Patios in West Moors

More than half the houses here are bungalows, and a bungalow sits low, so the damp proof course decides the patio before the paving does.

The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.

On a West Moors bungalow the patio has very little height to work with. Finishing two courses below the damp proof course while still getting a fall away from the house is the whole job, and it is why the dig matters more than the slab.

Two calls come in more than any other. Somebody has a dark, damp strip of wall behind old flags and has been told it is rising damp when it is really a patio at the wrong height. Or somebody wants to walk out of a new patio door onto level paving with no step in the way.

Both are level problems. We come out, scrape back to find the damp proof course, work out how far the ground has to come down and where the water will run, then price the lift out, the dig, the base, the drainage and the paving on separate lines in a written itemised quote. The site visit and the survey of levels cost nothing.

The work

Paving a bungalow without raising the level

Porcelain patio slabs laid to a fall with a gravel border alongside
Laid to a fallWater goes away from the house, not along the wall.

Finding the damp proof course. On a bungalow it is usually one or two brick courses above the ground and sometimes less, so the first thing we do is scrape the soil back, find it and chalk the DPC on the brickwork. The finished paving sits at least two courses below that line. On plenty of the properties here the old flags are already level with it, which is why the wall behind them is dark and the skirting smells of damp in February.

Lifting what is there. Concrete flags on sand, a slab poured for a greenhouse, a crazy paved path from the sixties. Most lifts by hand and goes out by barrow. Anything reinforced needs breaking, and spoil is priced by the load that leaves.

The dig, and getting the depth back. To finish lower than you started the ground has to come out further than most people expect: excavate to formation, then build back up with sub base and bed. That is why a patio at the right level costs more than one laid on top of the old one, and it is the difference between a dry wall and a damp one.

Base and bed. A geotextile membrane, MOT Type 1 hardcore compacted in layers, a screed of sharp sand to level it, then a full bed of mortar under the whole slab with a slurry primer on the back. Not five dabs. A slab on dabs is hollow underneath, and a hollow slab ends up rocking, cracked and holding water. It is the commonest fault we lift out here, and a proper mortar bed is the cure.

The paving. Porcelain is calibrated, so the thickness never varies and the joints stay even across a wide open area; it also stays clean where a bungalow throws shade close to the ground. Indian sandstone is hand cut and warmer, limestone and granite wear harder, and travertine holds water, which matters more on a low patio than a high one.

Thresholds, edges and channel drains. To walk straight out of a patio door without a step, the answer is a recessed ACO channel along the threshold rather than a raised patio. Open edges get a haunched kerb and a coping, and a shingle border runs along the wall. Where a step is unavoidable we set it at a comfortable rise.

Where the water ends up. The fall runs off the house into the channel, an existing gully or a soakaway clear of the foundations. Where the runoff has nowhere to go we build permeable, a different sub base rather than a different slab.

Jointing and keeping it clean. Joints take a brush in resin compound, a grout slurry or hand pointing in mortar, so nothing washes out and weeds get no start. Efflorescence, the white bloom on new stone, is salts drying out of the bed and it weathers off. Algae and staining are different: they are shade and damp, and that is why the falls matter.

How it runs

From your call to a written price

A finished porcelain patio in the wet, showing how the surface drains and where the joints sit
Judged in the wetRain shows the falls and the joints that a dry day hides.

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: excavation and muck away, the sub base, the falls and where water goes, edgings and steps, the slabs themselves, and jointing on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.

Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.

Laying a patio at ground level in a back garden is ordinarily permitted development, so planning permission is rarely in play; the government guidance on when permission is required sets out where that stops. There is no conservation area over the village and a single listed entry, so appearance is not controlled here. Garden walls above certain heights are covered by the rules on garden walls. What does bite on a bungalow is building control rather than planning: keeping the paving clear of the damp proof course comes from Approved Document C.

Cost

What decides the price of a patio

No rate per square metre, because the slabs are the part you choose and the smallest part of the price.

Getting to it. A bungalow with a wide side path, a chalet where the only access is through the kitchen, and a plot open enough for a machine and a skip on the drive are three different jobs. Everything comes in and goes out through the garden, often through a side gate or the house. A patio you can barrow to directly is a different job from one where every slab is carried. The work at height rules still apply to the dig and the machinery.

What is coming out before anything goes down. An old concrete slab, a raised bed, tree roots or made ground all have to be dug out and taken away, and that is priced by the load rather than by the metre. The dig is where a patio quote is won or lost.

Falls, levels and the damp course. A patio has to fall away from the house and finish at least two courses below the damp proof course, and getting that right often means steps, a retaining edge or a drainage channel. Laying a new patio up against a wall at the wrong level is the single most expensive mistake on this kind of job.

Comparing quotes? Ask how deep the dig goes and what sub base is specified, whether the slabs are laid on a full wet bed or on dabs, what the falls are and where the water goes, whether edgings and steps are included, and what the jointing compound is. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.

If it has become a hazard

A patio that has lifted, sunk or turned slippery

Ring rather than use the form. A slab that has lifted at one corner or a step that has dropped is a trip, and a north facing patio in winter can be genuinely dangerous. We can usually lift and re-lay the worst of it quickly, then look properly at whether the base under the rest has gone. West Moors is about seven miles from us, so a rocking slab by a door or wet brickwork behind old paving is normally seen within a day or two. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.

Call now: 07435 839745

Worth knowing

A bungalow leaves you very little height

More than half the dwellings in West Moors are bungalows, which is unusual even on this patch. It changes a patio job in one specific way, and it is not about the size of the garden.

A bungalow sits low. The floor is close to the ground, the damp proof course is often a single course above the soil, and the back door frequently opens straight onto the paving with no step. So the two constraints that decide a patio, keeping the level below the damp course and getting a fall away from the house, fight each other from the start.

That is why the answers here all buy height back. Dig deeper rather than build up. Use a recessed channel along the door instead of a step. Keep a shingle margin against the wall so splashback does not sit on the brick. And take the old flags out rather than lay over them. Any quote for a bungalow patio that never mentions the damp proof course has not been thought through.

Who you are dealing with

A local firm you can check

We cover West Moors village, Station Road, Pinehurst, Moorlands and out towards Ferndown, broadly BH22, under Dorset Council. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.

Questions

West Moors questions we get asked

How far below the damp proof course does a patio have to finish?

At least two brick courses, roughly a hundred and fifty millimetres, with the surface falling away from the wall. On a bungalow that is the tightest measurement on the job, and the one we set out first.

Can I have a level threshold with no step out of the door?

Yes, with a recessed channel drain running along the doorway. It catches the water before it reaches the frame, keeps the paving low and gives a flush finish. It is a proper detail rather than an upgrade, and it is priced as its own line.

Is the damp on my back wall caused by the patio?

Very often, yes. Paving laid up to or above the damp proof course bridges it, and rain splashing off a hard surface soaks the same band of brick every time. Dropping the level and adding a shingle margin usually dries the wall out.

Should I worry about a pale bloom appearing on new paving?

No. It is efflorescence: salts in the bedding mortar coming to the surface as the patio dries out. It looks alarming for a few months and then weathers off. It is not a fault and needs no treating.

Can I still get out of the back door while you work?

We keep a route in and out and never leave the doorway unusable overnight. People ask how long: about a week for a straightforward patio, two or three days more where old flags come out and a recessed channel goes in.

Free quote

Find the level before you choose the paving

Thomas comes out, finds the damp proof course, works out the dig and the drainage and prices it in writing. The visit and the quote are free.