Loft insulation in Alderholt
Topping up settled wool, boarding put back on loft legs, the hatch sealed and the eaves left open, across Alderholt and the SP6 lanes.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
Last updated
Most Alderholt lofts need topping up, not emptying: a second run of mineral wool laid across the joists to bring the ceiling to about 270mm, which is the depth to aim for. Storage goes back on raised boards so the wool is not squashed, the eaves stay open for air, and the tank and pipes get lagged because they now sit in the cold. Walls and floors are covered on our Alderholt insulation page.
When to call
Cold bedrooms, flattened wool, and water on the felt

A loft in Alderholt usually gives its problem away in the bedrooms, under the boards or on the felt. The bedrooms never warm up whatever the heating does all evening. Somebody has been up for the suitcases and found the wool pressed flat under the boards. Or there is water sitting on the underside of the felt in the morning and nobody is sure whether that is the roof or the loft.
Any of them wants a survey rather than a guess from the landing. We get up there with a tape and a torch, tease the material apart to find what depth is genuinely under the surface, check the eaves are still open, and photograph it so you see what we saw. Then you get an itemised written quote. The site visit and the quote are free, and if your loft is already fine we will say so.
The work
What an Alderholt loft usually holds

The top up comes first. Most of Alderholt went up on trussed rafters, and the pattern inside is the same in nearly all of them. One layer of mineral wool pushed down between the joists when the house was built, compressed and settled ever since, patchy at the edges and gone altogether in the far corners.
It is doing something. It is not doing enough. Over it goes a second layer of roll, cross laid across the joists at right angles to the first, so the timber stops working as a cold bridge. Two layers, about 270mm finished, is the depth a renovated ceiling is expected to reach.
The joists set what the first layer can be. They are rarely deep enough on their own, so a roll laid flush with the top of the timber gets nowhere near that, and anyone who lays one layer between the joists and calls it finished has sold you half a job. A trussed roof is full of bracing, so we work off a crawl board out from the hatch rather than walking about. An older cut roof with purlins gives room to move and takes deeper material.
The eaves stay open. Insulation stops at the wall plate and never goes past it. Push it into the eaves and you close the air gap the roof breathes through, and a roof that cannot breathe puts the moisture back onto the underside of the felt. A vent tray at each rafter lets the material run out to the edge without blocking anything, and the cross ventilation from soffit to soffit gets checked before any depth is added. Where the underlay is old bitumen and the soffits are boxed solid, a ridge vent is what fixes it.
Boarding, and keeping the loft usable. Boards laid straight onto joists are the commonest fault in an Alderholt loft, because they flatten what is underneath and flat wool insulates about as well as a carpet. Loft legs carry a raised floor clear of the second layer, we board a platform at the hatch and out to where you put things, and the hatch itself is insulated and draught sealed.
What else lives up there. Downlighters take fire rated covers first, and cables are clipped above the new layer rather than buried, because wiring buried in insulation runs hot. A cold water tank and its pipework have just been put out in the cold, so they get lagging in the same visit. We will talk you out of the whole thing where the loft is wet, where the material is contaminated with droppings, or where there is already a room in the roof with sloping ceilings and a dormer, because there the work belongs at rafter level as a warm roof build up.
How it runs
Topping up a loft without blocking the eaves

No price is written until Thomas has had his head and shoulders through the hatch of your Alderholt loft. He checks the depth and condition of the old insulation, the joists, the eaves and any condensation marks on the felt. Then comes the quote: the survey, bagging the old material, new rolls of mineral wool and how deep they go, keeping the eaves ventilated, the hatch and pipework, and disposal.
Plenty of eighties lofts in Alderholt were insulated when new, and that layer is now thin and flattened. Bungalows have big lofts for their size, which is why topping them up repays itself quickest. One layer goes between the joists and a second crosses over them, and the tank, pipes and hatch lid are wrapped too. Crawl boards keep feet off the ceilings, the landing is dust-sheeted and hoovered daily, and the bags go on our van.
Damp timber or a roof leak found up there is photographed and priced, and you decide before we act. Insulating a loft floor is outside planning altogether, which the Planning Portal insulation page makes clear. Building control only becomes involved when the roof itself is renovated, at which point regulation 23 brings it up to standard. Alderholt has no conservation area, but there are listed buildings in the parish, the Church of St James among them, so check the list if your house is old.
Cost
Why one loft takes a morning and another takes a day

The floor area of a loft is simple to work out. The edges, the hatch and what is already up there take the time.
Getting up there. A bungalow with the hatch in the hall is the easy one, and bungalows are a good share of the houses in Alderholt. A chalet with a room already in the roof leaves only the eaves voids, reached through small doors on your knees. A hatch above the stairwell of a two storey house needs a platform before anyone goes up, and a boarded loft has to be lifted and relaid.
What is already there. Old wool that is compressed or dirty is bagged and taken out, and stored boxes have to be shifted. Joists at even spacing with a clear run go quickly, while a trussed roof full of diagonal bracing means cutting every roll round the timber.
Ventilation and the edges. The mineral wool is stopped short at the wall plate so air can still come in at the eaves, otherwise the loft gets warm and wet together. Most of the labour goes on the corners, the hatch lid, boxing round downlighters and lagging any pipe that is now on the cold side. Approved Document L sets the depth to aim for.
Ask others how many layers they lay, whether the old wool comes out, and how they keep the eaves open.
If the loft is wet
Droplets on the felt, or mould on the roof timbers
Water beading on the underside of the roof felt, black spots of mould on the rafters, or insulation that feels damp all point to moist air from the house getting into a cold roof space with nowhere to go.
Hold off adding insulation, because in a loft that cannot ventilate it makes things worse. Make sure the bathroom fan vents outside rather than into the roof space, and keep the hatch shut. On the first visit we trace the source and open up the eaves before anything else goes in. Our booked hours are Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm. Call instead of using the form, and we ring back as soon as we can if nobody answers.
Worth knowing
No conservation area here, and where that starts to matter
Alderholt is one of the few villages on this patch with no conservation area over it. Its listed buildings, the Church of St James among them, stand at the edge of the village, but check the Historic England list for your own address before anything changes on the roof.
For a loft that matters less than it would for a roof, since what you lay over your ceiling is invisible from the pavement wherever you live. It starts to matter the moment the work stops being invisible.
If the honest answer to a cold house is more ventilation rather than more wool, that can mean vent tiles on the slope or a run of over fascia vents at the eaves, and both change what the roof looks like. Here that is your decision and nobody else's. So is a rooflight over the landing to get a proper opening and a proper ladder into the loft, which is worth more than people expect where the only access is a small square over the stairs. Inside a conservation area each of those is a conversation with the planners first. Planning Portal guidance sets out where permitted development stops.
Who you are dealing with
The person who goes up into your loft
Lofts in Alderholt, Daggons and Cripplestyle are on our patch, as are Sandleheath, Cranborne and Verwood, and building control here sits with Dorset Council. The journey from Boscombe is 12.5 miles. Behind the work is Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719. Before you book a visit in Alderholt, you can read our customers' Google reviews, word for word, on our reviews page.
The owner, Thomas Hannen, climbs through your hatch, sees the loft for himself and puts the price together. On Checkatrade, one verified customer has marked us 10 out of 10. Visiting costs you nothing, and neither does the written quote, which breaks down each item.
Planning at a glance
Do you need planning permission in Alderholt?
Most repairs in Alderholt need no application at all. What decides whether a change to the outside of your house does is who the council is, whether a conservation area or a listing applies, and whether the place sits in a protected landscape.
| Question | In Alderholt |
|---|---|
| Who decides | Dorset Council is the planning authority for Alderholt. Dorset Council's heritage pages set out what it controls. |
| Conservation area | None covers Alderholt, so a like-for-like repair is ordinary maintenance. |
| Listed buildings | Yes, Alderholt has listed buildings. If yours is one, or stands in the grounds of one, work can need listed building consent. |
| Protected landscape | No National Park or National Landscape covers Alderholt. |
Questions
Questions about loft insulation in Alderholt
What do you actually lay up there?
Mineral wool roll in most lofts in Alderholt, glass wool or rockwool depending. Batts where the space between joists is awkward, loose fill where a trussed roof is too full of bracing to get a roll into the corners, and sheep wool where somebody wants it. PIR rigid board, the foil faced sort such as Celotex, and multi-foil quilt belong at rafter level, not on a loft floor.
Can I still use the loft for storage afterwards?
Yes, and it is worth settling at the survey. Boarding laid straight onto the joists flattens whatever is under it, so we fit loft legs and take the raised floor up clear of the second layer. Tell us what goes up there and we board a platform for that instead of the whole loft.
There are downlighters in the ceiling below. Does that change the job?
It changes the sequence more than anything. Recessed lights throw heat and cannot be smothered, so covers go over them before material comes near. Both are quick, and both get missed by anyone pricing off the floor area alone.
How long does a loft take, and what does it do to the heating bill?
Half a day to a day, depending on access and how much boarding comes up and goes back. The ceiling is one of the main routes for heat out of a house and the cheapest one to close, so depth over your head is the cheapest thermal work there is, and it shows on an EPC as well as on the bill.
Nearby, and next door
Loft insulation near Alderholt
Nearby places we also cover for loft insulation, with straight-line distances from Alderholt, and the other trades we offer in Alderholt itself.
Loft insulation nearby
Our other trades in Alderholt
Loft insulation guides
Part L: do you have to insulate when you re-roof? Loft condensation or a roof leak: how to tell PIR board vs mineral wool: which insulation?Everything we do in Verwood Loft insulation, all areas Every area we cover
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Get a price for your Alderholt loft
Tell us the address and what you have noticed upstairs. We will come out, measure what is genuinely up there, and put an itemised price in writing. No charge and no obligation.
