everything will get in and out. The written quote then separates the dig and muck away, the sub-base, the falls and drainage, the edgings and any steps, the paving itself, and the joints. Thomas answers for it while it is dug, laid and pointed.

Most of the material goes in and comes out through a Ridge garden, often by barrow through a side gate, so boards go down over lawns and paths first. The dig is not left open to the weather overnight if rain is due, and the garden is swept at the end of every day. Spoil and old slabs leave with us. If the dig finds an old concrete base, a buried drain or roots where the patio is going, you are shown it, on a photo with a price, before the layout changes.

Paving a garden at ground level is normally permitted development, with no application and no building control notice. Raised terraces and retaining or boundary walls above the usual heights are the exceptions, and the height rules set those out. Dorset Council is the authority, Ridge has no conservation area, and a terrace built against a listed building would need listed building consent.

Cost

What goes into the price of a patio on clay ground

The slabs are the part you choose, and usually the smallest part of the bill. There is no rate per square metre.

The dig. An old concrete slab, a raised bed, roots or rubble all come out first and are priced by the load. On clay, the dig often goes deeper so the sub-base sits on firm ground rather than on topsoil that will settle.

Clay that moves. The clay under Ridge gardens tightens and cracks when it dries out, then takes up water and lifts again. A patio on a thin base here will rock and crack. A full wet bed on a compacted sub-base, with a geotextile under it, holds up.

Falls and the damp course. The patio must fall away from the house and finish two courses below the damp proof course. On a flat site that can mean a channel drain along the wall, and on clay the water it collects has to go somewhere that is not the foundation. Approved Document H covers where.

Getting it in. A garden a small digger can reach is a different job from one where every slab and every bag of spoil is carried. Steps and edgings add hours.

Before you choose, ask how deep the dig is, whether the slabs go on a full bed or on dabs, and where the water is going.

If it has become a hazard

Slabs tipped, a step dropped or water pooling by the back door

Ring, and leave the form alone, if a slab has tipped up into a trip, a step has dropped, or rain now sits in a hollow against the back door. Put a bin or a chair over the loose area so nobody steps on it.

On this ground, water standing beside the house is also working its way towards the foundation. On that first visit we relay the slabs that have tipped or clear a blocked channel, then check whether the base under the rest has failed and price that separately. Ridge is on the far side of Wareham from us. Booked work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. For an urgent problem phone us, and if you cannot get through we ring you back as soon as possible.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

Low ground, and why the dig goes deeper here

Ridge lies on the flat between the Frome and the top of the harbour, on the lane down to the wharf. It is lovely ground to look at and awkward ground to build on. The water table sits close to the surface for much of the winter, and the top of the profile is often soft, dark and slow to drain.

What that changes is the part of the patio you never see. On firmer ground a standard depth of sub base does the job. In Ridge the excavation goes down until there is something worth compacting against, a membrane is laid so the stone cannot migrate into the soft material below, and the base is built thicker. Skipping any of that is why patios in low lying gardens dish in the middle after a few winters and why a step by the back door drops away from the threshold.

It also changes the drainage. A soakaway only works if the ground will accept the water, and beside the river it frequently will not, so the sensible design takes surface water to a channel and a positive outfall rather than into a hole in the garden. If a quote for a garden down here shows a soakaway without anyone having dug a hole to test the ground, ask how they know.

Who you are dealing with

Who you are dealing with for a patio in Ridge

Ridge, Stoborough, Arne parish and the lanes towards Wareham are all within reach of our base at 80a Wolverton Road, Boscombe, and Ridge itself is 11.9 miles away. Dorset Council is the authority for all of it.

The firm is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales with company number 15471719, and it is run by its owner, Thomas Hannen. He visits, checks your levels and prices the patio himself. A verified customer's score on Checkatrade is 10 out of 10. The visit and the itemised written quote are both free of charge. Soft ground by the river does the same to a front drive, and a driveway in Ridge needs the same deeper base and outfall. Before you book a visit in Ridge, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in Ridge?

Most repairs in Ridge need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in Ridge, from council and national records.
Question In Ridge
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for Ridge. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area None covers Ridge, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance.
Listed buildings Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Ridge. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape Inside the Dorset National Landscape (formerly AONB), so anything visible from outside gets more attention.

Questions

Questions about patios in Ridge

Why does my patio keep sinking in the middle?

Nearly always because the sub base has worked its way into soft ground below it, or it was never dug deep enough to reach firm material. Relaying the slabs on the same base buys a year or two. Rebuilding the base with a membrane under it is the actual repair.

Will a soakaway work in a garden this low?

Sometimes, often not. It depends whether the ground will accept water at the time of year when you need it to, which is a hole and a test, not an opinion. Where it will not, the surface water goes to a channel drain and a proper outfall instead.

How deep should the excavation be for a patio?

As deep as it takes to reach ground worth building on, which on this side of Wareham can be a good deal more than the usual figure. That is why we dig a trial hole before pricing rather than quoting a depth over the phone.

Is a membrane really necessary under the stone?

On soft ground, yes. Without one the clean stone and the wet ground gradually mix, the base loses its thickness and the surface follows it down. It costs very little at the time and saves the whole patio later.

Can you still lay a patio in winter?

We work all year, but not into a frost and not on a saturated formation, because neither the compaction nor the mortar bed will do what it should. In a wet spell we would sooner move a start date than build a base that is going to fail.

Free quote

Dig a hole before you price a patio

Thomas opens the ground at the edge, finds out how deep firm material sits and prices the base, the drainage and the paving in writing. Both are free.