Wall insulation in Longham
A detached house on open ground takes weather on all four walls, and that decides what should go in the cavity and what should stay out of it.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
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Most Longham houses have a cavity that can be filled, once a borescope shows it clear and dry and the exposure of each wall has been judged. Nearly half the houses here are detached and stand on open plots beside the water meadows, which means all four elevations take weather instead of one. That changes what should go in a cavity, and on the worst wall it can change whether the cavity ought to be filled at all.
A survey is worth having in Longham for a south west facing wall that has gone patchy and cold since it was filled, a bungalow that never feels even from one end to the other, and two quotes where one says bead and the other says wool and neither explains why.
We settle it by looking. One small hole in a mortar joint, a borescope through it, moisture readings on the inside face, and a walk round to see which elevation is taking the driving rain. Then a free written itemised quote, with the survey, the system, the junctions and the making good on separate lines. For the loft, see insulation in Longham.
The work
Filling a wall that has weather on every side

The check that decides it. A nine inch solid wall and an early brick and block cavity are indistinguishable from the drive. So we drill a small hole in a mortar joint and put a borescope in: is there a gap, how wide, is it clear, is it dry, has anything been in it. On an exposed house we also look at the state of the outer leaf, because that is what stands between the fill and the rain.
Cavity wall insulation, and the choice of material. Bonded polystyrene bead is usually the right answer on an exposed Longham wall. It flows into the corners, it does not slump, and it is far less inclined to wick water across the gap than a fibre. Blown mineral wool is cheaper and perfectly sound on a sheltered elevation, which on a detached house often means only one or two of the four. Fill goes in from outside through drilled holes made good in matching mortar.
When we say leave it empty. A cavity that is under fifty millimetres, one with mortar droppings bridging the ties, a cracked or badly pointed outer leaf, or any sign of water already crossing, and filling it moves the problem inside. On the most exposed wall of an isolated house the honest answer is sometimes to repoint and repair first and insulate that elevation on the inside instead.
Internal wall insulation. IWI is the route for a solid wall and the fallback for a cavity we will not fill: insulated plasterboard bonded on, or batten and stud with mineral wool or PIR between, boarded and skimmed. Celotex and Kingspan buy more per millimetre, aerogel board suits a tight room. Reveals, threshold, floor junction and joist ends are wrapped, because the heat loss in a lined room concentrates at the edges.
External wall insulation. EWI is board on the outside face with a render carrier and a thin coat over it. On an exposed Longham house it does two jobs at once, insulating and weatherproofing, and it takes the thermal bridge out at eaves and corners. It thickens every reveal and pushes sills and rainwater goods outwards, so it is a bigger piece of work than a fill.
Old fill, and ventilation. A slumped cavity leaves a cold band at the head of the wall; a wet cavity carries penetrating damp inside and black mould with it. The borescope reads both and extraction comes first. Then the air: trickle vents, a working extract fan, any air brick that has been blocked. Insulating shifts the dew point and removes the draughts, so a taped vapour control layer and breathable materials keep interstitial condensation out of the build up.
How it runs
Cavity fill on a sixties house: checking before drilling

Thomas comes out and checks the walls himself before pricing anything. Most Longham homes date from the sixties and seventies, with brick or block cavity walls, and many were never filled. Before any quote he drills one small hole and puts a borescope into the cavity, to see its width, whether it is clean, and whether someone has already filled it.
Your quote then lists the inspection, which fill or board and how thick, the making good at each window and door, any airbrick sleeves or vents, and clearing up. For a fill, a separate cavity installer drills a grid of holes along the mortar lines, blows the insulation in and points each hole to match. A bungalow is done from the ground or a low tower. Airbricks are kept open and sleeved through the cavity, and the site is swept each day. Rubble in the cavity or corroded ties get photographed and costed for you, and nothing more happens until you agree.
Dry-lining the inside of a wall is not development, and the Planning Portal insulation guidance says as much. Insulating the outside face is different, and Planning Portal guidance on external walls says when. No conservation area covers Longham, and Dorset Council's listed building pages show the listed ones. It is notifiable work: regulation 23 and Approved Document L set the U value the Part L standard needs.
Cost
Filled, unfilled or solid: the wall sets the price
Which wall you have. A clean, dry, empty cavity is usually filled in a day, the cheapest way there is to insulate a wall. A cavity filled years ago with fibre that has slumped or got wet may need extracting first, which is a much bigger job. A solid wall, found on the few older cottages in Longham, has no gap to fill, so it means boards on the inside or a system on the outside.
Exposure. A south west gable on an open Longham plot takes the driven rain. Bonded bead and mineral wool behave differently on a wall like that, and the wrong one bridges water across the cavity. The survey decides the material.
The junctions. For internal lining, window reveals, the floor junction and the eaves are where heat leaks out and where condensation shows if the detail is sloppy. That is slow work and most of the labour.
Access and disruption. Cavity fill is drilled from outside. A bungalow needs little more than a ladder and a low tower, while a two storey gable needs more, and the work at height rules set the platform. Internal lining is done room by room from inside.
Ask other quotes: has anyone looked into the cavity with a borescope? Which material and thickness, and why? Is ventilation addressed? Who makes good the plaster and decoration after?
If damp has appeared
Damp patches since the cavity was filled
Ring rather than using the form if damp patches or black mould have shown up on an outside wall since the cavity was filled or the wall was lined. Either rain is crossing the fill, or warm air from the room is hitting a cold spot at a reveal or where the floor meets the wall.
Note which wall it is on, and whether it shows the day after heavy rain or creeps in slowly over weeks, because those two point at different causes. Open a window and pull furniture away from the wall for now. On the first visit we look and test before anything is taken out, because the fix depends on the cause. Normal hours are Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. An unanswered call gets a ring back as soon as we can.
Worth knowing
Driven rain, and why an exposed wall gets a different fill
A cavity was invented to break the path water takes through a wall. Rain soaks the outer leaf, runs down the inside face of it and drains back out, and the inner leaf stays dry.
Put the wrong material in that gap on a wall exposed to driven rain and you hand the water a bridge, which is why a filled wall on an open plot can start showing damp patches inside that it never had before. BS 8104 is the code that sets out how you assess a wall's exposure to wind driven rain, and on the open ground beside the meadows the south west elevation is in a different class from the sheltered side of the same house.
In practice that means treating the elevations separately rather than quoting a house as one number. Bead on the exposed walls, wool where it is sheltered if that is what suits the budget, and on the worst wall of all sometimes nothing in the cavity and a lining on the inside instead. It also means the outer leaf gets looked at first: open joints and a cracked render let water in faster than any fill can cope with, and repointing that wall is the cheaper half of the job.
Who you are dealing with
The firm behind your wall insulation
We cover Longham from our base in Boscombe, 4.7 miles away, including the Ham Lane side, Hampreston and the BH22 addresses around them. For planning and for building control alike, the authority is Dorset Council.
Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd is registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, and it is Thomas Hannen's company. He is the one who drills the test hole, looks into your cavity and prices the job. There is a verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. We charge nothing to come out, and nothing for the written quote with its items set out. Before you book a visit in Longham, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Longham?
Most repairs in Longham need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Longham |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Longham. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Longham, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, there are listed buildings in and around Longham. If yours is one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Longham. |
Questions
Questions about wall insulation in Longham
Can filling a cavity make a wall wetter?
Yes, filling a cavity can make a wall wetter on an exposed elevation with the wrong material or a poor outer leaf. The fill gives water a path across a gap that was there to stop it, which is why the survey looks at exposure.
Why bead on one wall and wool on another?
Because the walls are not in the same weather. Bead resists carrying water across and holds its shape, so it suits the elevations that take driving rain. Mineral wool is fine where it is sheltered.
Should the pointing be done before the walls are insulated?
On an exposed wall, yes. Open joints let far more water into the outer leaf than any fill can handle, and it is cheaper to sort the rain out before you close the gap.
Is it worth insulating just the cold end of the house?
Often, as long as the junctions where the work stops are detailed. An untreated edge next to a treated one becomes the new cold spot and shows up as condensation.
How many days for a detached house on an open plot?
A day for most, including making good the drilled holes. Larger properties with awkward elevations and a lot of corners can run into a second.
Nearby, and next door
Wall insulation near Longham
Nearby places we also cover for wall insulation, with straight-line distances from Longham, and the other trades we offer in Longham itself.
Wall insulation nearby
Our other trades in Longham
Wall insulation guides
Damp at the bottom of a wall: what it is PIR board vs mineral wool: which insulation? Hollow-sounding wall: blown plaster or dot and dabEverything we do in Kinson Wall insulation, all areas Every area we cover
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Get the exposed wall assessed, not assumed
Thomas comes out, scopes the cavity, looks at what the weather does to each elevation and prices it in writing. The visit and the quote are free.
