Rendering in Alderholt, where the choice is yours
Nothing here is listed and there is no conservation area, so the finish is your decision, which makes the specification the only thing protecting the wall.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
There is no conservation area here and nothing in the parish is listed, so nobody is going to tell you what colour or texture to put on your house. That makes the specification the only thing standing between a good render job and an expensive one, which is why we tap the wall before we talk about finishes.
Most of what we are called to falls into a few groups. A 1980s elevation where the original dry dash has started shedding onto the drive. An older cottage wall where a cement render has cracked and gone hollow. And extensions, where somebody wants the new work and the old house to end up looking like one building.
The village is a mix. A fifth of it went up before 1919 and the biggest single block dates from the 1980s, so two houses a hundred yards apart can need different systems. We tap every elevation, work out what the wall behind is made of, and itemise the access, preparation, system, beads and making good. The visit and the written quote are free.
The work
Dry dash, cracked cement and joining an extension in

Tapping the wall. Nothing gets priced until the elevation has been sounded out. Render that is still bonded rings hard; render that has parted from the background sounds hollow and drummy. The hollow area is nearly always wider than the crack that prompted the call.
Hacking off and rebuilding. Blown render comes off back to a clean sound background. Loose joints behind it are repaired, a stabilising primer goes on where the surface is dusty, then a mesh reinforced basecoat and the finish. Rendering over a hollow wall is the single most common thing we are asked to put right.
Silicone thin coat. The right answer on the 1980s cavity walled houses here. Through coloured so a chip does not show white, applied thin over a reinforced basecoat, flexible enough to take small movement, and it washes down. On a cavity wall the breathability question does not bite the way it does on solid masonry.
Monocouche. A single through coloured coat applied thick, ruled off and scraped back to a fine even texture. Hard wearing and needs no painting. It wants a stable background and planned day joints, so we decide where each day's work stops before the first mix is made.
Sand and cement, pebbledash and Tyrolean. Traditional scratch and float coats, and dash repairs where the elevation still carries it. Much of the dash here is forty years old and shedding, and the honest choice is between patching the worst of it and taking the wall back to brick.
Older solid walls. A fifth of the housing predates 1919. Those are solid walls, built breathable, designed to take moisture in and let it dry back out through the face. Wrap one in a plastic rich modern render and the moisture is trapped, so it comes out on the inside instead. Those walls get lime, which stays open and moves with the period fabric.
Extensions and making good. Joining a rear extension to an existing rendered house is fussier than rendering either alone. The two backgrounds move at different rates, so a movement joint goes in at the junction and mesh is carried across the change of material.
External wall insulation. Board fixed to the outside and rendered over, on a render carrier where the background will not take a direct fix. It thickens the wall, so sills, reveals, eaves, vents and downpipes are all reworked as part of the job.
Cracking, delamination and staining. Straight hairline cracks are usually shrinkage in the render. Stepped or widening cracks are movement behind it and want investigating first. Green on a shaded elevation is a wash and a treatment; a topcoat that comes off on your hand is a recoat.
How it runs
From your call to a written price

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: access and scaffold, protection, preparation of the existing wall, the system and number of coats, beads and stop ends, and making good on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.
Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.
Nothing in the parish is listed and there is no conservation area, so re-rendering and even changing the finish sit inside permitted development for most houses here. The Planning Portal sets out the exceptions, which mainly catch flats, maisonettes and anywhere a direction has removed the right. Building control is the one that does engage: Approved Document L asks for the thermal element to be improved once a large enough area of an external wall is renewed.
Cost
What decides the price of a rendering job
No rate per square metre, because the square metres are the easy part; what is already on the wall decides the price.
Getting to it. A 1980s detached house with clear ground round it, a semi with a narrow side passage, and an older cottage tight to a lane are three different platforms before a bag of render is opened. A bungalow gable comes off a tower, a three storey elevation wants a scaffold, and the platform has to stand for the whole system rather than a day. The work at height rules are why it is a priced line rather than something folded into a rate.
What is already on the wall. Rendering over sound brick is one job. Hacking off blown sand and cement, or a pebbledash that has parted from the background, is another, and it is the part nobody can see from the road. We tap the whole elevation before quoting, because the hollow areas set the hours.
The system, and what the wall behind it needs. Silicone thin coat over insulation, monocouche through-coloured, or traditional sand and cement all price differently and behave differently. On a solid wall that has to breathe, a plastic-rich modern system traps moisture and moves the problem inside, so the right system is a wall decision rather than a colour decision.
Comparing quotes? Ask which system is being quoted and how many coats, whether the old render is being hacked off or overlaid, whether beads, bellcast and stop ends are included, whether the scaffold is in the price, and what happens to the existing sills and pipework. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.
If it has started to come away
Render that has blown or cracked open
Ring rather than use the form. A section that sounds hollow when you tap it, or a crack you can get a coin into, is letting water behind the render and the frost does the rest. We make the loose area safe, sheet it if the weather is against us, and price the elevation once we can see how far the blown area actually goes. Dry dash that has started to shed comes off faster once the frost gets behind it, so a wall dropping stones onto a drive is worth looking at before the winter rather than after. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.
Worth knowing
Nobody is going to stop you doing the wrong thing here
On most of the villages around here the planning position does some of the thinking for you. A conservation area or a listing forces a conversation about materials before anything comes off the wall, and that conversation catches a lot of bad specifications by accident. Here there is neither. No conservation area, nothing listed, and for the great majority of addresses a free choice of finish.
That is good news if you want a modern through coloured render on a 1980s house, and a trap on an older one. The wall does not care about the planning position. A solid pre-1919 wall behaves the same here as it would inside a conservation area: it needs to breathe, and a plastic rich system traps moisture and moves the damp indoors. So the question to ask whoever quotes is not whether you are allowed. It is what the wall is made of and why their system suits that background.
Who you are dealing with
A local firm you can check
We cover the village, Sandleheath, Cranborne and the lanes towards Fordingbridge, broadly SP6, under Dorset Council. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.
Questions
Alderholt questions we get asked
Do I need permission to change the render finish on my house?
For most houses in the village, no. Rendering an existing house is normally permitted development and there is no conservation area or listing here to override it. Flats and maisonettes are treated differently, and we check the address rather than assume before quoting a change of appearance.
What tells you whether a modern system will suit my wall?
Mostly the thickness. Measured at a window reveal, a solid wall is usually around 230mm and shows brick ends worked into the bond. A cavity wall is nearer 300mm and shows only long faces. Cavity takes a modern through coloured system; solid does not.
Our dry dash is dropping stones onto the drive. Is that urgent?
It is worth looking at before winter. Shedding means the topcoat has lost its grip on the coat below, and once water gets into that gap frost lifts the rest of it off much faster. Small areas can be patched. A whole elevation that is going is better taken off at once.
Can you render a new extension to match the old house?
Yes, and the join is the part that needs care. Two different backgrounds move at different rates, so we put a movement joint at the junction and carry mesh reinforcement across the change of material. Matching a weathered finish exactly is harder, and we will show you a sample first.
How long before I can paint a new sand and cement render?
Longer than most people want to hear. A cement render carries a lot of water and needs weeks rather than days to dry through, and painting early traps it and lifts the paint. Through coloured systems avoid the wait, which is one reason we suggest them.
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Ask what the wall is made of before you pick a finish
Thomas comes out, taps every elevation, works out what the background actually is and prices the right system with the access, beads and making good itemised. The visit and the quote are free.
