Loft insulation in Ashley Heath
Loft top-ups, boarded storage over raised legs and rafter level work in Ashley Heath and BH24, measured on a free visit and priced in writing.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
Nearly every Ashley Heath loft we open has something in it already, so the job is a top-up rather than a fresh start. A second layer of mineral wool is laid across the joists, the depth is carried right out over the wall plate, and the eaves are left open so the roof can still breathe.
Three things bring people up the ladder here. A back bedroom in a bungalow that never warms up while the middle of the house is fine. Boards laid straight onto the joists years ago, with a thin layer of wool squashed flat underneath. Or a loft nobody has opened since the house was built.
All three start the same way. The free site visit means going in through the hatch and along to the edge, not shining a torch from the top of the ladder. We measure the depth in several places, because a loft that is fine over the landing is often bare over the outside walls, and we photograph the eaves, the hatch and the tank. Then you get a written itemised quote. If what is up there is dry and already at depth, we will say so.
The work
Up through the hatch, and what happens after that

Topping up what is there. The usual find is one layer of mineral wool between the joists, finished flush with the top of them. That was the standard once, and it leaves every joist acting as a cold bridge through the middle of the insulation. Sound material stays, gets straightened and pushed back into the gaps where it has settled, and a second layer of unbacked roll goes over the top, running across the joists rather than along them. Two layers, the second one crossing the first, is what gets you to about 270mm finished. When it is in you cannot see the timber any more.
Clearing first. Some of it has to come out. Material that is wet, patchy where somebody has walked through it or contaminated with droppings gets bagged and carried out rather than covered over, and so does the loose fill you still meet in older houses, which drifts into the eaves and blocks them.
Working in a trussed roof. Much of the housing here went up in the 1970s and early 1980s on trussed rafters, which is bracing to work around rather than a clear space you can move about in. Nothing is stood on the ceiling. We work off boards laid across the joists and do the far corners first, because the corner left until last is the one that ends up missing its depth.
The eaves, and why we stop short. Insulation runs out over the wall plate and then stops, with a clear air gap above it. Eaves vent trays hold that gap open so the roll cannot be pushed into it, and cross ventilation still works from one side of the loft to the other. Fill the eaves and you have a warm bedroom under a wet roof, with condensation running off the underside of the felt and black mould along the timbers by February. A breathable membrane is more forgiving than old bitumen felt, but the edge detail is the same either way.
Services, storage and sloping ceilings. Recessed lights get fire rated covers, and cable is lifted and clipped above the new layer instead of being buried, because wiring in insulation runs hot. A cold water tank and its pipework end up on the cold side, so pipes are lagged, the tank gets a jacket and a lid, and nothing is laid underneath it. The hatch gets an insulated board and a draught seal. If you use the loft, we build a raised floor on loft legs so the boarding sits above full depth, and set the loft ladder to suit. Where a chalet bungalow has a room in the roof it becomes rafter level work instead: rigid board between the rafters with the air gap open above, PIR under, taped so the vapour control is continuous.
How it runs
From your call to a written price

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: the survey, clearing and bagging whatever is up there now, the material and its depth, keeping the eaves clear, the hatch and any pipework, and disposal on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.
Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.
Insulating the loft you already have is not development and needs no application, which is what Planning Portal guidance on insulation says, so on an ordinary house it sits inside permitted development. Building control is the part that matters: renovate a thermal element and regulation 23 expects the whole of it brought up to current standard, with Approved Document L setting the U value that means. There is one listed entry near here and no conservation area over the housing, so nothing needs consent. Loft insulation is also an energy saving material, and HMRC VAT Notice 708/6 sets out how the VAT is treated.
Cost
What decides the price of a loft

No rate per square metre, because the floor area is the easy part and the awkward edges are where the time goes.
Getting to it. A bungalow with the hatch on a hallway ceiling, a chalet bungalow where the only access is a small opening on an upper landing, and a detached house with a boarded loft over the garage are three different mornings before a roll is opened. A hatch on a landing you can stand a ladder under is one job. A hatch over a stairwell, a crawl space you can only move through on your knees, or a loft full of boarding that has to come up and go back, is time before any material is laid.
What is up there now, and what it is sitting on. Old material that has to come out, be bagged and taken away is a cost before anything new goes down, and so is a loft full of boxes that has to be emptied and put back. Joists at 400 centres with a flat run across them is a different afternoon from a trussed roof full of bracing.
Ventilation, and the edges nobody reaches. Insulation stops at the wall plate and the eaves have to stay clear, or you trade a warm bedroom for a wet roof. Getting depth right into the corners and around the hatch, boxing over downlighters and lagging anything that now sits in the cold, is most of the labour. Approved Document L sets what the work is expected to reach.
Comparing quotes? Ask what depth is actually being laid and in how many layers, whether the old material is coming out or being covered over, whether the eaves are being kept clear, what happens to anything you store up there, and whether the hatch and the pipework are included. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.
If the loft is wet
Water running off the felt, or mould on the underside

Ring rather than use the form. Droplets on the underside of the felt, black mould spreading across the roof timbers, or insulation that is visibly damp are all telling you the same thing: warm wet air is getting into a space that cannot breathe. That does not wait, because it is the timbers that pay for it. We look before anything is added, because putting more insulation into a loft that cannot ventilate makes it worse. Ashley Heath is a short run out along the A31 for us, so a loft that is dripping usually gets seen the same week. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.
Worth knowing
In a bungalow the ceiling is the biggest surface in the house
Just over half the homes in Ashley Heath are bungalows, and that changes the sums. Every room sits directly under the roof, so the ceiling you are insulating is roughly twice the area it would be in a two storey house of the same floor space. Heat loss upward is the largest single thing you can do anything about here, and the loft is the cheapest place in the building to do it.
The catch is the shape of the roof. A bungalow comes down to head height at the edge, so the last metre over the wall plate is the awkward one, and it sits directly above the outside wall of a room you use every day. That corner is where a rushed job stops, and you feel it as a cold strip along the back bedroom wall. We get out there on boards, fit trays so the air gap survives, and carry the depth into the corner rather than tapering it away. A hipped bungalow roof has four of those edges instead of two, which is why they are a separate line on the quote.
Who you are dealing with
A local firm you can check
We cover Ashley Heath, St Leonards, St Ives, Ringwood and the BH24 addresses around them, with Dorset Council for building control. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.
Questions
Ashley Heath questions we get asked
How long does a bungalow loft take?
Most are a day. A clear loft with sound material in it, where the work is straightening what is there and cross laying a second layer, is a morning and an afternoon including the eaves and the hatch. It stretches to two days when the old material has to come out, when there is boarding to lift and relay on legs, or when the loft is full.
We keep things up there. Can we still use the loft?
Yes, but not by boarding straight onto the joists, which squashes the wool to a fraction of its depth and cancels out most of what you are paying for. We build a raised floor on loft legs so the boarding sits clear above full depth: a platform at the hatch, boarded storage where you want it, and the rest laid deep.
Do we need permission or building control?
Not planning permission. Insulation inside the roof of an existing house is not development, so there is nothing to apply for. Building control comes in once a thermal element is renovated rather than topped up, which mainly matters if you are lining out at rafter level. Dorset Council is the authority, and Part L is the standard.
There are downlighters and a water tank up there. What happens to them?
They are part of the job rather than something to work around. Recessed lights are covered so no material touches the fitting, and cable is clipped over the new layer. The tank and its pipework end up on the cold side once the ceiling is insulated, so the pipes are lagged, the tank gets a jacket and a lid, and nothing is laid underneath it.
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Want to know what is actually in your loft?
We will come out, get in through the hatch, measure what is up there, photograph the eaves and put the options in writing. The visit and the quote are both free.
