Patios in West Moors

More than half the houses here are bungalows, and a bungalow sits low, so the damp proof course decides the patio before the paving does.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

Last updated

On a West Moors bungalow the patio has very little height to work with. Finishing two courses below the damp proof course while still getting a fall away from the house is the whole job, and it is why the dig matters more than the slab.

On West Moors bungalow plots a dark, damp strip of wall behind old flags often gets called rising damp when it is really a patio at the wrong height. The other request is a new patio door that opens onto level paving with no step in the way.

Both are level problems. We come out to West Moors, scrape back to find the damp proof course, work out how far the ground has to come down and where the water will run, then price the lift out, the dig, the base, the drainage and the paving on separate lines in a written itemised quote. The site visit and the survey of levels cost nothing.

The work

Paving a bungalow without raising the level

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in West Moors)
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall. Photo from one of our own jobs.

The damp proof course is found first. On a West Moors bungalow it is usually one or two brick courses above the ground and sometimes less, so the first thing we do is scrape the soil back, find it and chalk the DPC on the brickwork.

The finished paving sits at least two courses below that line. On plenty of the properties in West Moors the old flags are already level with it, which is why the wall behind them is dark and the skirting smells of damp in February.

Lifting what is there. Concrete flags on sand, a slab poured for a greenhouse, a crazy paved path from the sixties. Most lifts by hand and goes out by barrow. Anything reinforced needs breaking, and spoil is priced by the load that leaves.

The dig, and getting the depth back. To finish lower than you started the ground has to come out further than most people expect: excavate to formation, then build back up with sub base and bed. That is why a West Moors patio at the right level costs more than one laid on top of the old one, and it is the difference between a dry wall and a damp one.

Base and bed. A geotextile membrane, MOT Type 1 hardcore compacted in layers, a screed of sharp sand to level it, then a full bed of mortar under the whole slab with a slurry primer on the back. Not five dabs. A slab on dabs is hollow underneath, and a hollow slab ends up rocking, cracked and holding water. It is the commonest fault in paving of this age, and a proper mortar bed is the cure.

The paving. Porcelain is calibrated, so the thickness never varies and the joints stay even across a wide open area; it also stays clean where a West Moors bungalow throws shade close to the ground. Indian sandstone is hand cut and warmer, limestone and granite wear harder, and travertine holds water, which matters more on a low patio than a high one.

Thresholds, edges and channel drains. To walk straight out of a patio door without a step, the answer is a recessed ACO channel along the threshold rather than a raised patio. Open edges get a haunched kerb and a coping, and a shingle border runs along the wall. Where a step is unavoidable we set it at a comfortable rise.

Where the water ends up. The fall runs off the house into the channel, an existing gully or a soakaway clear of the foundations. Where the runoff has nowhere to go we build permeable, a different sub base rather than a different slab.

Jointing and keeping it clean. Joints take a brush in resin compound, a grout slurry or hand pointing in mortar, so nothing washes out and weeds get no start. Efflorescence, the white bloom on new stone, is salts drying out of the bed and it weathers off. Algae and staining are different: they are shade and damp, and that is why the falls matter.

How it runs

Building a patio at bungalow level in West Moors

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit (one of our own jobs, shown for patios in West Moors)
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides. Photo from one of our own jobs.

Thomas comes out to West Moors, takes a level from your back door threshold and the damp proof course, and prices the patio himself. The written quote shows excavation and muck away, the sub base, the falls and where water goes, edgings and any steps, the slabs, and jointing. Thomas stays your contact while it is dug, laid and cleared up.

Most bungalows in West Moors have a side path or a gate wide enough for a barrow, and some plots are open enough for a small digger. A chalet with no side access means carrying everything through the house, with floors sheeted. No trench is left open overnight near a door. If the dig finds an old drain, buried rubble or roots, you get told, shown a picture and given a price, and the extra waits for your say so.

Laying a patio at ground level in a back garden is ordinarily permitted development, so planning permission is rarely in play; the government guidance on when permission is required sets out where that stops. The village has no conservation area to consider and one listed entry, so appearance is not controlled. Garden walls above certain heights come under the rules on garden walls. A patio is not building control work, but on a bungalow Approved Document C explains why paving should sit well clear of the damp proof course. Dorset Council is the authority.

Cost

Why a bungalow patio is mostly about levels

The slabs are the part you choose, and usually the smaller share of what you pay. The threshold problem. A bungalow floor often sits only a little above the garden.

On a West Moors plot the paving has to finish well below the damp proof course and still fall away from the house, so the dig beside the wall goes deeper, and the patio may need a step down, a small retaining edge or a slot drain along the back wall. That is where most of the thinking and some of the cost goes.

What comes out. Old concrete paths, the original flags, a rockery or roots from the garden trees are dug out and removed by the load. Until the first test hole is in, nobody knows how much.

The base. Where the ground is clay it stays wet and moves with the seasons, so a deeper bed of compacted stone and a full wet mortar bed under each slab, rather than a few dabs, keep it level. It costs more and lasts.

Getting in. A wide side path and a plot a small digger can reach is quicker than a chalet where every bag and slab is carried through the kitchen.

Ask anyone else how they will deal with the level at your back door, how deep the base is, and whether the slabs go on a full bed.

If it has become a hazard

A slab rocking by the door or a sunken step

A slab lifted at one corner, or a step that has dropped, is a trip hazard, and a patio in the shade of trees can turn green and slippery through the winter. Pick up the phone for this one.

On the first visit we lift and re-lay the worst slab or step to make it safe, then look at whether the base under the rest has gone. If water is sitting against the back wall, tell us, because on a West Moors bungalow that can mean the paving is too high for the damp course. Scheduled patio work is Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm, and if no one answers we will call you back as soon as we can.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

A bungalow leaves you very little height

More than half the dwellings in West Moors are bungalows, which is unusual even on this patch. It changes a patio job in one specific way, and it is not about the size of the garden.

A bungalow sits low. The floor is close to the ground, the damp proof course is often a single course above the soil, and the back door frequently opens straight onto the paving with no step. So the two constraints that decide a patio, keeping the level below the damp course and getting a fall away from the house, fight each other from the start.

That is why the answers in West Moors all buy height back. Dig deeper rather than build up. Use a recessed channel along the door instead of a step. Keep a shingle margin against the wall so splashback does not sit on the brick. And take the old flags out rather than lay over them. Any quote for a bungalow patio that never mentions the damp proof course has not been thought through.

Who you are dealing with

Patios for Station Road, Pinehurst and Moorlands

We lay patios in West Moors village, Station Road, Pinehurst, Moorlands and out towards Ferndown, broadly BH22, under Dorset Council. We are based in Boscombe, 7.1 miles south.

Our registered company is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, England and Wales, company number 15471719, run by its owner Thomas Hannen, who takes the levels at your door and prices the patio in person. On Checkatrade, one verified customer's score for us is 10 out of 10. There is no cost for the site visit or for the written quote, which lists every item. A bungalow front door has the same shallow step, and driveways in West Moors are dug down to it, never raised. Before you book a visit in West Moors, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.

Planning at a glance

Do you need planning permission in West Moors?

Most repairs in West Moors need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.

The planning position in West Moors, from council and national records.
Question In West Moors
Who decides Dorset Council is the planning authority for West Moors. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls.
Conservation area None covers West Moors, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance.
Listed buildings Yes, West Moors has listed buildings. If yours is one, or stands in the grounds of one, work can need listed building consent.
Protected landscape No National Park or National Landscape covers West Moors.

Questions

Questions about patios in West Moors

How far below the damp proof course does a patio have to finish?

At least two brick courses, roughly a hundred and fifty millimetres, with the surface falling away from the wall. On a bungalow that is the tightest measurement on the job, and the one we set out first.

Can I have a level threshold with no step out of the door?

Yes, with a recessed channel drain running along the doorway. It catches the water before it reaches the frame, keeps the paving low and gives a flush finish. It is a proper detail instead of an upgrade, and it is priced as its own line.

Is the damp on my back wall caused by the patio?

Very often, yes. Paving laid up to or above the damp proof course bridges it, and rain splashing off a hard surface soaks the same band of brick every time. Dropping the level and adding a shingle margin usually dries the wall out.

Should I worry about a pale bloom appearing on new paving?

No, it is efflorescence: salts in the bedding mortar coming to the surface as the patio dries out. It looks alarming for a few months and then weathers off. It is not a fault and needs no treating.

Can I still get out of the back door while you work?

We keep a route in and out and never leave the doorway unusable overnight. As for time: about a week for a straightforward patio, two or three days more where old flags come out and a recessed channel goes in.

Free quote

Find the level before you choose the paving

Thomas comes out, finds the damp proof course, works out the dig and the drainage and prices it in writing. The visit and the quote are free.