Fascias, soffits and guttering in Tarrant Monkton
Cast iron repaired where it is worth keeping, timber pieced in rather than ripped out, and a straight answer on what needs consent.
The site visit is free and so is the written itemised quote. Thomas Hannen prices every job himself.
In Tarrant Monkton the odds are decent that your house is either listed or in the conservation area, so the first thing we work out is which. It changes whether you are having a repair or making an application, and it changes what we would recommend.
The work itself is the same everywhere. A gutter has pulled away from the wall. A hopper head is overflowing down a render. A fascia has softened, with the paint peeling and blown, a sagging run and a leaking joint above a green stripe on the wall. A soffit has dropped away and something is nesting in the gap behind it.
What differs is the answer we give. On an older village property the right job is often a careful repair rather than a replacement, and it is usually cheaper as well as easier to get agreed. So we come out, get to the eaves, test any timber with a screwdriver, look at how the run is fixed and photograph it, then put a written quote in front of you, itemised so that the boards, the run, every downpipe and the access all carry separate figures. No charge for either.
The work
Cast iron, hoppers and the boards behind them

Cast iron and hopper heads. A good deal of the older pipework in villages like this is cast iron, often dropping from a hopper head at high level. Cast iron is worth keeping: the metal outlasts anything that would replace it, and what has actually failed is the putty and bolt at a joint, the fixing into a soft fascia, or the paint. We strip and re-bed the joint, refix into sound timber, then prepare and paint the run inside and out. A hopper that is overflowing is usually blocked with moss and debris off the tiles rather than broken, and once it is clear and the outlet below it is proved with water, the staining down the wall stops getting worse.
The boards behind it. Where there is a painted timber fascia it rots on its hidden face, at the end of a length, and along its top edge where the felt has been shedding onto it. A screwdriver settles the argument. On these houses we will often piece in a section rather than renew the whole board, which keeps the look and keeps the cost down. Where the whole thing has gone, the fascia, soffit and bargeboard come off together and you finally get to see the rafter feet and the wall plate. Soft rafter ends are spliced, the tilt fillet is reinstated beneath the bottom course of tiles, and a felt support tray brings the underlay forward so it drips over the gutter rather than at the back of the gutter. Fixing the bottom course properly as it goes back is what ' + C['bs5534'] + ' asks for.
Capping over. Fixing plastic over an existing board is honest work on dry, sound, firmly held timber, and we will price it that way where that is what we find. Over rot it is a cover rather than a cure, and on a village frontage it is also the thing most likely to be noticed and questioned. It is not our default here.
Profile, fall and pipework. Half round reads correctly on an older elevation, ogee sits square against a fascia, and deepflow holds more water for the same width where a long slope drains into one short run. Outlets, unions, brackets, downpipes and shoes are itemised one by one, and where a plastic run is being renewed rather than removed, aluminium is worth pricing on a long elevation because it arrives in longer sections. Driving rain drives water at the back of the gutter, so the rainwater a run cannot take ends up in the wall instead of the discharge. Whatever goes up is set to a fall towards the outlet rather than dead level, because a level run holds water all year and gives up whenever it rains hard. The run is re-hung on brackets set close enough that no length can bow, each into timber that holds a screw, and every downpipe is refixed with fresh clips. Then it is filled from the far end and watched out at the shoe. Downpipes finish into a gully or a soakaway, since one emptying at the foot of a wall puts damp into the stonework.
Air and nuisance. Where there is a soffit, having it down is the moment to put the eaves ventilation right. Soffit vents, or an over fascia vent where the boards are shallow, hold an air gap above the loft insulation, and that is what keeps condensation off the felt in a wet winter. Mesh goes on with the new boards and at the verge to keep nesting birds and wasps out, and any moss and debris that has come off the tiles is taken out of the outlet.
How it runs
From your call to a written price

Same team from first visit to last, one person to ring, and no sub-contracting your work out to somebody you have never met. The quote is itemised, not a figure on the back of a card: access, the length of each run, stripping the old boards and gutter, the fascia, soffit and any bargeboard, the gutter, outlets and downpipes, and disposal on separate lines, so you can compare it properly against anyone else's.
Nothing is left open or unusable overnight. The site is swept at the end of each day rather than the end of the job, and what comes out leaves with us. If something turns up once we start that nobody could have seen, you get a photograph and a price before we carry on.
Renewing a roofline in the same material and the same place is repair, so there is no planning application and nothing for building control. Tarrant Monkton has its own conservation area, which is article 2(3) land and narrows permitted development, and many of the buildings in the village are listed, where work needs listed building consent even for a like for like change of material.
Cost
What decides the price of a roofline

No rate per square metre, because a metre of fascia over a bay is not the same metre as one on a straight gable.
Getting to it. A tiled cottage with a low eaves on the lane, a farmhouse with a hopper head at high level, and a modern house at the edge of the village are three different ways in. A bungalow run comes off a tower, a two or three storey gable wants a scaffold, and a run over a conservatory or a bay window means building the platform around it. The work at height rules are why the access is a priced line rather than something absorbed into a rate.
What is behind the boards. Rotten fascia is a symptom. The question is whether the rafter feet and the wall plate behind it are still sound, and nobody knows until the old board comes off. Capping over with plastic hides that instead of fixing it, which is why we take the old boards off rather than clad them.
The run, not the metre. A straight gable is quick. Bay windows, a conservatory in the way, a corner return, a run that has to be worked around a satellite dish or a service cable, and every outlet, hopper and downpipe are priced one at a time. So is putting the fall back: a gutter hung level looks fine and holds water all year.
Comparing quotes? Ask whether the old boards are coming off or being capped over, what happens if the rafter feet or the wall plate turn out to be rotten, whether the gutter, outlets and downpipes are all being renewed or only the fascia, and whether the scaffold is in the price. Two quotes for the same job are usually two different jobs.
If a section has come away
A gutter hanging off, or a fascia gone through
Ring rather than use the form. A length of gutter pulled off its brackets, a downpipe snapped at the bend or a fascia soft enough to put your hand through goes to the front of the queue, because the next heavy rain runs straight down the wall and into the brickwork. The first visit is about getting it supported and discharging somewhere sensible, and we price the run properly once we can see how far the rot goes. Tarrant Monkton is a fair way inland from us, so ring rather than email and tell us if water is already getting into the wall. The phone is answered 24 hours for emergencies; scheduled work runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm.
Worth knowing
Repair is the route of least resistance here
This is a small village with a large number of listed entries in it and a conservation area over the top. Statistically, if you own a house on the lane, there is a fair chance the building is protected in one way or the other. That sounds like an obstacle. In practice it points you at the answer that is usually better anyway.
Repairing what is there needs no application. Re-bedding a cast iron joint, refixing brackets into spliced timber, piecing in a rotten section of fascia and repainting the run are all maintenance, and nobody has to be asked. Replacing painted timber with foiled plastic, or cast iron with uPVC, is a change of material, and on a listed building that needs consent regardless of which elevation it is on. It is not a refusal in every case, but it is an application, a wait, and a written description of the works. Given that a proper cast iron repair often lasts longer than the plastic that would have replaced it, the sensible order is to price the repair first and only apply if the repair genuinely is not viable. That is how we quote these, and we will tell you plainly which category your address falls into on the visit.
Who you are dealing with
A local firm you can check
We cover Tarrant Monkton, the Tarrant villages, Pimperne, Blandford Forum, Spetisbury and Witchampton, broadly DT11, under Dorset Council. You are dealing with Bournemouth Roofing & Building, the trading name of Bournemouth Roofing & Building Ltd, registered in England and Wales, company number 15471719, which you can look up in a minute. Thomas Hannen's business, and he is the one who comes out to price the job, not a salesman. A verified customer's 10 out of 10 on Checkatrade. The visit and the written quote are both free.
Questions
Tarrant Monkton questions we get asked
My house is listed. Can you still work on it?
Yes. Most of what a roofline needs is repair, and repair does not require consent. Where you genuinely want a change of material we will say so, price it, and give you a written description of the works to send with the application.
Why is my hopper head overflowing?
Nearly always because it has packed with moss and debris coming off the tiles, or because the outlet under it has silted. Occasionally the hopper itself has cracked. We clear it, run water through to prove it, and tell you honestly which of the three it was.
Is cast iron guttering worth repairing?
Usually. The iron itself is rarely the thing that has failed. Joints, fixings and paint all can be put right in position, and a run treated properly has decades in it. We only recommend replacing a length that has actually cracked through.
How long does it take, and do you need a scaffold?
A repair to a run and its fixings is often a day off a tower or a ladder. A full renewal on a taller elevation takes longer and wants a proper platform, which is a separate line on the quote. We will tell you which it is on the site visit rather than after we arrive.
Can you piece in part of a fascia rather than replace it all?
Where the rest of the board is sound, yes, and on an older property it is often the better answer. It keeps the original timber, it costs less, and it avoids any question about changing the look of the building.
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Get a price for your Tarrant Monkton roofline
Tell us the address and what you have noticed. We will get to the eaves, work out what the building actually needs, and put an itemised price in writing at no charge.
